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Everything posted by Petrol

  1. Thanks for the feedback everyone Whilst processing is subjective, I think I may have gone overboard a bit on this one! Guess I don’t know when to stop The LP is pretty bad here, particularly to my south. I tried a few filters but they didn’t seem to do much. Then I bought Steve’s book and on his recommendation, bought a Hutech Idas which did the trick for me. Something you know very little about Olly, you lucky chap! One of my ambitions in life is to see the Milky Way. It’s dissapointing that such a wonder of nature is taken away from many Again thanks for the comments and clear skies! Pete
  2. It's been 2 months since I had clear skies! SW 200P Atik 314L+ OSC 20 lights @ 300s Darks Flats Guided on EQ6 Thanks for looking Pete
  3. Nice gates! Impressive craftsmanship As for pouring concrete / laying bricks – Bricks have frogs (that’s the hole / recess in them) This allows the mortar to key and prevents lateral movement. Allowing the mortar to dry and laying courses on top does not weaken the structure. Pouring a pier in two sessions does weaken it mainly because the first pour is left flat; it just flows out with gravity. The second pour has little to key to From my understanding the best budget pier is concrete in a plastic tube with rebar. I also used a scaffolding pole in mine. Since this is a combination of plastic / steel / concrete, it offers the best solution. Composite construction is often the strongest. I like the brick pier a lot. Blends in to the garden, easy and not expensive to build. Also not a nightmare to get rid of if you move. Anything is better than a tripod and personally, I can’t see the brick edges being a problem. Good job
  4. Pics are now back up of the finished job
  5. Thank you for your replies Derek, the increase in imaging time is significant. Rather than thinking, “better pack up now because it’s going to take me ages to unplug and lug the gear in” I can relax knowing that it’s a breeze to pack up. The other thing is, I rolled the cover off the other night and got only 3 subs before the clouds rolled in. No big deal, I parked the scope and packed up in no time at all. Olly, thanks for the comments. With the processing, I used to use curves for the initial stretch but now use levels. I only use curves for bringing out specific areas of the image and it helps prevent highlights blowing out. Fitted gym mat to the floor Also fitted some spare track to stick on the draught excluder This piece of laminate flooring provides the seal. Also note the shoot bolts, this will prevent the shed buckling in very high winds or if ever there’s a significant amount of snow on it Cut some foam to make some shelves for accessories I have also painted the inside of the shed with a 1:10 dilution of PVA glue. This is to help reduce dust off the timber and polystyrene Thanks for looking Pete
  6. First light, Iris Nebula. All comments welcome 200P Atik 314L+ Colour ST 80 / QYH5 / PHD Guided 36 Lights @ 300s 20 Darks Flats with EL panel Also stained the roll off
  7. No it's not sealed. Since the DPC / timber joist is covered by the obsy, it won't get wet from above. My concern in your case was quite a bit of DPC sticking out and water running along the DPC and into the joist. The purpose of a DPC is to stop moisture rising from the ground. Bit of theory that might shed some light on it. Timber only rots when the water stagnates. If you throw a piece of wood into the sea it won't rot. Drive a wooden stake into the ground and it will. Just try to keep the load bearing timbers dry Tanalised timber makes a huge difference though and if you are doing what others have, you will be OK. Hope that helped Best, Pete
  8. Chris, that's one one tall pier! Are you imaging or observing?
  9. Hi Chris, Great progress so far. I hope you don't mind me saying that if I were you, I would cut back the excess DPC between the pad stones and the joists. If the DPC overhangs the obsy, water will wick up the joists and they will rot. Preservative is great but timber cannot stand being wet for long. Whilst my roll off is tiny compared to your project, the same principles apply. This is how I fitted my DPC between the joists and the pad stones. Just a minor point but a few minutes trimming back now could save you problems later. Regards, Pete
  10. It's all red, white and blue Need I say anymore? Sorry spaceboy I didn't answer your question about the track. The exposed part of it is removable so I can protect it from the elements. A bonus is that it looks like a regular shed
  11. Thanks for the feedback, looks like I am on the right track (no pun intended) with it then but it's not been the easiest thing I've ever built. I guess the fully hinged door made it more of a challenge. To be honest, I thought I would have to get some steel in there to make it rigid enough. Steel is heavy though and would put extra load on the rollers. The timber diagonal braces to the roof sorted it though. I'm not the best with words so here are some more pics All wired up and fitted the scope for a trial run Connector panel Thanks for looking and much more to follow Pete
  12. Your welcome Auntystatic. I have a vid of the roll off but can't seem to embed it. Linkerty linkson Pete
  13. Yes Spaceboy, 10 degrees Thanks rfdesigner, I will look into a humidity controlled fan Hope this helps Auntystatic. I did this to lower the c of g and reduce the height of the roll off
  14. Door had to be in one, double doors were not an option. It's sorted now. I'll post a vid up when I get chance. The guidescope is just attached to the bottom of the 200P scope rings. I can post a pic up if you want. The roof covering on any roll off is a difficult choice. It has to be lightweight, capable of withstanding flexture, last and look good. Roof tiles are probably the longest lasting roofing solution but they don't interlock properly. This would result in tiles moving. They are also very heavy, typically 50kg / Sq M. Think I have found the ideal solution. These are Envirotile interlocking roof tiles. They weigh in at 9Kg / Sq M They lock together like this The rows also lock together offering a maximum strength. The result is that they won't move with vibration First job was to cover the roof with breathable under felt Then lay the tiles. Since they lock together it's easy. I have never tiled a roof before The result
  15. The door is quite wide - 1.2M which was creating an awful lot of leverage on the hinge side of the roll off. As a result the whole frame was twisting so I had to beef things up a bit Double thickness brace here Also tied into the roof purlins (I think that's what they are called but I know little about roofing) This made the frame rigid so on went the door. Note the 60 X 40mm thick timber for support at the hinge end, and the lightweight roofing battens at the other to reduce the load Roof insulation fitted Pic inside Thanks for looking Pete
  16. It will but I can always switch it off the day before if there’s even a hint of clear skies. I have also thought of opening the door and using a fan to reduce cool down times. The only reason I’m heating it to prevent any damp or condensation forming on the kit.
  17. The roll off will be heated to prevent condensation. I will fit a wireless RH & temp gauge and use this website for optimum / least cost setting. http://www.dpcalc.org/ I'm guessing around 10C should do it. The better the insulation, the less it will cost to heat. Another good reason for a small unit This is the insulation I have chosen for the roof and walls. It's higher density than the stuff I used under the floor and less likely to be damaged. It can also be cut with a jigsaw. Best bet is not to force the saw. Let the blade cut and this is the result About half done with the insulation Thanks for looking Pete
  18. Thanks for the comments, one obsy build is enough though Got the tanalised cladding on. I went for the thinner 12mm stuff to save weight Roof braces at door end Hinges on Checking clearance for door Just a do Tracks come through side, rough cut the cladding High density foam pads Cut and fitted. This should stop water tracking inside
  19. The door is a bit tricky, the plan is to use tanalised shiplap over a frame. Long story but I had to laminate an edging for the door. As you can see the hinges are right on the edge of the join Used no nails to laminate it together Block of wood to ensure it’s square This is the main part, big block of wood screwed to the outside of the roll off. This offers a big offset to enable the door to clear the base All will be clear when I post up a vid of it
  20. Screwed the frame on Wood frame screwed to top. I have something a bit special planned for the roof, I’m not sure exactly how it’s going to work out yet but I can always screw some blocks on to increase the overhang on the sides Then it jack-knifed Well it’s a bit tight to the fence so I tipped it on its side to get the visqueen vapor barrier on. No joins, one piece did 3 sides. Nailed on with galvanized clout nails Checked for clearance, 200p Megrez Waterproof for now. I don’t trust the met office with their forecast, it was suppose to rain all day today More soon, Thanks for looking Pete
  21. Built the frames tonight using 60 X 30 PAR timber. Screwed it all together with 4 X 75mm Deck screws. 3X 100mm solid brass hinges for the door. These are pretty big but there will be a fair bit of load on them Have to say these really are “silky smooth” probably due to the washered design. I got them from B&Q, they sell loads of hinges and it’s hard to sort the good from the bad but if anyone wants some the packet looks like this
  22. Thanks for the feedback More done today Brackets to hold the base secure Fitted a foam collar around the pier base, this is more for insulation than movement isolation. Measured and cut to size Double sided tape on the back Fitted Underfloor insulation – I cut the polystyrene sheets slightly too big and used a board to fit them Cut them with this serrated knife Complete The foam around the pier base made the floor easier to cut Floor fitted Fitted the mount Trail fit with my biggest scope to check for clearance Rain is forecast so I used my trailer tent cover Thanks for looking Pete
  23. Sprayed the metallic blue today Plates Synscan bracket Damp proof course on base support Base trim sealed with silicon Fitting like this avoids unsightly end grain Test run
  24. Hi Olly, coming from you that means an awful lot to me. I often look at your pics in awe I did know there is no need to level the mount as I read it in one of your posts I can’t however fathom out how to use just one plate. The problem is that this tube would have to be inside the pier. Also the distance between the threaded bar inside the pier is less than the diameter of the EQ6 base. This would cause the bolts to foul. I did consider using only 1 plate but came to the conclusion that the diameter of the pier would have to be huge in order to accommodate this arrangement. I might be missing something simple though The weak point as far as I can see are the 4 threaded bars that go into the pier. I am planning on spraying the plates then filling this void with resin and setting the bottom plate on it before it cures. I assume this will improve rigidity? I don’t intend leveling the mount properly, which is why I went for the 6 bolt mounting between the plates. Rigid over level. As far as progress goes, I have cut the wooden blocks to go between the concrete pads and the main joists. I will fit a DPC (Damp proof course) to these but for added protection, I am soaking them in preservative My main concern is how to fit the door; no idea what to do :icon_scratch:Tomorrow is spraying day. I know how to do that so an easy day Thanks for looking, Pete
  25. The wheels are from a second hand video dolly (tracking) system I bought some time ago but never used. Other than that, I know nothing about it. I do however have quite a bit of spare track if anyone wants it. I’m sure it would be fairly easy for someone with a lathe to make some nylon wheels. Blank pier plate from Astrotec has arrived. Have to say I am very impressed Fitted the EQ6, this is better than my original plan of 2 plates and an adapter on the top plate Pete
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