teoria_del_big_bang

And a zoom in to show all points are same center Steve

Gina, The STL looks right to me checking it in 3D-Tool Above checks the 3mm hole (which is actually 3.4 mm), the inner diameter at R15 and the outer diameter at R57 and the center of those are all in the same place. Below shows the inner gear at R13,5 and again its center is exactly in same place as above. And finally the outer diameter of the escape mechanism at R70.5 again shows the center to be in same place as all other dimensions. Steve

No, very true I do the same and doesn't take long really, so just me being lazy but would have been nice just to leave it all going whilst I get off to bed, or off to work if scope had been imaging right through till morning (not done that for a while as scared of rain or snow at some point) taking flats for all filters used instead of having to adjust brightness in between some of the filters. But yes you are right not really a hardship. Cheers Steve

Was that the 150 version or the 120 version ? TBH that was my suspicion. It was really just the ability to set brightness in software that makes it a great idea, I guess I will just continue for now with my Aurora Flatfield Panel. Steve

Anyone using this bigger version of the FlatMaster 120 yet ? A while back I quite fancied the 120 version. They seemed great as they are not over expensive and you can set the brightness via software for different filters. This would be really helpful as the usual issue with LED panels is that ideally they need very different brightness levels for LRGB compared to NB and need to be brighter again for ultra NB, otherwise exposure times for LRGB can be ridiculously short or for ultra NB ridiculously long. Being able to set brightness levels for each filter and leave the software to take all your flats at the correct brightness would be great. However, when I read a review that basically said it was great for LRGB but exposure times for the ultra NB filters was over 2 minutes even at full brightness I decided not to get one. Now the 150 model (and a 250) is available I emailed Pegasus and they said it is considerably brighter, so might be interested in this but by the sound of it it needs to be over twice as bright and difficult to get this out of them, although I could reply and ask how long for say a 3Nm Ha filter at 25,000 ADU or whatever and see if they have an answer. But I just wondered if these were being used by any SGL members yet. Unfortunately, I do not think there is any support in EKOS yet but probably would come if they become popular. But even though I am currently using KStars to install APT, which does have control of it in its flats aid, is not an issue. Pegasus Flatmaster Steve

Beautiful and enthralling. 🙂 Steve

That should be fine 🙂 Steve

Yes a terrific image 🙂 Steve

Not exactly a cheap item to lose. DHL usually pretty good and only put in safe places specified by recipient or deliver to neighbour. I hope DHL are compensating either FLO or the recipient. Steve

I messaged APM and they didn't seem very bothered just said it happens all the time and you can't stop crime. I got an automated reply from Ebay but as yet listing still there with 1 bid - could be a shill bid I suppose or some unfortunate soul that thinks their getting a bargain. Steve

I know what you mean and I guess the aim eventually is improvement on your images to the last time you imaged that target, or one thing I want to progress to is mosaics, which really do need patience on some targets to get the amount of data required and can take years if the target is only available for short periods each year. But I also think that the biggest improvement I can maybe make is, as you say, dark skies. And maybe I would get better images with a smaller more portable setup but travel a bit more. My area has some pretty dark skies if I am prepared to travel, I still have same issue with weather but at least the few clear nights I get, if I am fully retired, could be used much better if I can easily put my gear in the car and off I go at the drop of a hat. Advantage for me is that I would not have to get up for work so could sleep later. And, apart from keeping something like a HEQ5 mount and smaller scope all the heavier and more expensive items could go and still get some good data. Steve

APM also have it listed on Ebay for the realistic price so Ebay will know for sure it is a scam. I have reported it to Ebay but would help if others also report it. APM Listing on Ebay Steve

Please send me the measurements and happy to work with you as I will try my best but because I do not have the TP Link or ASIAir then there is a chance the first ones I print are either a little tight or loose and may need a second print to get it just right. But I am not out to make money and basically if you cover the cost of postage and maybe a couple of quid for the plastic used I am fine so probably looking at £5 to £8 or there abouts. Hopefully we can get it right first time but if not then as I said I will work with you, I quite like these little projects. See if you can get it all to work when the TP link arrives and let me know if you want to give it a go. Steve

A difficult one. I love the hobby and things worked out just about right for me in that I had built up to a reasonable imaging setup just before retirement last April, so bought when I was earning the money (Still working part time but due for full retirement soon). But had very few totally clear night sessions last year due to weather, and as mentioned above, all has been NB because ALL (really ALL) the clear nights had near to full moon. If I was rich then without doubt I would keep the gear (and get better gear) whether I used it regularly or not, but I often think is it worth having £5K+ worth of gear for the handful of sessions I get each year. At the moment I keep onto the idea in retirement I will get my obsy which helps tremendously with being able to either squeeze an hour here and there if skies clear rather than dragging all my gear out of the garage just for the clouds to roll in again. Only issue I have there is that we also plan to downsize house so also been holding off till we move and of course house hinting not easy because I want somewhere with pretty dark skies and the least LP. So all in all its a hobby I love but sometime wonder if the worry and headaches that go with it are worth it, but for now I think it is - besides I would be in tears selling my setup for probably half what I paid and knowing I am not upgrading to something better. Over 10 years ago I gave up carp fishing and had a few K's of gear then for all the over-nighters and also 3 high spec rods, reels, bite alarms etc. I was going to sell up but couldn't bear to part with it so it all got stored in garage. Then got back into it and really glad I kept the gear (Initially), trouble was after a few sessions I saw all the new gear available and wanted it and of course bought it. I think I would be the same with the astro stuff so if I gave up for an extended period and if I stored it then years later would want the latest camera and probably a new scope. Mount I probably would be happy with. Steve

Astro Photography on a tight budget is not easy but many have been very successful. I am not sure if astro things down under are more expensive than UK so not sure how far that will stretch. Your top limit equates to around £850 which without the camera would give you a good start. Personally I would spend a good 2/3rds on the mount (you need a stable tracking mount) if you can which here would get you a 2nd hand HEQ5 (around £500) which is a perfect start and if looked after many go no further than them HEQ5. Only reason I did was because the weight got a little too much for it otherwise I was perfectly happy with it. That leaves around £350 which would get you an ED80. However, I suspect prices in Austrailia will be higher that UK so maybe not possible and in that case as @JSeaman suggests I would use your available budget just on the mount and go for a HEQ5 / NEQ6 or similar and as said that would be a really good platform for AP, use what you currently have to start and get some images then save for the scope and other bits to add later. So with your DSLR that gets you going and with a well polar aligned mount you should get pretty good 3 min subs without any major star trails. I had a similar setup for at least a year before moving into guiding and a dedicated astro camera. The, again personal preference save up a bit and try to get a guide scope and guide cam, if available 2nd hand then in UL this would be around £150, no need for a dedicated camera to take some great images. Now with the guide camera you will be able to take subs of 5 to 10 minutes easily. Steve

I agree that NB filters, particularly Ha are a Godsend in near full moon conditions. I also agree that that is a great image, I would be more than pleased with that 🙂 Steve

Ha Ha no not at that price. I bet they wish you would cancel as it probably costs that in postage (or more). Steve

Is that for the printed version ? If so that is an absolute bargain 🙂 Steve

My initial idea is as below. The red is the ASIAir-Pro and the purple is the TP-Link. The pink bit screws to the grey bit sandwiching the TP-Link and if it works the two pieces with the TP-Link then push into place in the green part that is attached to the ASIAir. I should just push and click into lace, no screws required. Steve

I have some thoughts but a nice glass of red helps me to think so will have a go tonight and tomorrow night and see what you think. The dimensions of bot will be a help, I think I sort of know what they are but always good to have confirmations 🙂 Steve

Is it definitely this TP Link ? TP-Link AC750 And it it the ASIair Pro ? If so I will have a bit of a go at re-designing a better holder if you wish, no commitment, just to see if I can do better. Issues I have is I do not have either of the above to test it but should be able to get the dimensions from somewhere. Steve

If it is an odd adapter or item like the Thingiverse one then you can PM me and if I am able I will print for you. I can even design and make the necessary files myself. I must admit I am not too keen on the design in the Thingiverse link looks a bit awkward to put together. Is that exactly what you want to do mount that exact TP link on top of the Asair Pro? Steve

Yes well not meant to be clear here tonight so might actually get my shelves with my gear on sorted so I actually know where things are. Steve

No problem,glad to help, I owe it all to @SMF who helped me so much building mine 🙂 That's the general idea of this forum, and how thankful I have been many times 🙂 Steve

First under the Hood:- I Did say it wasn't very neat - I am ashamed of myself and will probably re-do it at some stage 🙂 I printed a plastic strip that I put two M5 vee head screws through to make some terminals to connect all the +ive and -ive wires to but not really necessary if you solder wires rather than use spade conectors. From the top - before I re positioned the volt meter / ammeter which like a numpty was positioned under the strap that holds it altogether. And the circuit diagram that hopefully makes it look easier than the rat's nest shown above 🙂 PartsList: Need 5 rocker switches - I found that ordering 10 was just as cheap as getting 5. Need 4 connectors - 2 pin GX 16 panel mount These are what I used BUT the box is quite thick and although I managed to get the nut on and just about tight enough to stop the plugs turning when attaching lead if I did it again I would order these Square Flange Plugs Volt Meter / Ammeter This is not the one I actually used but looks a lot shorter and will be easier to mount in the space. Various spade connectors Red 4.8 mm Blue 4.8mm Red 6.3mm Blue 6.3m You need a crimping tool for these but you can solder the wires instead so would not need any crimps at all. Hope this helps Steve