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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. Stopped making it? Thats a shame.... well, I suppose there would be the QHY equivalent if youre stuck for finding one.
  2. Being as galaxy season is here, I've switched to the ASI178 Cool, which turns the 130 into something of a galaxy hoover Leo Quartet - ARP316 (usually overlooked for the triplet), 30x180 - only darks applied. Needs probably 100+ subs and proper calibration to make it decent:
  3. Guiding tonite!

    1. Ibbo!


      Too much cloud here- taking darks instead


    2. Uranium235


      Got a couple of hours in last night, not a great sky - but worthy for some testing.

  4. Good idea to rotate the light source. But if anyone is using a laptop or monitor for flats, it's worth making sure that it is square on to the OTA. Purely because computer displays don't do so well off axis (like trying to view a monitor from an angle isn't as good as being directly in front of it).
  5. 80ED or 130pds? Hmm, ive had both. 130pds: Bang for buck, faster (f5), cheap, but may require user improvements or mods. 80ED: Ease of use, slower (f6.35 with 0.85x), nearly double the price with reducer, requires very little in the way of tweaks (usually the focuser tension).
  6. Entry level canon and EOS utility (with a netbook or laptop) is cheap and effective. Plus canon cameras have a much wider support base in the astro community (regarding software and modifications).
  7. Why not use a more dedicated remote utility? Something like teamviewer or tightVNC? That would solve your problems in a single stroke
  8. I use registar for the same thing. Though it's sensible to use a colour sensor that's larger than your mono (so no mono data is wasted). It's also possible to combine different focal lengths and telescope types. This is data taken using a star 71 (widefield) and a 200pds and 130pds (newtonian) for high res details:
  9. 80min on the Jellyfish, between rain showers last weekend:
  10. So far its a negative, though Ive since found a different way to connect it - but I wont be able to try that out until tomorrow.
  11. Oh, for a quick check I just used a cheshire inserted at the other end of the self centreing adaptor and the crosshairs indicate that the middle of the lens is indeed central.
  12. Yeah, there are the manufacturing tolerances - it could be way off, but if works it will be one of the all-time top bargains! I will double check it with a cheshire to see if it got close.
  13. Cheers, cant do it until the kids are in bed otherwise there would be just too many "little hands" touching things they shouldnt...lol.
  14. I was idly browsing the internet a couple of hours ago when I stumbled across this: https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-high-resolution-webcam/p/0460186 That particular camera looked almost as if it was a good fit for a 1.25" EP holder, so after work I popped out and grabbed one for the glorious price of just 8 qui!d! So once I got home I opened the packaging and the front lip of the focusing ring *just* about fits into a 1.25" ep holder (with no wiggle), but not far enough for the thumb screws to lock it into position..... sooo looking around in the bits box I found a self-centreing EP adaptor, which when fully unwound allows you to fit it in by a few mm. All I had to do then was apply a little downward pressure whilst tightening up the adaptor and bingo.... it stayed put. It works straight off wiith sharpcap (under W10) and looks like it will do a decent job of centreing a secondary mirror, maybe good enough for total collimation. I wont know until I try it later this evening.... but for 8 quid its worth a punt! I might use Al's reticle though, because the one in sharpcap cant be configured (I want the drawtube to stay in its imaging position while collimating).
  15. Remarkably, there has been a good run of clear skies which coincided with the nights I havent been working (or too tired...lol) so time to have a tinker with the 130pds being as that will be my main imaging scope for the next few months. Good thing I took it apart as the secondary was filthy, gave that a quick wash before putting it all back together with the milk bottle washer mod. I knew this might be my only chance at an image for a bit, so I just left everything at 2x2 bin to make the most of limited time and still get an acceptable image. Could do better with more time, but aint that always the case! Also there were some stacking and calibration issues so I had to crop a bit of it, I think the OIII data needs its own set of flats (I applied Ha flats to all filters). 130pds, NEQ6, 683WSG 25x450 (Ha), 10x450 (SII_R, Ha_G, OIII_B) Thanks for looking
  16. Still working on this but its looking promising, even with absolutely no calibration frames:
  17. With a big telescope (625mm aperture), a barlow, and: This, for building the video: http://www.spaceyes.com/en/products/spaceyes3d-builder.html And this, for importing NASA geographical data: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QGIS
  18. Quite right, the camera is trying to image past what the actual optics can resolve with a 65mm aperture. Its much better suited to the 130pds - being just slightly oversampled, and you have 20MP to play with, so its quite possible to bin the image. Though if im not mistaken - its not true hardware binning with CMOS so the same effect can be achieved just by resizing with software.... which is handy becuase instead of cutting it to 5MP (as you would with 2x2bin), you could reduce by 0.5 instead and have a 10mp image to process.... which is still pretty big! Though the image is a good example of both what the telescope and camera can achieve. Just wait until galaxy season swings around, you can have some serious fun with the 130/183 combo
  19. Grabbed a test image of M42 after the double cluster. Its just 18min per channel as it was in the process of disappearing behind the fence...lol 6x180s (R,G,B)
  20. I might add that Im going to do the milkbottle washer mod for my secondary, I feel there is a little bit of rotation - perhaps indicated by the off centre illumination im getting in my flats (which is slightly shifted to the right). The degree of adjustment required is small - hence the mod because it allows for very fine adjustments.
  21. Welcome aboard If youre waiting for a clear night, you can normally bank on it being on the night of a full Moon I think the sky does that sometimes just to rub it in.. "fine here you go, a night with no clouds - but im going to stick a really bright thing in the sky to blot everything else out"...lol.
  22. Mine is the combined cheshire/sight tube. If its a bit wobbly, then you could use a self centreing EP adaptor - but even those have a small degree of inaccuracy. You could also wrap a single layer of tape around the cheshire EP, thats another way to make the fit bit more snug. As long as your secondary is at the correct angle (appears round) and directly under the sight tube, then just follow the normal collimation steps.
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