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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. If you live in London, then its going to be narrowband imaging only im afraid (if you want any hope of a good image). Keep the star adventurer, buy a fast lens (eg: like the samyang detailed above), a lightweight cooled CMOS camera + some filters. Should come to less than your budget. Edit: Just need to add that your choice of camera needs to be mono
  2. The SW 0.9x will be problematic when you point it at anything bright. Try taking an image of M45 with it and you will soon find out Remember, the review posted earlier is based on using an F4 newt - which will always be next to impossible to get flat over a 22mm diagonal for your average imager. However when you apply something like the Baader to an f5 130pds, the results are much more consistent. Its entirely possible to (just about) get round stars over a KAF8300 using the Baader MkIII (example below)
  3. A bit of late night Ha imaging NGC6820 Just 90min, I'll pick this up again in a few weeks when I wont have to wait so late for it to clear the tree.
  4. A bit of messing around for an hour last night (LRGB) :
  5. Astonishing photos... I had the same issue with a 200pds, great replacement focuser - rubbish baseplate. So I designed my own as you did, but I had it 3D printed instead. When designing, have a think about how it will all attach to the tube. Might be worth uprating the bolts to M5, and where the nut goes on the inside - a flexible placstic washer or something simlilar to spead the contact area of the nut out a bit more (flat nut on a curved surface is never good).
  6. By killing all star colour in Ps: Filter > Noise > Reduce noise Strength: 10 Preserve detail: 10 Colour noise reduction: 10 Sharpening: 0 You can either apply that to the whole image, or on a star selection only.
  7. Here is the (stretched) master flat taken with that panel, looks fairly normal... apart from the excessive amount of motes...lol
  8. Depends on whether your camera has a shutter or not. The QSI does (as is usual for KAF8300), so I usually give it at least 3 seconds per flat - hence the need to dim sufficiently
  9. When it turns up, you will notice it has a grid pattern on the illuminated side. That will disappear once you put a few sheets of A4 on it - you probably need about 3 or 4 sheets to dim it sufficiently enough for lum flats on its lowest setting. For narrowband just hit the power key once or twice to increase the brightness (you have three levels). It runs fine for ages from a small powerbank
  10. This is it mate https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Adjustable-3-Levels-Brightness-Animation/dp/B07GSVB7RR
  11. More than one way to skin a cat on this one, personally I would create a fake background (with fake noise) and bursh it in with a layer mask - blend mode ligthen (so the stars dont get touched). Takes practice, but it can rescue a project from the bin.
  12. FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon: I then created a protective cover and OTA attachment using the box it came in, and a bit of foam oh, plus 3 sheets of A4 to further dim and diffuse the light. The pic shown is with it on max brighness, I've only used the lowest setting so far on lum data. NB will probably require it to be kicked up a notch or two in brightness. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of glue and tape Probably needs a bit more tape around the edges, just to make it star party friendly.
  13. Testing the new lightbox I built tonight, it seems to produce much better flats than a monitor - runs off usb power with variable brightness, which is great Just applied it to some M106 data I took a last week, which I didnt post here because the background was a bit blotchy. Flats from a different source seem to have cleared this up somewhat.
  14. As promised Michael your colour data, plus my mono from the same subject (shot on Sunday evening): Was the colour shot with a DSLR? Feels like it becuase I had to remove quite a bit of background blotches/noise.
  15. Lockdown astrophotograhy About 3 hours in 4min subs with the ASI178 Cool
  16. Never thought I'd be saying this but.... guiding tonite! :)

  17. Quick update on my quest to collimate via a camera. Given up on the pinhole concept for now, as I spotted a super cheap 8mm CCTV lens (cs mount) that will work with either my QHY5 or 178mm camera. I can just pop that on and collimate / tinker until im blue in the face
  18. Well, I gave it a go.... Good news: I got an image at the right distance from the pinhole. Bad news: The image is not yet sharp enough to use, I was testing it on a barcode. Still too blurred, for macro (what this essentially is) the hole needs to be >tiny<
  19. Yeah, just looking ar a few examples done with a dslr. Its possible but to improve the sharpness I need to make the hole smaller. I will do a few experiments when I have a spare evening this week
  20. Just putting my thinking cap on about something - namely how to collimate this (and other newts) with the imaging camera in place. Previous thoughts about this always involved putting a short focal length lens where the filter would be... however... today I had another idea. Astro cameras are very sensitive things and can easily cope with a high f ratio. So, what about doing away with the lens concept and using a pinhole instead? It's cheap, anyone can make it, and with a few careful calculations should deliver the right focal length required for taking images of the secondary
  21. I guess if its just for the heater, you could try a lithium pack with a 12v output, maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/TalentCell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-1a4XT9/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=12v+power+bank&qid=1581114689&sr=8-7
  22. If i didnt know better, but whoever made that adaptor probably got the idea from here...lol.. I built my mod a good 4 or 5 years ago:
  23. I was pretty lucky in that mine rotated to portrait (with respect to the focuser) right at the point where the threads started to really tighten up. If it was to far before that I'd either have to come up with a different configuration - or take a chance and tighten it up as much as poss until the right camera rotation is achieved.... but the big danger with that is a cold-welded thread (never much fun to try and undo). Thats why I apply boot polish to my threads to reduce or prevent binding when doing things up fairly tight.
  24. Many apologies for the late(ish) setup for this, but (yay!) its now time for the 2019 imaging showcase!! Please use this thread to showcase your best images captured during 2019. Just one post per member but you can include up to 5 images if you want. The thread is for all imagers, both novices and advanced. Please keep details to a minimum - scope and camera possibly along with a few comments. The thread needs to be packed with images so please don't respond to the postings. The previous years showcase thread(s) can be found here: https://stargazerslou
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