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About AngryDonkey

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  1. Application settings are usually stored in folders associated to user accounts (where the logged in user can make changes). So disappearing settings could be related to that. For example if you run an app with elevated (admin) privileges, the user changes and different folders / settings are used.
  2. That's looks great! Hmm might have to get one for testing.
  3. Great stuff! Are there any sample all sky images taken with that camera?
  4. Great stuff. How does it connect to the Windows machine, Alpaca?
  5. I fail to understand why you need to bring this to attention every few weeks? You say you have no axe to grind but it seems otherwise...
  6. I'm in a similar position. I would LOVE the new mono ASI 6200 but adding the wheel and filters (yikes!) it amounts to much more than I want to spend. So on a whim I've bought a (really cheap) second hand Moravian G3-11000 for my William Optics FLT 132. The KAI 11002 is a really old sensor now and looking at the quantum efficiency graph makes me weep but you know, if I think abut the awesome field of view and the complexities of a mosaic I would have to make otherwise I think it's not a bad decision, especially for LRGB. And Moravian is developing a camera similar to the ASI6200 so hopefully I will be able to reuse the filter wheel, guide camera and filters once they become available on the seocnd hand market (I am thinking a few year ahead :-))
  7. You could also have a look at the Avalon X-Guider. It is very small and lightweight but can handle a fair bit of weight. Mine is holding my FSQ85 with flattener, focuser motor and a Moravian camera with internal filter wheel. It's not cheap though. Mike
  8. Ah ok, sorry. I assumed that Nebulosity had native support for the DMK.
  9. I haven't used it myself but I think with the Nebulosity ASCOM plugin the idea is that you start Nebulosity and connect the DMK camera to Nebulosity via the native driver. You then select the 'Nebulosity ASCOM driver' in ASPS and ASPS can take image with your DMK via Nebulosity (which is doing the actual image taking).
  10. I think it has more to do with the fact that you have more houses and trees on your image now and less of the sky which reduced the median brightness of the image significantly. For your night images it is quite normal that the median target is not reached. I would set the max exposure time to 45s and let the auto clip stretch lake care of the image brightness. If you find it is too dark then adjust the auto stretch parameters to give you a brighter image (and/or increase the gain). Great image though!
  11. The 178MC is a great all sky camera! The included lens is ok but you will get a better picture with an Arecont or Fujinon lens. I actually prefer the slightly cropped format to the full circle as it uses the sensor space much better (and I don't need to see the horizon).
  12. There is a Whitecat on ABS just now for £500.
  13. A lot of people are using the Arecont 1.55 for their all sky cameras which seems to work well. Also, it looks like either the camera or the lens is at a bit of an angle as the aberration only appears at the bottom of the image. If you get it all centred it will probably be better all round. I went for a Fujinon 1.8mm lens (which is even more expensive) and even then you get some aberration: https://www.allskeye.com/allskeye-live/ Mike
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