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About AngryDonkey

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  1. Personally I wouldn't rush into anything. It sounds like you have a fair amount of money to put towards this project (which is a great starting point!) but there are lots of options and it will certainly pay off to take some time to decide. If that implies that at sometime in the not too distant future you will be going down that road then I personally would skip the OSC camera and go straight to mono (I don't think that OSC is a 'stepping stone' to mono). Yes it is more complex in terms of how many things you need (i.e. filter wheel) and an additional device to manage when acquiring but once up and running not really such a great burden. And as has been mentioned OSC is not actually any 'quicker' in acquiring data, it's just a bit less faff. In processing terms there is also some 'evidence' that it is harder to process OSC data in comparison to mono data. If you are planning to get auto focussing up and running as well then taking flats becomes easier and doesn't necessarily have to be done at the same time as taking lights. And yes, mono will open up a lot narrowband targets. From personal experience (I image at a similar field of view) there are a lot of great narrowband targets out there for this field of view. Don't underestimate this as narrowband imaging can be done under 'worse' conditions (light pollution/moonlight) compared to normal imaging (although there are very new types of filters which somewhat mitigate this i.e. allow some narrowband imaging on OSC cameras). Maybe you have already done this but it will be worth having a good look round which software will work best for you. APT has come a long way, is well supported and intuitive but it might be lacking some features that you might (or might not) need. For example I don't think it does have 'in sequence' auto focus as yet (although it is planned at some point) which could be a problem if you are thinking of going down that road. In terms of scope and camera I think the FSQ106 really shines when you pair it with a large format camera i.e. it produces a large image circle and is one of the best scopes to do that well. However if you don't need the large image circle (because you decide to go for a smaller camera chip) then there are other good scope options for less money. Again you may have already considered this but for a dual rig you want your field of view (and possibly resolution) to be similar for both setups so it would make sense to ensure that whatever you buy would take that into account as well. Hope this helps. Personally I would probably wait with buying the FSQ106 if you already have the FSQ85. This is a great scope for astrophotography and you could get up to speed with the CCD on that first before moving onto something else (unless that scope is used for other stuff).
  2. Only found them on AliExpress. Delivery is cheap if you are happy to wait 20 to 40 days (around £4) but fairly expensive if you need faster (e.g. EMS is around £15 which they say will come in 7 to 15 days): https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Factory-IP67-USB3-0-Metal-Shielded-Plug-Mount-Socket-Waterproof-Cover-Electrical-Waterproof-Car-Audio-Vertical/3619191_32859744235.html
  3. I use them on my housing and they are pretty good quality:
  4. It's breaking the 2nd law of thermodynamics!!! We're doomed! PS: Can I build that perpetual motion machine now?
  5. Oops... It's a big minus of this very very awesome software. It's pretty hard and a lot of effort to write good cross platform software that works well on all systems (that's probably why there aren't many around). I don't think the fact that it only runs on one platform should be seen as a minus. Almost all astro applications are locked into one platform or another, it's just a decision that is made to keep things manageable.
  6. Great thanks! (In my dreams) I am actually contemplating if it might be possible to build a stationary all sky camera that would be sensitive enough to detect something that you are describing. With the prices of CMOS cameras coming down it's not entirely inconceivable that I could build an all-sky rig with multiple cameras covering all or a large portion of the sky in reasonably good resolution.... It would have to be fairly big to fit all the cameras and lenses but they wouldn't necessarily all have to be in the same housing. Of course this would need some clever image stitching to create one image but I don't think that should be a problem in this day and age. And of course a custom version of my AllSkEye software to run 11 cameras... In any case I would be very interested to see at what resolution you get good results once you have it up an running to see if this is a complete pipe dream.
  7. Hi Dean, Sorry can't help directly as I don't have an ASI120 but in general terms just start out with the standard settings and take some test shots to see what kind of results you get. From there you can work out the min and max parameters the app should use when imaging at night (and also some tests for daytime use if you are interested in that as well). I guess the most important things to figure out are: Min/Max exposure time -> most people use somewhere between 30 and 45s for max but that's very much dependent on your sky conditions. If you are thinking about daytime imaging then the min exposure time should be lowest value the camera will support. If you are using auto exposure time then you need to set a 'median target'. Again you can use the preview tab to experiment with this. The preiew tab will show you the image median value but please don't forget to turn of the stretch/clip function in the preview to get a true value for this. The minimum regulation step is also important for auto exposure. You need to set this to the range the camera can support i.e. if the camera can do micro second steps then use 1 micro second (in the app you need to enter this as 0.001ms) You can also change the gain settings. There are two values you can set, one for day, one for night. Again trial and error will help most but for daytime operation I guess the gain will have to be as low as possible. With the ASI120 it would definitely be advisable to use a bad pixel map as I think it's pretty noisy There are lots of setting so once you are up and running feel free to get in touch. The AllSkEye forum would also be a good place to ask although I think @michaelmorris is on here as well and if I remember right he has an ASI120 and might be able to chime in. One general thing about the older ASI120 models is that they are a bit prone to connection problems or 'locking up' with an 'exposure failed' message. AllSkEye tries to mitigate this but it doesn't always work. Kind Regards, Mike
  8. Yes you are probably right, shame that would have been groundbreaking .
  9. How do you know? It clearly says on the website that it works even if the polar star is obscured? Yes, although I think it also works on the southern hemisphere as long as the southern pole region is visible.
  10. You've probably seen this already but it looks like the Fujinon 1.4 combined with the ASI178 does achieve 180: https://www.astropage.nl/weather/ The ASI178MC does also provide pretty good daytime images too so you wouldn't need a second one.
  11. Just looking at similar plugs . Got these from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Multi-Socket-Plug-5A-Waterproof-IP67-Automotive-Electrical-Connector-M20-Round-9-Pin-Connector/3619191_32891816934.html they also do a waterproof USB connector if you are thinking of having a plug on the camera housing: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Factory-IP67-USB3-0-Metal-Shielded-Plug-Mount-Socket-Waterproof-Cover-Electrical-Waterproof-Car-Audio-Vertical/3619191_32859744235.html
  12. Great stuff! I have been thinking about building something like this recently so I'll be following this with interest. Please keep us updated!
  13. It certainly looks like something travelling in a straight line. My guess would be something that is flashing a light and hence no streaks just points.
  14. When i need to setup a target on the go without internet I use SkySafari on my phone to find and frame the target. Then I transfer the coordinates (and angle if needed) to SGP manually.
  15. What Olly said! For imaging I would definitely recommend the tube rings and yes my FSQ85 sits way forward on a longish Losmandy plate 'upside down' as suggested above. In terms of adapters you will probably need the aux ring and CA35. I'm not home just now but will dig it out this evening and let you know. With the CA35 you have to be careful as there are different versions (confusingly!) available. One other thing to consider is whether your scope will come with the new 1.01 flattener and if you are planning to use it. I think if you buy a new one from the dealer now the flattener will be included as standard. Here you will need to ensure the correct distance from the flattener to the CCD chip. I think I have the new Takahashi chart for the flattener at home as well and will let you know.
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