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About benzomobile

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    Como, Italia

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  1. Hello Everyone I will explain my experience about that as soon as possible ... Beppe
  2. The hole on the holder is of necessity larger as the rod, why? That's because the rod must be inclined in the best direction before it can be fixed in place. This 'trick' is essential so that the worm holder's play can be minimised. Let's see how to proceed (pics below refer to Dec axis) Degrease (alcohol or acetone are ok) both the stainless steel bushing and the bare metal area around the hole. Apply a thin layer of mixed epoxy resin all around the hole up to about one millimetre from its edges (no resin should get inside). Apply a very
  3. Penultimate episode 2) placing and adjusting the pivot. The below clip illustrate how pivot work VID_20201216_161632.mp4
  4. Hello to all, girls and boys Now it's time to deal with: Tuning and everything else ... You need: - some wooden toothpicks (yes, you read that right!) - always the same Uhu Plus resin (heaven bless it)
  5. For both BL and PE, belts & gears transmission is a pretty good solution, but 'no gear/no belt' one, i.e. the direct friction, or harmonic design (this one is very expensive!) are absolutely the best ones Beppe
  6. Hi Kathleen. In reality the backlash due to the small gears before the worm gear coupling is not so significant. On the other hand, the complicated combination of eccentricity and irregularity of those gears tends to produce a PE that is not easily correctable as it is almost unpredictable, so we cannot counterbalance it by an easy PEC algorithm. The most important backlash is that produced by the worm gear. My modification is effective in eliminating it, no matter if the large worm gear has eccentricity. This mod - as Vlaiv correctly wrote - is based on a worm gear floa
  7. Here I am again Important: after each drilling operation, remember to clean the workpieces thoroughly of all metal debris! Well, at this point we are moving on. The following material must be obtained (this is the total needed for the two axles): - two pieces of approximately 20-30mm cutted off from a brass - or stainless steel - rod with a diameter of 4mm ; - four 4mm center hole, about 10mm OD x 6mm thick drill bits limit rings with their grub locking screws (pic below left) - two helical compression springs with a wire thickness of 0.7mm, 10mm in length and 6mm out
  8. In fact, I thought a sort of similar mod could also have been applied to EQ6 mount, nd, perhaps to other types of mount
  9. Thank you my friend, It is just as you describe. What I have come up with is actually a coupling where the worm is floating. I had the very lucky intuition that this could be accomplished with a very simple modification. In particular, as you will see, what is needed is a small elicoidal spring that acts by compression. Its pressure force is very critical ...I tried 3-4 different types of worms. What I understand very clearly is that its compression has to be really light. In fact, it must not be too weak to make the mechanism ineffective, but not too strong to increase excessive
  10. Hello Terry, I was expecting this observation HEQ5 - the so-called Heavy-Duty black one, had an archaic motorization, the so-called Synta, which I modified in my own way. This is another story I'd like to tell you in the future ... I thank you
  11. Please, take it easy, you'll see everything you need when you reach the end of this story
  12. Are we all here for now? If the answer is yes, then we can move on. Now comes the most critical stage of the whole process ... Reinstall the worm on its holder and carefully reassemble the axle. Remove the motor gear. Tighten securely the three M5 holder bolts making sure that the worm can rotate smoothly and playlessy (use your thumb and index finger on the gear) (pic at side) Insert a sharp tip one M4 threading tap into the threaded hole on the middle of the convex part of the holder (obviously you have already pulled away the grub) (pic above left) Tighten the tap so as to
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