spillage

Quick fix on the connection. Those things have a huge amount of plastic around them. I would consider filling the top corner off a bit so it clears the forks. Although steppenwolf's lead looks the dogs....

I'm sure that issue 2 is the draw tube obstructing the light path. Sorry can't help with the first issue as not yet using a mono.

@Jez I really would suggest that you try out the obvious processing programs available. pixinsight and startools not sure about astroart. pixinsight is a 30 day trial and startools is unlimited but without the function to save the final image. Ask around and I am sure someone will be able to provide you with the data need to try processing. This will not only help you decide what software will suit you but also if you prefer mono or osc. You can then make you mind up using advice here and experience of using the end data. Of course the cost of each may also be a factor.

You are not the only one in this dilemma. I have been using my canon dslr's for while now and would like to take the plunge into the money pit whirlpool of a dedicated camera. I think osd will be easier but I think after a while I would be wanting a mono and start to regret buying the osd. I also think to get the best out of it you will need a permanent pier for your mount to help go back on a different night to collect more data and just cannot see myself trying lrgb over several nights having to setup up polar align and take down every time. Although I must admit that I have given up at the moment with the dslr until my pier is complete.

No not at as this would have been present in a stock unit and you are just clearing a path for the light and not actually moving parts. It also allows for you to use the scope for visual.

Sorry it is a bit late but though I would post photos showing the focus tube improvement/upgrade to increase photon collection. I hope it helps. Cheers Spill

If I get 5 mins I will post a photo of my focuser. I think a dremel type tool would make things easier.

You can cut a wide slot out the the focus tube from front to back and this allows full movement of the focus tube and is less restrictive.

I would use araldite or poxy resin. Think that would stop any movement.

Would there not be a good size overlap incorporated into it when shut? There should also be a small gap between the two parts and I would consider a bead of silicone sealer and or adding a folded return on the edge of the inner panel to stop the wet and allowing it to run down and out. @akb beat me to it....

I can only add that you us a eqdir and allow phd to drift align until the graph starts moving along. I find that until the graph starts moving my pa will not settle down.

I think you have to accept that the 500d is not £1000 ccd camera so it will not ever beat those ccd images. But with enough data I get good results (for now). It's just a case of being happy with the kit you have and the results it gives you. At the moment I am sure other things are effecting my results ie mount balance, PA, PHD settings. All of this even before I sit down and try to process the data. All in good time and some of the guys/gals on here have been at this game for a long time so do not get too disheartened if your not up to their standards. I have had startools for a while but only now am I realizing the little extra things in it and the power of using the mask. I know pixinsight has more followers but I think that it is very linear in its use. I really like the way you can choose your own route that suites you in st.

try using the lens feature in st. It will remove some of your coma. I also find when adjusting the color if you click on the roi it should after a few click mask out the galaxy/nebula fairly well. You can then adjust only this and then invert the mask to adjust the image outside the roi. I an not sure how you do things but I always bin my images from my 500d by 50% then use lens then autodev and wipe...etc. I am still learning but maybe one day I will get there. I also find it hard to know if its rubbish data or just my processing skills but I am sure over time both will improve. Cheers Spill.

Hi Geoff, The eqdirect lead allows you to remove the handset from the setup. This means less leads. You can then use a bluetooth controller playstaion/xbox via eqmod to control the mount if needed. This is the lead here and here is some info on its use (the is further down the page).

i have tried several time and use the st80 and qhy5 mono. I just can get it to pick up enough stars. Will keep trying but for now an using php2 drift align.

Glad you resolved it. I was reading the post and was going to mention this as I still forget this from time to time. You might find cdc much better than stellarium. It may seem hard work to start off with but its so worth putting in the effort. I would also like to mention that you do not need to set up anything on the handset (not sure if you do) just pc direct.

I was under the impression on a post I read a while a go on here that the ir filter will filter out unwanted ir whilst allowing wanted ir onto the sensor. Sure it also mentioned it helps with processing the image. Maybe it was because it lets all the Ha pass but reduces the ir.

Thanks for all the info provided. I think I will stick with 2" filters and for now will just get a uv/ir filter and in the future if/when I ditch the dslr for ccd then slowly purchase nb filters. Can I ask if anyone has or tried or even compared the more expensive uv/ir filters compared to the £15 chinese ones available on ebay. Will I really notice a difference when using a cheap one with my dslr.

Thanks all for you advice. I will look around for a coma corrector to come up for sale first then look towards buying 2" filters at a later date. Cheers Spill.

Hi All, I currently have a canon dslr and now looking at either purchasing a coma corrector for my 150pds or some filters. I am sure I would be better off with standard filters rather than clip in. Am I right in thinking that most ccd cameras use 1.25 filters. I only ask because I am not sure if buying 2" filters would be a good choice. I am just thinking of a possible future upgrade to a ccd and dont want to waste money on 2" filters to have to then go and buy 1.25 ones. Is there going to be any difference using 2" over 1.25" with a dslr. Cheers Spill.

That why we should all have duct tape in our cars..I find taping large stones to your mount resolve this one...

Or the large notice above the extension lead plug marked "DO NOT UNPLUG OR TURN OFF!!!" is clearly and securely in place. I must admit it make me slightly tired just reading that list but good effort.

Do you not click on the brain icon and in advacned setup change the dec guide mode in the top right?

Most are 1.25" and some come with a 2" adapter. As long as everything is secure it will be fine.