spillage

@RolandKol Nice round stars. What type of corrector are you using. I have constantly had tilt and distance issues using the baader mk111.

Most hard drives these days are at least 160gb. I am also sure that the mint setup comes with gimp installed. On the subject of install space and windows vs linux then linux will win hands down as it uses much less space than windows. 

In the UK I have installed a standard pc in the garden sat inside a homemade wooden box. It sits just off the ground and has been running for over 6is months without issues.

I plan on using an old laptop to install linux and give ekos/indi a go and see if I like it, then maybe change my entire astro system over to linux.

33 minutes ago, alacant said:

1 hour ago, spillage said:

 

And then the added complication of where you are gonna put the files from your ap sessions

The same place you would with windows. With linux they state install should be 9gb vs windows who state 20gb.

The thing to take into account is that whilst linux has advantages it also has some disadvantages compared to win o/s. You have to decide if its worth it but also give it a fair go. It took me a few years to settle with linux as everytime I tried it I found myself giving up. I have overcome these issue mainly due to the software developing more each time I tried.

Not very much space at all. With Mint which is a version of Debian (ubuntu) the recommended disc size is 9gb but 20gb is recommended.

I would just like to add that I have been running Mint for maybe 10 years now on my main home pc. Why have I kept it? Reliability, in this whole time I have only ever had to reinstall it twice and both times it was due to user error. I know I can turn on the pc and use it.

Have a look here for instructions on how to make a bootable usb stick. This will work from ubuntu and mint.

I am sure that is you run it from the usb in live version then you may have issues connecting via wifi. This is normally resolved when it is properly installed.

I have found that linux can be a bit of a steep climb to get things up and running and not just click and go like windows. The main thing to consider is that once its up and running you never need to do anything else and it will probably run for years untouched.

I hate using windows and the last update screwed up loads of drivers for me and this cost a day to put it all right.

You need to ask yourself if spending so time spent to have reliability is worth it.

I am sure GIMP is just as effective a PS but I do find very little in the way of guides for GIMP but I guess its just a case of not being as popular.

Currently I have a new pc to install at home for day to day use but will be looking at installing it with indi/kstars and see how it goes. If I like it I will swap it over with the one running my astro kit and then be microsoft free.

I have just made a  wooden frame that just covers my mount and largest scopes. This is clad in waterproof roofing felt and one end has a velcro flap top to bottom

I just pull back the velcro flat, tip back the frame and I am ready to go. I do use bungee cords to secure the frame to the pier to stop it moving.

Not very pretty but does the job I need it to do.

Just had a text from the other half that this has arrived. App the adapter was for an eq3 which should be the same as the eq5 which should fit the neq6....well fingers crossed anyway. But as it was a bargain I am not too worried.

On 13/07/2018 at 11:31, pipnina said:

On a side note, has anyone else found the 130-PDS prone to stray light? In an image I took recently I noticed a gradient in the image that seemed too "sharp" to be vignetting or sky gradients. (The glowing pale lobe to the left hand side)

Are there measures that can be taken to prevent this?

Hi

Wilko do a cheap self-adhesive felt that you can use to flock the scope and also placing thick card on the rear mirror helps with light leak.

Mark.

I do not use an oag (yet) but could the mirror be too far up. No really sure on aligning the oag but do you no have a threaded ring you can add to lock it off in the position you need. 

I would agree with @Stub Mandrel the belt mod will remove allot of the mechanical issue from the mount and spending some time with drift align will iron out the PA. The polemaster will only improve your PA and the original mechs will still give you the same issue even after adjustment.

I would also bear in mind that the belt mod is about 1/3 of the price of the polemaster.

Mark.

I think to be really honest the best you can get is round stars..

I can spend many many hours drift aligning, balancing fiddling with phd. I have managed to get down to .40" but average .50" - .75"ish but at the end of the day its the images I produce that are important not the numbers.

Still considering trading up my old qhy5 as I am convinced this would help bring the numbers down.

Mark.

You can use a small steel plate and fix this to the main part of the mount (in front of the lug). I used expoy resin behind it, this will mean the bolt will not have to go in as far and lessen the angle of contact.

Mark.

8 hours ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

Collimation is something ive never been very good at

Have you made sure that the focuser is aligned (if this was removed).

Mark.

Looks like a good time to install the belt mod??

You might find if you regrease the larger bearings that they will be okay and just replace the worm bearings. If you use astrobaby's hypertune sectioin (not sure if its on the heq5 but is on the neq6 section) then you will know what thickness of teflon to order. I also found if you do not have the washer on the top of the brass worm gear then the axis will be too tight as the outer collar can rub against the mount.

ps I have asked about teflon washers here before in the wanted section and a very kind member sent me a few for free. I should have some hanging around. If you let me know what sizes you need I can try to find them and you can have them foc if I have the ones you need.

Work in progress. Lots of issue with flats and focus was out. Tried to remove double refraction's but this has caused an issue in M43. Also tried star reduction but this caused the middle of loads of stars being removed but not the outer, so looks like loads on donuts. But though I would still post it. 

1 hour ago, mikey2000 said:

How do I measure the ADU to so I can go for 25000

In apt you can set this using the flat assistant in tools. Just tell it the adu level and which filters to use. It will run and then add an new flats setting (under the light settings in the camera tab). I think.

sorry its called ccd flats aid. If you want it to create a plan make sure that box is ticked.

I am sure I got the material from Lidl for a few quid. Its a insulation like bubble wrap covered in a silver material taped together with some old aluminium tape I had left over from my air conditioning instillation days.

I have always made my own shields quite loose and in a slight cone shape. As long as they do not hang down too far they have not got in the way.

On 1/15/2018 at 08:47, carastro said:

Still haven't been brave enough to take my SW130PDS to an Astrocamp as still uncertain of dew control

@carastro I am sure some will say I have wasted time and money, but since wrapping my scope I have had no dew issues at all. Maybe I have been lucky or maybe it works. Please ignore my rather sad looking camping mat dew shield for the st80 (its works well).

@alacant how do you find guiding with this camera compared to the asi120?. I need to replace my old qhy5 and this seems very good for the money.

On 12/15/2017 at 18:21, Hertford Stargazer said:

This is what Royal Mail delivered today -

Your postman must be a giant!!! Let alone the size of your letter box.

You call it character and personality, with mine I call it...well I can't as I would probably offend some members and break forum rules. I would not want it any other way. I like having issues as it gives me something to do when the clouds roll in.

@carastro Take a look here at the mod @Sunnieboy has mentioned.

15 hours ago, carastro said:

I presume you have to unscrew the whole focusser assembly to get it out

Hi @carastro, you only need to take out the screws that hold the focus adjuster plate in place. You can then just pull the draw tube out. You can just unscrew the compression ring at the eyepiece to remove it, if it's needed.

I would ask him to use a nice flat sharpening stone over the flat part on the tube, This will grind it flat and make better contact with the part that move the tube up and down.

There is a youtube vid somewhere.

Found it.