spillage

1 hour ago, tony8690 said:

If I had a 130 psd and a eq5 with synscan would I be ab.e to do long exposures? 300 seconds +

 

thanks

t

I had the eq5 pro with a 6" c6-n and d1100 without a guide scope. If you are imaging galaxies then you may get 300 subs but you will get star trails so will need to be heavily cropped and you will have to dump allot of lights.

I have had my 130pds for several months now but last night was its first time out. Pretty poor effort and I think the mk111 cc needs adjusting. Obviously my processing skills need more than adjusting but hopefully in time....I just could not reduce 52 enough without loosing details in the nebula and of course I should have framed the target better but this was my first time on the witches broom.

When I do this in apt I will always pointsolve (platesolve) from the park position first. This aligns the scope. Then choose the target and solve. I have never bothered to clear any data from eqmod and although sometime it can struggle to solve and throw a wobbly I normally have it ready to go in a few minutes.

Once I get another clear night I will make a proper note of my routine in apt and post it up if that would help.

I remember spending ages at first getting it to work (sorry getting my head to work it out) then just followed the manual like a robot without deciding I knew best and suddenly it worked like a dream.

@red dwalf If you have a separate guide scope then only use your imaging camera or else the target will be off center or miles out. I take it you have the mount in the parked position but unparked and are then running a auto solve first? Then choosing your object and solve this. Been ill for the last week and I cannot remember the last time of started up my kit due to weather but this will help you.

(when doing my alignment using blind solve I seem to always click the scope position to help speed things up).

Cheers

Spill.

Quick fix on the connection. Those things have a huge amount of plastic around them. I would consider filling the top corner off a bit so it clears the forks.

Although steppenwolf's lead looks the dogs....

I'm sure that issue 2 is the draw tube obstructing the light path. Sorry can't help with the first issue as not yet using a mono.

@Jez

I really would suggest that you try out the obvious processing programs available. pixinsight and startools not sure about astroart. pixinsight is a 30 day trial and startools is unlimited but without the function to save the final image.

Ask around and I am sure someone will be able to provide you with the data need to try processing. This will not only help you decide what software will suit you but also if you prefer mono or osc.

You can then make you mind up using advice here and experience of using the end data. Of course the cost of each may also be a factor.

You are not the only one in this dilemma. I have been using my canon dslr's for while now and would like to take the plunge into the money pit whirlpool of a dedicated camera.

I think osd will  be easier but I think after a while I would be wanting a mono and start to regret buying the osd. I also think to get the best out of it you will need a permanent pier for your mount to help go back on a different night to collect more data and just cannot see myself trying lrgb over several nights having to setup up polar align and take down every time. Although I must admit that I have given up at the moment with the dslr until my pier is complete.

1 hour ago, moise212 said:

Hmmm, don't the 2 leftovers add some unwanted diffraction?

No not at as this would have been present in a stock unit and you are just clearing a path for the light and not actually moving parts. It also allows for you to use the scope for visual.

Sorry it is a bit late but though I would post photos showing the focus tube improvement/upgrade to increase photon collection. I hope it helps.

Cheers

Spill

If I get 5 mins I will post a photo of my focuser. I think a dremel type tool would make things easier.

You can cut a wide slot out the the focus tube from front to back and this allows full movement of the focus tube and is less restrictive.

I would use araldite or poxy resin. Think that would stop any movement. 

5 minutes ago, Gina said:

That is a possibility and yes, I had thought of it.  Two problems as I see it - less shelter than a standard dome and the problem of sealing the two halves when closed.  Thanks for the suggestion though   All suggestions gratefully received

Would there not be a good size overlap incorporated into it when shut? There should also be a small gap between the two parts and I would consider a bead of silicone sealer and or adding a folded return on the edge of the inner panel to stop the wet and allowing it to run down and out.

@akb beat me to it....

18 hours ago, Atreta said:

Wim, yes i did, yesterday i tried and the polar alignment error was bouncing from 0.4 to about 10 or more, backlash i don't recall the value but it displayed some backlash too.

I can only add that you us a eqdir and allow phd to drift align until the graph starts moving along. I find that until the graph starts moving my pa will not settle down.

Hi Geoff,

The eqdirect lead allows you to remove the handset from the setup. This means less leads. You can then use a bluetooth controller playstaion/xbox via eqmod to control the mount if needed.

This is the lead here and here is some info on its use (the is further down the page).

On 11/6/2016 at 17:33, Ant-33 said:

For guiding, I use an ST80 and QHY5l-IIc. The fov is a little over half a degree, so it's not wide enough for the Sharpcap polar alignment routine. I wondered, though, whether using a 0.5x focal reducer would work. It would bring the fov to over a degree, which is within the spec for the polar alignment routine. Does anyone have experience with this setup?

Robin - Sharpcap is a fantastic program, and I'd like to echo the appreciation others have shown here. Awesome  

i have tried several time and use the st80 and qhy5 mono. I just can get it to pick up enough stars. Will keep trying but for now an using php2 drift align.

Glad you resolved it. I was reading the post and was going to mention this as I still forget this from time to time. You might find cdc much better than stellarium. It may seem hard work to start off with but its so worth putting in the effort. I would also like to mention that you do not need to set up anything on the handset (not sure if you do) just pc direct.

I was under the impression on a post I read a while a go on here that the ir filter will filter out unwanted ir whilst allowing wanted ir onto the sensor. Sure it also mentioned it helps with processing the image.

Maybe it was because it lets all the Ha pass but reduces the ir.

Thanks for all the info provided. I think I will stick with 2" filters and for now will just get a uv/ir filter and in the future if/when I ditch the dslr for ccd then slowly purchase nb filters.

Can I ask if anyone has or tried or even compared the more expensive uv/ir filters compared to the £15 chinese ones available on ebay. Will I really notice a difference when using a cheap one with my dslr.

Thanks all for you advice.

I will look around for a coma corrector to come up for sale first then look towards buying 2" filters at a later date.

Cheers

Spill.

Hi All,

I currently have a canon dslr and now looking at either purchasing a coma corrector for my 150pds  or some filters. I am sure I would be better off with standard filters rather than clip in.

Am I right in thinking that most ccd cameras use 1.25 filters. I only ask because I am not sure if buying 2" filters would be a good choice.

I am just thinking of a possible future upgrade to a ccd and dont want to waste money on 2" filters to have to then go and buy 1.25 ones.

Is there going to be any difference using 2" over 1.25" with a dslr.

Cheers

Spill.

4 hours ago, Davey-T said:

If you're remote you need a list to make sure you've got everything before you leave home, an absent minded person could forget the counterweights 

Dave

That why we should all have duct tape in our cars..I find taping large stones to your mount resolve this one...

Or the large notice above the extension lead plug marked "DO NOT UNPLUG OR TURN OFF!!!" is clearly and securely in place.

I must admit it make me slightly tired just reading that list but good effort. 

2 hours ago, Astrosurf said:

Thanks Olly! Can you tell me which setting I go into in PHD1?

Do you not click on the brain icon and in advacned setup change the dec guide mode in the top right?