spillage

I would go for any of the canon cameras due to software support. Not sure if the nikon is supported in ATP but canon's always were supported. I used to use a modded 500d and still have my standard 1100d.

If you can get one with live view it can make life a little easier.

Check out Chris Shillito on youtube here he is one of the developers of eqmod. He is also a member of this site.

I find for me that 2.5 seconds in phd works well in most conditions but be prepared to make small adjustments as needed and I guess its very dependant on the kit you use. Also ditch the handset, bite the bullet and use your eqmod lead.  You will find it so much easier and you will get rid of allot of mucking about with the handset settings.

I have never used backyard eos only apt and sgpro but with the eqmod lead you just start up you software connect the gear and platesolve to you target..job done. I just kick myself wondering why I took so long to do it this way but I guess like you I thought I needed to build up to it..

I have always thought it would be great to have something similar built into phd2.

I would expect you tracking to be bad. But I guess how unbalanced it is. I would imaging that if its slipping on the clutch then it must be very heavily unbalanced.

No because the belt system should take out nearly all the backlash, you may find you will have a few millimeters of backlash after fine adjustment of the worm gear spacing but this is normal for this type of mount. I always make sure the scope is neutrally balanced whether its the 130pds or the 8" quattro.

So if it was my call and due to the fact there is not noise made I would be looking at the clutch. I would do up the clutch remove the lever and refit it a couple of cogs over and tighten it back up. A slipping belt or gears make a racket. You say I think you have checked the gears on the motors and worm shaft. But again just to be sure I would remove the panel and worm gear plug just to see what moves. The belt upgrade will mean that you now need good balance.

Too late to go out and check but I am sure when I was making adjustments to the worm shaft I kept unscrewing the wrong cap as there was not a slotted nut on one side. It has been a while since I had to touch anything on the mount though. What about the backlash grub screws. If they were too loose would it cause this issue. Did the op say it made a horrid sound? may be the teeth slipping.  Do you not just need to take out any float from the worm shaft? Cogs are tight and in place, belt is not really slack or stupidly tight.

Maybe try moving the dec housing 1/8th or 1/4 of a turn to push the worm gear closer.

I would remove the cover to the worm shaft and remove the control panel. Using long nose pliers or normal pliers if they will fit manually turn the worn shaft and check that the motor turns without any play. Have you made any adjustments to the clutch lever and what happens if you run the mount without your scope attached, is the same thing happening?

I am sure there should only be one locking nut for the worm shaft.

I always thought its heat and moisture that can cause more damage than low temps.

I would like to make an assumption based on a previous comment about mobile imaging. For deep sky imaging with a dslr you would have a laptop for guiding, collecting data and running camera software. You would have a power source for the camera, guide cam and mount. So as a setup subject moving from a dslr to a dedicated camera is no different as the imaging train would not be stripped down every time (would it?)

I can only agree with @ollypenrice when it comes to the speed of a mono. The images I can get from the asi1600mm in 20 minutes far exceeds what I could achieve with my modded dslr. If you have the money to spend I would really suggest that a mono camera would be the best option. If money is an issue then maybe look a a cheap modded dslr and keep an eye on the second hand market for when funds are available to you.

Do I think mono processing is harder? Not really I am in the habit of renaming one of the images as "reference" and just use this in DSS for each filter and this is the most time consuming part vs using osc for me.

I know there is the argument of osc giving you a quicker result but I think on the whole the mono images will be superior and at the end of the day people spend years collecting data from targets so if takes you a month or two does it really matter.  

PS I do one focus on the L filter and do not refocus on the filter changes. In fact I only use one set of calibration data across all of my 7 filters.

Try downloading ccd inspector (30 day free trial) and run a single sub through it and see what the 3d collimation looks like.

I can happily guide with my neq6 with a quattro 8" and st80 strapped to the top of it. Normally around .60"pp. I think with very good balancing and no wind at all I could manage the 250, but would probably want to use a smaller guide scope. 

Also be aware of microlensing with the asi 1600. I get this with my ed80 but not with the 130pds. I would suggest making sure you have enough left over to belt mod you mount as this will really help you make the most of your kit. I have an older ed80 with the single speed focuser and have a asi1600, skywatcher ff and sx 7 filter wheel hanging off it with no issues. You may just need to file the focus tube so that it is nice and flat (really easy job).

My original qhy5 with my st80's was bomb proof. I do however us the asi120mm at the moment but have held onto the qhy as a back and to use on my travel kit.

36 minutes ago, Adam J said:

I think its the other way around, normally you place the laser spot in the centre of the primary spot by adjusting the secondary position then in my case i change to a barlowed laser to project the image of the primary mirror spot back into the centre of the laser colimator, the Barlow takes out the effects of tilt. 

I also would agree with this. I do have a catseye collimator but only have a doughnut sticker on the primary not a triangle so its good but not as good. I am tempted to get a moonlite for the 8" as I feel this should reduce any tilt. 

I think that using the cheshire or sight adaptor to help orientate the secondary and get it round and central in the focus tube, then I would use the the laser and  three adjustment screws to line up laser with the primary doughnut. Finally I would then align the primary back to the target on the laser . I tend only to use the laser to get it nearly there and recheck using a cheshire. A star test really tells the true picture but this is the part I really need to work on.

Apt, sgpro. eqmod. phd2, stellerium or cdc.  I can check what I have when I get home if you want. Did you have pixinsight, startools, photoshop?

So hopefully this is the best I can get it with the spacers that I have. Tracking on this single 30s light was really bad. I also didnt realise my primary lock nuts were loose and ended up moving one of the adjusters when handling the scope so had to try and redo collimation again, which still needs redoing as I am not that happy with it.

Thank you very much @Skipper Billy. I have made further adjustments and will see if I can get any test shots tonight. At least I know which adjust needs to be made now.

cheers,

No sure why I did not notice the gain values before. With the 1600 I do not think you can bin the camera as binning can only be done afterwards in software.

I have added a couple of delrin rings and I think its a bit better.  @Skipper Billy if you do get the chance to run this jpeg that would be appreciated and at least I know I'm going in the right direction.

This might be useful

Too Close

Too Far

Because I am using a coma corrector I need to precise distance from it and my sensor. Too far away and the stars will streak towards the middle of the mirror and too close and they will appear to rotate around the centre a little like bad tracking. I was just worried about collimation but skipper has confirmed for me that this is okay.