MartinFransson

Thanks! No, it didn´t show up in the RGB (although I didn´t have much of that), it was from the O3-data used to enhance blue and green channels.

Dark sky is everything on a target like this I´m afraid. That and loads of data

This is very interesting as I have problems with blue on my 1600MM-Cool and with Zwo filters! Could you also recommend a Lum-filter that does not give the bloated stars that I get with the Zwo Lum? I would very much like to see star tests. Could you tag me if you start a new post with that?

Wow, that´s deep. I think you could back off on the noise reduction even more. The background looks too smooth and I´m sure you are losing the smallest and faintest galaxies there. Also, I find that a small amount of noise makes the image look more "real".

That´s deep! Looks great, although I would (no I wouldn´t, but it might be a good idea ) back off on the stretching just a tad. I get the same type of granular noise when overstretching my data. There is just not enough signal to be pushed that hard. With even less data I tend to also get some larger, blotchy noise patterns.

Wait, what?! It´s possible to stop? 😮🤣

That´s a really nice Soul Nebula but man what a pain to have all those issues with the scope... having wrestled with some technical issues myself I can relate.

Ooh, that´s looking nice! And I can seriously feel the urge to get that last RGB data That is the pain of mosaics - waiting for the final data for that last panel.

That´s looking good so far! I like how you didn´t go overboard with noise reduction despite there being some noise. I prefer this more natural looking edit rather than the "plastic fantastic" look that can result from over smoothing the noise

I finally managed to get some LRGB for my second panel of the mosaic I shot of the Monoceros area. I already had the narrowband mosaic finished. I used the Ha and O3 to enhance the R and B channels and also some of the O3 in the green channel. I used the @ollypenrice method of blend mode Lighten i the channels in PS. I also created a combined Lum from the Ha and O3 and blended that in at about 30% in the final image. Total exposure for both panels about 12,5 hours: L: 73*60s R: 35*60s G: 31*60s B: 34*60s Ha: 54*300s O3: 60*300s Equipment used: Zwo ASI 1600MM-Cool + Samyang 135/2.0 @f/4 and HEQ5 Pro Synscan mount.

That is a very nice narrowband Soul Nebula mosaic! I think you did a very pleasing work with the editing as well.

Here is another one with the large blue stars. Regardless of what scope or lens I use, blue (and O3) always produce bigger stars. Even with the Astrodon 3nm O3-filter there is a huge difference compared to 3nm Ha. Don´t know if the camera (ZWO 1600 MM-Cool) has a problem with blues or if that´s just the way it is. Anyway, that M45 looks like it could be good if you collect some nice, tight Lum to go with that RGB. Have you tried stopping the 200mm lens down? It is possible by attaching it to your DSLR selecting for example f/4 and pressing the depth of field preview button and detaching your lens before letting the DOF button go.

I would ditch that LP filter. There might be good ones but in my experience they cause more problems than they solve if the LP is not worse than what you´ve got. Great start!

That is not at all bad for considering the equipment used and the short total exposure time! It looks like you need a field flattener for that scope, though.

Now that is a lot of dust! Awesome capture! And I like how you handled the (very) bright stars.

I collected some LRGB for one of the panels to my Rosette to Cone mosaic yesterday. Today I´ve been working at editing the LRGB and then combining with my Ha and O3. Turned out really well I think! Samyang 135mm lens at f/4 Zwo ASI1600MM-Cool Zwo LRGB filters, Astrodon 3nm narrowband filters. 27*5min Ha 29*5 min O3 15-18*1min each for R, G and B 38*1 min Lum Hope you like it!

Thank you!

The size is 6240*3333 pixels so that would be about 21*11 inches at 300 dpi, but for larger prints I find 200 or even 150 dpi is enough so that would be up to 42*22 inches. The thing is - the larger the print, the further away you watch it from I have printed a 5 megapixel image at 3*2 meters and it looked OK since you had to stand far away to see it properly.

Thank you! I´m very pleased with it myself... might even print it

OK, that sounds like I might be able to try Just one thing, how do I colour balance a single (mono) channel? In my world only an RGB image is possible to colour balance... Thank you for taking your time to explain!

Do you mean that each individual sub in R, G and B has to be processed (wiping, offsetting etc) and then stacking them? Or is that a process for the stacked R, G and B images? Seems like A LOT of work to process each individual sub! 😮 Honestly, I think this process is above my skill level at the moment

Thank you! I´m not sure I follow what you mean by "do RGB ratio to transfer color to those stars" but I´ll give it a try I use Pixinsight and Photoshop.

Started this in 2017 and finally got some O3 for my mosaic of the Monoceros area. Two panels of Ha and O3, combined to look more like an RGB image. Ha: 27+27*5 minutes O3: 29+31*5 minutes Ha collected at f/2.8, O3 at f/4 for tighter stars. Samyang 135mm lens. Thinking about collecting some LRGB but I find it hard to blend that in without the stars overpowering the image. Thoughts?

Thanks, I am pretty happy with this one

So, I got a new (used) scope a few weeks back and have started testing it now. I think I need to fiddle a bit with the spacing but it looks OK (not perfect). I gathered a few hours of O3 and combined it with some older O3 and Ha from my Sigma 500mm tele lens. This is 45*5 minutes of Ha and 111*5 minutes of O3. ZWO ASI 1600MM-Cool with Astrodon 3nm filters. Sigma 500/4,5 EX DG HSM lens TS Optics Photoline 80mm f/6 triplet