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About Roysten

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  1. Roysten

    Skymax 150 Mak-Cass SOLD

    Hi Craig, I was looking at this scope the other day thinking I'd like to get one but can't justify the cost, quite serendipitous that you've posted this ad! I'll PM later to discuss.
  2. Hi @Cosmic Geoff, thanks for advice. Before I source screws I just want to check if I'm going about this the right way as your comment suggests I might not be. Essentially I want to mount my small refractor onto my main OTA to act as a guide scope by screwing it onto the tube rings. Would you say there was a better way to do this?
  3. Hi guys, I've been wanting to mount my small refractor onto the top of my 150P via the screw that comes with the scope on the tube rings. It works quite well but the single screw that came with my scope has snapped. I've tried to buy some replacements but the thread pitch is different and so they don't fit, you can just about see the difference in the picture. Can anyone tell me where I can buy the correct screws or if there is a better way to mount a small refractor onto my scope? Thanks guys, Roysten.
  4. Roysten

    Video processing issue

    Hi @ecuador, never tried using Firecapture, would you say it's a superior bit of software compared with Sharpcap? Do you know if it can handle custom resolutions in a more stable way than Sharpcap? As I'd like to get the moons in shot without a lot of empty space above and below eating at my fraerate. I'l try the quality estimator in PIPP and try Autostacker too. Thanks for the advice.
  5. Dominating the sky at opposition. Video taken 8th April 2017.
  6. With the couple of decent nights we had last week I was able to finally get a view of Jupiter at opposition this year! The problem I've been having is when I've processed the videos. I've been taking videos in RAW8 at a custom resolution (720×240) with a ASI120MC camera in sharpcap. I noticed that the image would jump about periodically causing part or all of Jupiter to flash to different parts of the frame. I hoped that when aligning with PIPP and then limiting the number of frames in Sarpcap to the 10% highest quality images that it'd go away but when I finish the image I get the strange line artifacts that are evident in the attached image, which are ruining the images. The jumping didn't happen in "normal" resolutions so that seems to be the most obvious solution. I was wondering though if anyone had any advice of how to process the videos in PIPP/Registax/other program in order to delete these rogue frames? Cheers guys.
  7. Something like this may be helpful too: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/172283387733?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=40176066202&rlsatarget=pla-279594455985&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=1006816&device=c&campaignid=738210941&crdt=0
  8. Hi Peter I think to film in 5× mode you want to be pressing the following button once when in video mode. You should see a little image in the bottom right of the LCD screen that then says that you're in 5× mode.
  9. Hey @hornedreaper33, that a Dungeon Keeper reference there? I think a lot of people generally use a polar scope, which you can pick up for ~£30 depending on your mount, FLO and 365Astronomy both sell one for my EQ3 mount. I've heard good things about Polar-Master's but they look very expensive! Before using Sharpcap I was just using my finderscope and aiming about 1º away from Polaris in the direction of Dubhe and Merak in the Plough, admittedly very crude! @The-MathMog, I used my ASI120MC with a 0.5× reducer attached to my Travelscope 70 to get the alignment then switched to my 150P and DSLR to capture the main images. Probably be better if I could mount my smaller scope ontop of my 150P but I don't really have all the necessary attachments. Hi @astrosathya, the light pollution is made near me too! To get many stars at all I was having to use an exposure time of 5 seconds and gain at near 100% to get a lock. Seeing was pretty fair, better than the other time I tried it. Will be interesting to get a little into the country and see if it's any easier.
  10. Roysten

    1st year review

    Good to hear your story Peter! Pictures are great too, quite the catalog of objects!
  11. Roysten


    I know the feeling Mikey, I check Clearoutside several times a day. It's sad that I'm beyond being surprised when the 100% cloud cover stretches off into the future. Sometime I wonder about recommissioning my scope as a coat hanger!
  12. Good effort Ger! My first images were taken using my smartphone, I really struggled to get much of anything in view and the images didn't improve as my hands got colder! Hope you're able to get out and take some more, it's very addictive once you get going!
  13. Over the last few months I've been trying my hand at imaging DSOs, in learning to do this I've found that you really can't get away with exposure times longer than a few seconds without motors and a solid polar alignment. Initially I tried this by eye using Polaris, the best I achieved was around 8 seconds of exposure before the inevitable drift of whatever is in my view. I thought about buying a polar scope or learning the drift technique, then I happened upon the polar alignment facility in Sharpcap 2.9 on this forum and gave it ago. Jut thought I'd write a few things about how that's gone for me. Firstly I tried using the software with my 150P with a field of view of <1/2º, unsurprisingly this didn't work; I just couldn't see enough in the field of view for the software to lock onto anything. I calculated the field of view of my 70mm Travelscope with my cam and still found it to be shy of the 1º requirement. So I bought myself a cheap 0.5× reducer to achieve ~1.8º across field of view. As most people have found the weather has been shocking with weeks of cloud at a time. Since I got the reducer at the beginning of Feb I've only been able to get out three times. It's only on the third time late last week I was able to finally achieve a polar alignment using the software! It took me over an hour; the light pollution in my subburban part of Hull is pretty bad and the software was rarely able to consistently detect the same dozen stars with every refresh of the image. I had to have my gain quite high with an exposure time of 5 seconds to get much out of my images. I was getting quite a bit of noise in the images but increasing the minimum star-size in Sharpcap from 1 to 2 pixels seemed to help. Quite often I'd get a lock for the first RA angle but not on the second, which was very frustrating. The times I got a lock from both angles were then hampered by the lack of the yellow line, which dictates which way to move the Alt-az and altitude on my mount, obviously in those instances I was very far away from the NCP. It isn't an overstatement when I say I was over the moon once it finally locked onto the correct point! I achieved a PA less than 1" from the NCP, I have seen people who have achieved much better than that but this has been an order of magnitude better than anything I've done previously, where I was lucky to get within half a degree. For those who struggle with PA I can definitely recommend the Sharpcap feature, it is fairly intuitive, easy to use and quick. To show the difference it can make I've attached an image of everyone's favourite - M42. Multiple other problems with the image aside I'm pleased with the improvement of the image with good PA compared to the one by eye. Both images were taken as 30 second exposures on a motorised mount. I hope this is helpful for those who have struggled like me and I'd be interested in hearing other people's experiences with PA.
  14. Hi Peter I've not had a shot at Jupiter yet this year but my brief efforts on Venus have shown how much the quality can drop when imaging near the horizon. Like Art Gecko I'm eagerly waiting for April for it to be higher in the sky. I've never imaged it with a DSLR but I have with a ASI120MC and got these kind of results. I found that getting a Bahtinov mask was a big help for focus and lowest exposure rate possible to prevent blurring and over-exposure, though for you taking a video and looking at the image over exposure does not look to be an issue. I used an old Logitech webcam at first which was ok but the low resolution meant that to get any detail I had to use 5× Barlow lenses, which made life difficult, especially before I got my motors! My experience with the ASI120 has been positive, I read plenty of reviews including on here before I bought it and for me it seemed the best choice in terms of costs and what I was looking to get out of it.
  15. Roysten

    The EQ3 DSO Challenge

    Am enjoying following this thread, some great pics being posted! Got some new kit and got out for the first time in weeks last night. A single sub of everyone's favourite - Orion at 15 seconds with contrast as only post-processing. Rough and ready but a nice demo of what the kit can do. +1 for the EQ3 mount for DSOs

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