dnl

To show a correlation could you just use the info from here. https://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/moon/distance.html?year=2024&n=1332 Although Milton Keynes may not be the hotbed of earthquake activity. And divide the difference by 14 to give a daily value . Or am I just simplyfing to much

I have to agree its the most useful thing I ever bought . Just had a look through my folder that I keep 3d designs in wether from thingy or ones ive made 782 files😱. Recently got a SV 3-8 zoom and I needed a spacer so the long barrel didnt hit the diagonal ,Just print off in tpu ,dew shields for bino's print some off ,missing caps ,brackets for lasers or view finders. I dont think theres a week goes by I dont print something I just use tinkercad for design and cura to slice

I've still not had chance to test on a clear dry sky but had a quick look at the local chimney pots and it looks promising apart from how long that barrel is 😕. I've not found it to be to stiff and my caps are loose but stay on without me thinking I need to replace them. I do love having a 3d printer to solve these little problems 😃

Ordered mine 8 days ago from AliExpress for £71. Arrived already now where's those clear skies

Hi Stefan73 Ive had another fiddle and dismanteled the reducer still further to try fitting the reducer after the OAG (telescope Side) which means now im just looking for an adaptor m48male to 42 female which actually exist😄 ,just about to ring rvo to see if they have one in. Im not sure if I can get it close enough with my OAG but im trying to avoid buying another OAG . Then I just need a clear night to do some testing

Hi Looking for some wisdom /advice I'm trying to setup an oag with a Altair 0.8 reducer and a canon camera. The reducer will go Infront of the camera to give 55mm bf then the oag. To keep the oag as close as possible I want to remove the nose piece on the reducer and find an adaptor that connects the reducer to oag. Trouble is the thread on the reducer appears to be m54 1.5mm pitch and I can't find anything to fit. Can anyone suggest an adaptor that will work going from m54 1.5 male on one side to 42 0.75. female on the other . Or do I need a rethink? Cheers Dave

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heater-Temperature-Regulator-Astronomy-Telescope/dp/B08LG4B41T/ref=asc_df_B08LG4B41T/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463264511915&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11443379532803764471&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007064&hvtargid=pla-1149315429486&psc=1 Just got one of these from Amazon there a couple of quid more but the heated part is perfect on a 120 ed frac then the stretchy velcro goes well beyond . Thought it was faulty at first as it only worked on low and medium but looked like this was down to the power supply used as when plugged into a higher amp power supply all good.

N-1 N = number of eyepieces I need

All done now £30 for the dovetail holes lined up without any jiggery pokery and printed radius blocks. Just need a clear night now🙏

Yes it's going on an EQ. Looks like I'll be doing some careful measurements and a bit of 3d printing. Thank You

Hi Looking for advice please. I'm going to defork my lx90 and have a quick question regarding the fitting of the dovetail bar. The bottom and top circumference of the ota is slightly different. Do i need to shim one end to make the light path parallel to the bar or will any mount allignment I do mean it doesn't matter. This will mostly be for visual but might attempt AP in future. Cheers Dave

I'm the same since I got the printer every couple of days I print something. Latest was for some solar film I bought. Printed cap in soft filament and a rigid retaining ring for the inside. Now have filters for 120 frac. Helios 20x80 binos. And Aculon 10x25 binos.

Maybe durability may of been a better choice of words. But I've found abs to be best for usable parts. When printing any part you wouldn't rely on the bond between layers. Taking the parts tested In the video you would print them on there side then they would probably all take my weight.

For anything needing strength Abs is your best bet but can be a pain. I need to get the bed UpTo 110 and big parts have a habit of warping. Its also easier to finish if you need to sand a bit off after to get a snug fit. Dave

I'm constantly printing bits and bobs. On an astro theme some dec knobs to replace the ones you can't adjust without removing the polar scope cover. A set of mounts to fit guide scope directly to the top of rings. Various lens adaptors including the ring to convert finder scope to guide scope. Various box's for buck transformers. And loads more Dave