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Everything posted by D4N

  1. Normally imaging is performed at prime focus (no eyepiece), any reason why you don't want to do that?
  2. Have you aligned the scope with the red dot finder? This is easiest to do in the day. When you do this point the scope at something distant (not the sun) then adjust the red dot finder so it is pointing at the same thing. This will also get your focus position close to where it needs to be as well.
  3. I think an OAG can work well on an SCT but it can be a pain to get the spacing right if you are using a reducer. My guide camera is mounted to my imaging camera so its USB cable goes with the power and USB for the imaging camera. My focuser is connected to the USB hub built into the imaging camera. The ST4 cable hangs down on its own.
  4. Välkommen, quite a few from Sweden on here. You can see the moon in the evenings now, Venus is up in the evenings as well and looks a lot like the moon at the moment but a lot smaller. A couple of good targets would be M45 the Pleiades (Plejaderna) and M42 the Orion Nebula. You will also be able to see M31 the Andromeda galaxy quite well in your scope although this is a little harder to find. Get some software to help such as the free Stellarium or Cartes du Ciel. If you have a mobile device Sky Safari is great.
  5. Yep, I didn't proof read that very well did I? Must be time for bed.
  6. With my setup I issue a slew command from the parked position directly to my imaging target, I then rough focus and plate solve, sync and re-slew. Now it is pointing the right way I calibrate PHD2 and start guiding. Fine focus then start image capture. I'm not going to slew to the celestial equator and calibrate there if I am not going to be imaging there. The only time I would do that is if I am going to be carrying out a drift alignment.
  7. Focal ratio has no impact on the field of view. As focal length increases the true field of view will decrease. The 70/700 will have a smaller tFOV when used with the same eyepiece as the 90/900, it will also have lower magnification.
  8. I have Sky Safari 4 Pro, I tried Sky Safari 5 when it was available free and found none of the new features were worth paying for 5 Pro so have stuck with 4 Pro. The Pro version allows you to overlay eyepiece or camera fields of view onto the star chart which is really handy for framing targets and knowing what setup to use.
  9. There are several solutions however extension tubes is not one of them, you need to get the camera closer to the primary mirror or move the focal point further out of the focuser to achieve focus. To do this you can: Use a barlow lens. Modify or replace the focuser so that it can move in more. Move the primary mirror up the tube either by fully adjusting the collimation bolts or replacing them with longer ones. Shorten the OTA by cutting a bit off the bottom. Use a camera where the sensor is closer to the flange. Use low profile fittings. The focuser on my 130P looks like this: As you can see it is quite a bit shorter than normal, whether this allows you to achieve prime focus depends on your camera.
  10. Often the 1.25" adaptor that comes with the scope can be put into service for other things such as the barlow you mention.
  11. Cold is ok, damp is not ok. If you stick a decent dehumidifier in there all should be good.
  12. I've never used it, I have used manual guide commands for testing but that's about it.
  13. I think it depends a lot on the ratio between the focal length of your guide scope and that of your imaging scope and what pixel scale you are working with. I used to use an OAG but have started using a DSLR lens as a guide scope so the settings all had to change. I guess it is whatever works for you. Slow Dec drift in one direction isn't a bad thing, guiding works best if it is correcting in one direction all the time rather than ping ponging from side to side. I think an intervalometer would be a good investment, either that or set up a laptop and control it remotely. You don't want to be touching the camera as going anywhere near the mount can upset the guiding.
  14. Good job getting guiding working, that is one of the more annoying parts. Dec just guide in one direction then backlash isn't a problem. RA make sure you are East heavy then backlash isn't a problem there either. Not sure why you are turning the camera off, are you using an intervalometer?
  15. I normally calibrate on the star I will be guiding on.
  16. Certainly, I have a 5V dew heater for my portable setup that runs off a USB powerbank, you just need to get the wire length / gauge right.
  17. That is an odd size, the thread on my 300P focuser tube is M54 so you can rule that out
  18. Note that it isn't possible to hand hold at 20x magnification, you will need to mount these on a tripod.
  19. I normally use the 2" fitting on my Baader MkIII zoom as well, maybe there is something to that? My scopes are f4.9, f5, f6.7 (also reduced to f4) and f11.6, granted the latter isn't much of a test but the first three are fairly fast and I haven't had any problems with it. A little coma on the reflectors but that is nothing to do with the EP.
  20. Whether the restriction actually applies to a 2" ep is another matter entirely, I know the focuser position for my 2" aspheric is fully out but for my 1.25" ep's it is much further in. I would assume this has to do with the 2"-1.25" adaptor and the position of the lenses in the ep. I'm surprised the Baader MkIII zoom is performing so poorly, I find it gives good stars in all of my scopes.
  21. Are you using kappa sigma clipping in DSS? Are you also using calibration frames? At a guess I would say that DSS has stacked the noise and it looks odd because the image shifts between frames but it certainly does look strange. Otherwise double check all the subs frames, especially the last ones to check there was no dewing or other problems that are getting thrown in.
  22. Ok I'll take three guesses; Two separate sats that have come out of the earths shadow at the same point but possibly at slightly different times. A meteor breaking up on entry and leaving a set of trails. A satellite launch where you see a booster section ejected and heading off in a different direction.
  23. The most likely reasons for not seeing anything are being out of focus and not actually pointing at anything. Both of these can be most easily fixed by setting the scope up in the day and pointing it at something distant (not the sun), adjust the focuser to get a clear image then adjust the finder so that it is aligned with what you see in the eyepiece. Now when you try at night the finder is already aligned and the focus will be close, you will just have to wind it in a bit.
  24. The scope itself is a nice startedr scope, it gets a lot of flack for having a poor RDF but you can easily change this. The erecting eyepiece is a bit of an oddity, I guess they put it in so they can tout it to twitchers but I'm not really sure who would use an eq mount for bird watching. Maybe if the birds are helpful and fly at sidereal rate it could work Edit: oh and it was a good idea to get new eyepieces, the ones that come with it won't allow the scope to perform to its full potential.
  25. What you are seeing is pointing inaccuracy in the goto system rather than field rotation. It is actually quite good if the target moves a little bit between subs as this provides dither, dithering causes the hot pixels to appear to move compared to the stars so they can be removed with kappa sigma clipping. The stacking software will deal with it just make sure your target is somewhere near the middle where image correction is best. DSS is quite bad at dealing with star trails, it will often fail to stack images if the stars aren't round. Startools has the ability to fix non-round stars. I like Gimp, at least the 32bit version is pretty good. Well I like a lot of image processing software so it might be fairer to say I just don't like Adobe's pricing structure
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