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julian489289

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About julian489289

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    Star Forming

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    nottinghamshire
  1. The Theia90 1/10th wave star diagonal is a combined star diagonal and filter changer, with a micro meter tip / tilt adjustable mirror. Theia90 1/10th wave mirror star diagonal body Light baffled nose 3 x 2″ magnetic filter holders Zygo report Instructions Mini Cerberus dust and waterproof case In pristine condition, has never used, won in the nPAE competition. A fantastic product, very well made and comes with individual zygo report but unfortunately does not suit my current imaging needs. £395.00 if purchased as new. Looking for £350.00 ono. Link to nPAE item ; http://www.npae.net/product/theia90-collimating-star-diagonal/ Please reply to this post to discuss any offers, questions about the item or postage costs by signed for delivery only. Payment in cash on collection or through Paypal before postage.
  2. Is anyone using one of the new Altair Astro Hypercam 1600 mono cameras? I am keen to move from a Canon 650D DSLR to a CMOS camera. I like the 1600 mono camera and see many great results from the ZWO ASI 1600m. The Altair Astro seems to have a slightly better spec so I was after any reviews on this camera?? ?
  3. Thank you Vlaiv, I appreciate your response. A new storage hard drive may also be required then!! ?
  4. Thanks Sam, that's a cracking result and doesn't appear to have much noise either. You have set yourself a steep learning curve though, new camera, new acquisition software and PI ?. I have read various reviews of this camera and one downside I have seen is that the sensor window is not AR coated. However, on the ZWO spec for this camera it states that it has AR coating?? Can you confirm this? I am so tempted to make the jump and order this camera, the ZWO 7 position FW and Baader 36mm unmounted NB filters. With NB though, do you find it more difficult to find a decent star to focus on as a lot of the light is filtered out? Also what are the individual image sizes like as I hear that they are rather large?
  5. Hi Sam I am considering the move from Canon 650d to a CMOS. Been considering the Altair Astro Hypercam 183m pro cool or the ZWO ASI 1600m pro. Obviously you went for the ZWO, now that you have it and played with it, is this the camera to go for?? Also what filter wheel and filters did you go for??
  6. I am about to purchase Gradient XTerminator, this should help me in this situation. Thank you again, your help is very much appreciated.
  7. Thanks, that explains it I think Canon has an option and can take a light frame & then a dark frame straight afterwards. I wonder if this would help??
  8. This is a single light frame pre flip (converted to jpeg as tif too large) This is a single LF post flip (inverted prior to stacking in DSS to match orientation of those images taken pre flip)
  9. Vlaiv, this is a copy of that image. It appears that the AG is repeated on wither side when I only get the glow on one side. Was this due to the flip? No other light leakage, view finder covered as well?????
  10. I am a little confused with my calibration frames after a meridian flip during an imaging session. During the session, half of my light frames were prior to and half after a meridian flip. The images after the flip were 180 degrees out to those prior to the flip. Therefore, in my saved directory, I just flipped the after meridian flip images 180 degrees to match in with the pre flip images prior to stacking in DSS. The camera orientation to the scope was not changed, the mount just flipped after M31 went through the meridian. This raised the question, when I take my flat calibration frames, do I need to do flat frames to match in with the pre and post meridian flip images, ie two sets of flats, one to match in with the pre flip light frames and one post flip??? I discussed this in a facebook post and was advised that if camera orientation was not changed just the meridian flip, as flats are relative to your camera's orientation to the objective lens so if you didn't rotate your camera, you won't need to take other flats Your flats are divided from the subs before the alignment occurs, so the orientation of the target will not affect your flat calibration This seemed OK until I processed my image without adding darks as I dither through APT. A FB member tweaked my image to bring out more detail and this was the resultant image. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155385287926622&set=p.10155385287926622&type=3&ifg=1 My camera, Canon 650D suffers from Amp Glow. In this image above, the amp glow from my camera can be seen on both edges of the image, I assume due to the flip. Normally without a flip the glow is only on the RHS of the image only. It was mentioned in FB that a good set of matching darks would be needed to counter the amp glow. This then posed the question, as there would be no flip during the acquisition of the darks, the amp glow in the dark image would be just on the RHS of the dark frame. If it did not matter for the flats by flipping the image for calibration, surely by adding the darks this would only sort the amp glow on the RHS of the image and not both sides?? Or am I missing something in this matter. Would I need to flip a dark frame to sort the glow on the LHS???
  11. Emil, nice neat work dude. Mine gets a bit crowded with wiring as the box is a little too narrow to take the battery and other gubbings side by side
  12. Just completed my modification to ensure that one socket which powers the mount supplies 14.5v and the rest 12v. Rather pleased with the result. Also replaced all wiring inside with silicone coated 20a wire.
  13. Really sweet mate. Just ordered that voltage current meter/display for my box. Going to use the current voltmeter already in use to monitor the output of the boost convertor (when it arrives!!)
  14. Ahh, I wish I had known that info before then I would have had my convertor by now rather than waiting to come from China!!
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