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Everything posted by D4N

  1. I put mine on the shield in line with the objective. It shouldn't be possible for the tapes to damage the kit if you are giving them 12V, however the idea is just to gently warm things so that they stay above dew point. I would suggest plugging them in and seeing how much heat different settings provide.
  2. I haven't used those so can't say which are best but I think as stated above you can use less expensive eyepieces to good effect with an f10 scope.
  3. I have Baader clicklock 2" and also the clicklock 2-1.25" adaptor for my dob, they are a really great product.
  4. Using a 1.25" ep you are restricted by the field stop, with your scope that will give a maximum tFOV of about 1.1° regardless of the of the ep you put into it. Your 25mm BST is pretty close to that already at 1° tFOV so you are only going to be able to get very small tFOV gains by upgrading the eyepiece. You can of course increase the afov by using a shorter focal length ep that has a larger afov but the amount of sky you see won't increase much unless you upgrade to 2" ep's. For example a 17mm ethos would actually give a slightly bigger tFOV than the 25mm BST and you would also get higher magnification. Just a shame that they cost so much.
  5. Are you planning t travel to a dark site? Having been to Manila I know you will really struggle with the light pollution there otherwise and I think the only way you could image DSO's would be with narrowband filters. You may be able to image planets though. Normally you would use a reducer to bring the focal ratio down to around f5 for deep space imaging but for planetary you would do the opposite and use a barlow. What are you mounting the scope on?
  6. Hi Jules, It isn't my link it is viglinks redirecting perfectly good links to adds. All the links on this site seem to go via viglinks now. Copy and paste gets around it.
  7. They still make them. http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3315_Intes-Mikro-Alter-M603---Maksutov-Cassegrain-152-1500mm.html They also make the M606 which is the same aperture but even shorter focal length at 912mm.
  8. Height mostly effects the horizon, if set incorrectly the mount may refuse to slew to objects as it thinks they are below the horizon. Remember the GPS height is height above the WGS84 spheroid which is a best fit spheroid that isn't exactly the same as the Earth so it is possible to have negative heights and be above sea level. However if the mount is expecting height above datum then that's what it should be given. The dark marks do appear to be debris on the sensor, they appear to be moving though. Do you have a sensor cleaning function turned on? These are supposed to remove dust from the sensor but they generally just move it around invalidating your flats. Dithering helps with dust bunnies. Poor goto is often due to poor polar alignment (especially if goto degrades away from your alignment star) I used to get frustrated with mine until I stuck it on a pier and suddenly the goto works perfectly every time.
  9. Well that would be one way of doing it, you can also use spacers. That should increase the magnification. The other thing you may be able to do dependant on what type of barlow you have is unscrew the lens from the barlow and screw it into the nose one of the T adaptor. This should reduce the magnification.
  10. Ah yes, I just noticed the location. Planets can get too high at lower latitudes,this is something that planetary imagers in Northern Europe can only dream of as there is far less atmospheric distortion near the zenith. I'm lucky if I get a planet over 20°.
  11. You can image with Newtonians but standard visual ones are poorly suited for anything other than solar system imaging. With the barlow in place you are at around f15 which is too slow for DSO's but fine for planetary. Remember as well that the magnification from the barlow is not fixed, it can change dependant on the separation between the barlow and the sensor, normally the further apart they are the more effect it will have.
  12. When you view something directly to the South with an equatorial mount you may find that you can no longer track it because the scope will hit the tripod. The solution is to perform a meridian flip, this is a flip in RA so that the scope and weights exchange sides. If you are viewing an object near the South try to start out with the weights on the West side then you won't need to do a flip as it crosses the meridian.
  13. I like number 3, you can clearly see the double class star and M31, M33 is just about visible too.
  14. Whether you need IR block to get good images will depend on the colour correction in your optics. If you just have mirrors it should be fine but if you have lenses then the different wavelengths of light can end up at different focal points. Since the colour correction is mainly aimed at visible light you get get blue bloat from UV and red bloat from IR. On a mono camera this would just appear as a fuzzy image which is not possible to achieve perfect focus. The focal ratio also comes into play here, on a fast scope the sweet spot for focus is very small so exacerbates the problem. Using IR pass as mentioned above gets around the problem in the other direction by blocking everything else so you are just focusing on the IR.
  15. Ah yes that looks like it will work, I'm sure I can knock something up that will draw the air through the tube. Since I sit it on the primary end when it is cooling down I think I'll make something that either goes into the focuser or into the tube cap. I learnt with my imaging obsy that to leave things setup outside I need the provide constant heat to stop it being destroyed, everything freezes up otherwise. It isn't a problem heating a little frac' but it's impractical to heat a big dob. The advantage of living so far north is that the skies can get incredibly clear when it gets so cold, which is great provided you eyes don't freeze
  16. I'm not sure if it would, I think the problem is the air inside the tube so the fan would need to change this out and not just blow air onto the back of the primary.
  17. I have noticed that when I take my scope out to cool down (12" dob) I get frost on the primary mirror. I assume that this is because the air in my house contains a lot more moisture than outside and reaches dewpoint as it cools down. How do others deal with this? I don't really want to heat the primary as this defeats the point of cooling it down. I also don't really want to leave the tube open as that would be an open invitation for creatures to go inside. I've considered giving it a quick blast with a hairdryer to change out the air once it is outside or fitting a small fan to draw air through the OTA, this would also reduce cooldown time.
  18. I think this is purely to pull out fine Nebulosity without blowing out brights stars or if struggling with light pollution. If the sky is too bright you may only be able to get 5-10 mins R sub but the Ha could be 30 mins easily. I think in some locations collecting L data is totally out of the question so HaRGB would be a substitute for LRGB.
  19. I would suggest using software to help you manage the mosaic as well, nothing worse than spending hours building a huge mosaic only to realise that you missed a bit.
  20. Nice, it looks like you have the 2" adaptor in the focuser so be sure to remove that before you fit the 1.25" adaptor or you won't get focus. Hope you get some clear skies to try it out with.
  21. I guess it depends if it is too much flex to throw the goto accuracy out. The best way to know is to try it. I use mine at ground level with an adjustable observing stool.
  22. The important thing with galaxies is to be somewhere dark, light pollution ruins them. Andromeda is great to view at low magnification, a common mistake is to increase the magnification too much on it so you only see the core.
  23. The spacing has to be exactly right or you will get that sort of thing.
  24. Ah well I removed the mirror from my DSLR anyway so no problems there
  25. The noise on the DSLR will be significantly reduced at that temperature but the battery life will also be reduced as well. My CCD seems to handle low temps fine it is the mount I worry about as mechanical components can easily get stuck in the cold.
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