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Everything posted by D4N

  1. One minute isn't bad unguided at 1.5m focal length, I know I've had much longer subs unguided but always at shorter focal lengths. Guiding takes the limit off of it and you can continue to expose until the background gets too bright or highlights over expose. Another option for brightening your image is using a reducer, your scope is f10 which is quite slow for imaging. The apparent reduction in focal length will also allow you to expose for longer before trails appear.
  2. Have you considered guiding? Small PA errors are of less concern when guiding as they help keep the gears meshed anyway.
  3. You mean the finderscope is not aligned with the main scope? This is easiest to do in the day time by pointing the scope at something distant (not the sun) and using the adjustment screws on the finder so that they are both pointing at the same thing. If the main scope is out of collimation that is a bit more complicated to fix.
  4. Glad you have it working now, you should get some great views once you get it pointed skyward. I just double checked my un-boxing pics for my 300P and both fittings were in the same box but not connected together and both had their caps on. As said before this is a common problem so nothing to be worried about, I don't know if they are true but I have heard rumours of people selling on the scope because they couldn't get it to focus which is a real shame as it's a great starter scope if you get it working.
  5. You probably have the 2" adaptor in place. This is basically a small pipe of 2" diameter that is attached to your focuser tube, you don't need to use this when using 1.25" eyepieces. Use only the 1.25" adaptor and an eyepiece then you should be able to achieve focus.
  6. D4N

    M42 sketch

    You can also reduce the white point in the same menu, this allows you to dim the screen more than is normally possible. And of course there is night shift which reduces blue light. I'm sure they will copy it into Android eventually Yeh and if you let the device lock the lock screen will be really bright if you are relying on the apps night mode rather than adjusting the settings for the whole device.
  7. D4N

    M42 sketch

    That looks nice, I guess the main disadvantage for this is the light from the tablet interfering with your night vision. This will matter less if it is fairly bright where you observe. You could use one eye to observe and the othe to look at the tablet, this will likely be tricky to do though. Another option may be to have the light level turned right down and draw with red on a black background, it can be desaturated afterwards. The Apple Pencil though rediculously expensive is a superb bit of kit, it is both tilt and pressure sensitive and the sampling rate is automatically doubled while you are using it. The lack of friction takes a bit of getting used to mind. Inspire Pro is really nice for emulating how you would draw/paint naturally whilst Pixelmator is good for its layers and processing options. I haven't tried any Astro images yet but this has inspired me to give it a go.
  8. Yesterday I pointed into the evening sky and asked my son what he could see, he correctly identified Venus right away. Not bad for a six year old!
  9. And rings too although they are pretty hard to see from here,
  10. Nice, they are difficult to get at all with a mobile.
  11. I was under the impression that it has benefits for both heating and cooling. When first taken out the fan will help the mirror reach ambient temperature then if left on it should help prevent it dropping too much by blowing ambient air over it. This should help prevent dew as the dew point is below the ambient air temperature otherwise you will get fog (at which point there is no point using a telescope!). I wouldn't have thought that vibration would be an issue, CCD's have cooling fans. The noise might be annoying though.
  12. Nice report, sounds like a great first night out with your scope. The fuzzy near Andromeda was probably M110 or M32, M31's companion galaxies. Now you have seen two galaxies!
  13. The moon is the bane of RGB imaging, it destroys contrast. There is some very slight blue fringing on the stars but nothing much, you may just be at the limit of seeing. A while ago I posted a couple of shots with and without moon; https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/231826-what-a-difference-a-week-makes-ced-214/ And the target was nowhere near the moon either!
  14. Having thrown one in the sea before I can vouch that they are pretty good at keeping water out
  15. They are supurb, I just bought a much cheaper case for my eyepieces but then I have also cut a hole in the side for a power cable and I certainly wouldn't want to do that with such an expensive case.
  16. Geographical positions in the form of latitude and longitude are given latitude first then longitude. Grid positions like you would get on an OS or military map are given in Eastings and Northings with the Easting first. Direction is denoted by positive or negative with a negative Easting being West and a negative Northing being South. Grid positions only work regionally due to the curvature of the Earth whereas geographic positions work world wide.
  17. Hmm it's not infinite, just unbounded. The universe may well have a central point but finding it when there is no way to find the edges is going to be tricky!
  18. I think to make it look like that you need to use a star mask so you don't process the stars, or narrowband so they are tiny in the first place
  19. Ah but remember the old galaxies that we view in those wonderful Hubble images may not even be there any more, that light is billions of years old so the galaxies there will have evolved by now and may look a lot more like what we see near to us.
  20. I think it takes longer, requires more tooling and there is a lot of material wastage making them compared to spherical mirrors. On smaller scopes it will have less of an effect anyway. Always down to cost eh?
  21. Lovely. A lot of it is down to processing, the linked image is processed to suppress the stars and bring out the nebulae. I suspect it is also a mosaic made up of several smaller images.
  22. Don't they both serve the same purpose? Since the Parallizer is supposed to centre whatever you put in it you could just tighten up on that. I use a Baader click lock with my Hotech as that applies pressure from all sides as well. The Hotech SCA is a bit fiddly with gloves on, I can imagine how the Parallizer makes it even more so.
  23. The planets can be surprisingly bright in the day if you know where to look. I have used the sun to align my mount before then slewed to planets, a red filter boosts the contrast a lot.
  24. Goto isn't needed so much for planetary and solar, they are mostly easy to find. It can however be great in that the mount tracks the target so when you let your son look it will keep it centred in the eyepiece even at high magnification. You can get very portable goto mounts that have internal batteries so they are easy to transport.
  25. You are already at 1.07 arcseconds per pixel with that scope/camera combo, if your tracking and seeing are both good you could get results that way but I think you may need to guide to be able to image at that pixel scale especially as sub lengths will need to increase. A lot of the Baader eyepieces have a thread under the eyecup, the Hyperion and Morpheus ones all do. I have only used this for planetary though.
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