stash_old

You have got your camera in manual mode (dont know the 450d well)  if you are using APT and you have looked at the canon matrix of camera support on APT site that defines which version of the processor type is supported. https://www.ideiki.com/astro/EOS.aspx

If you choose the wrong matrix processor it will not work but might connect.

https://ideiki.com/astro/usersguide/starting_apt__dslr_or_ccd_cmos_.htm?ms=AAA%3D&st=MA%3D%3D&sct=MA%3D%3D&mw=MjQw

Plus requirements need to be met for APT - not normally needed.

Plus make sure you haven't loaded any software that "grabs" the Canon camera ! Normally not a problem on Windows 🙂

In extreme cases when software/OS is not set up correctly you will need to start APT in run as Administration Mode

Ok tried it out on last nights moon and with a slight Indi settings dslr camera problem and it seemed to work well. Thanks Parick/Han.

2 hours ago, Gina said:

I think all that traffic could be a problem on just the one RPi.  Having separate systems means you don't lose both if one goes down

Totally 100% agree - should be great when its finished 🙂 Will follow with interest and benefit for my future project. 

Hi Han ,

Would this (Autofocus on Planets) still work with a DSLR ?  

Dont know if this helps or not but Gina did you read this thread ? https://indilib.org/forum/ccds-dslrs/3255-using-3-cameras-at-once.html?start=12 - Bet you have 🙂 

3 hours ago, wimvb said:

 

Is this really necessary? Indi is distributed, ie N x M solution with any number of servers and any number of clients. I haven't tested this, but I wouldn't be surprised if only one rpi is needed.

Also, check this link

https://indilib.org/develop/developer-manual/100-3rd-party-drivers.html

Gina said "Since Ekos can only handle one imaging system currently, separate instances of KStars/Ekos are needed to handle dual imaging.  It does handle a separate camera for guiding.  Each imaging camera will have it's own RPi for capture and focussing the lens." and I concur that if you want to run 2 concurrent imaging camera's (i.e. NOT 1 imaging and 1 guiding which is ok) it is my understanding that is not possible at the moment because of Ekos !- perhaps  @RadekK could confirm or deny this !

You can as you point out run many Indiservers in a "Chain" but there will be one master and the rest will be slaves as I understand it - I have done "chaining" using multiple PI's and this works. In effect Ekos thinks its talking to one Server as I understand the chaining process.

Ok the master server can contain many devices and Kstars/Ekos has a profile so the 2 Kstars/ekos would have different devices defined in the active profile.   The following mentions this and Gina was part of the discussion and I presume had further PM's with the Dev's.

https://indilib.org/forum/ccds-dslrs/4256-multiple-imaging-camera-s.html 

Easy test Gina could run 2 Ekos/Kstars Plus 1 Indiserver with all the devices set up  🙂 

Dont know if anyone has done it it yet

As far as I am aware you can Virtual Linux on the same Mint Tower - subject to memory and processor speeds and run either Ekos/Kstars or CCDciel in the virtual set up. Will still need 2 RPI running Indiserver.

OR

YOU MIGHT just be able to run CCDCIEL + Ekos on the Tower (No virtualisation needed) and have 2 RPI running Indiserver.  One Indiserver would run Mount,guiding,platesolving,camera A,focusing while the other would just run Mount simulator , Camera B and Focusing.  You just point Ekos and CCDCIEL to different Indiserver IP addresses.  This should work as I think the Indiserver  config files are held on the Indiserver computer (i.e. not the tower).  Thats the theory 🙂

Thanks to Radek there is a new version of Astroberry available. 

Please may I suggest ,as I stated on Indi, please make a back up of your existing SD card or use a new one - just in case there are bugs. Most do this by default 🙂

Hell last thing is to get some clear sky (whats that) and find your new update causes you to loose clear skies.

Thank you  @Radek for the new version. 

https://www.astroberry.io/distro/

I wonder what this month anniversary of Raspberry PI might bring (if anything)  - 8GB + 64bit OS version perhaps

Moonlite is a well documented protocol + Robert Brown's Myfocuser - both have indi driver's and ascom!

But they re for Stepper motors and Arduino.

Gina on SGL has done RPI plus hat focuser plus indi driver i think

Are you going to release a Linux Indi version Han ?

If you haven't a Internet connection on the Windows Astro hardware then Windows cant update itself. It means a bit of network work/knowledge and extra network hardware (maybe depend on your current set up) to create a private network without Internet connection. 

You can always connect to your Internet Home network via its Wifi profile as and when required , to do update or install software.

There are other ways to limit Windows interference - some work and many dont - google it. 🙂

Else its the Indi/Linux route as Peter suggested. 

But as you state you may well be governed by the Windows dependant software (plus Ascom) you use.

Perhaps if you state what the important software is people will be able to suggest an alternative 🙂

If you use the Accelstepper library to drive either ,Uln2003 or A498, its a lot simpler and you have the added bonus of acceleration/decelaration motion.

e.g.

#include <AccelStepper.h>

// Define Constants
 
// Define step constants
#define FULLSTEP 4
#define HALFSTEP 8
 
// Define Motor Pins (2 Motors used)
 
#define motorPin1  D5     // Blue   - 28BYJ48 pin 1
#define motorPin2  D4     // Pink   - 28BYJ48 pin 2
#define motorPin3  D0    // Yellow - 28BYJ48 pin 3
#define motorPin4  D2    // Orange - 28BYJ48 pin 4
                        
                       
 
// Define two motor objects
// The sequence 1-3-2-4 is required for proper sequencing of 28BYJ48
AccelStepper stepper(HALFSTEP, motorPin1, motorPin3, motorPin2, motorPin4);

=============================

And to drive DRV8825 or A498 

============================

#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <WiFiUDP.h>
#include <AccelStepper.h>

// Define Constants
 
// Define step constants
#define FULLSTEP 4
#define HALFSTEP 8
 

AccelStepper stepper(1,D7,D6);

===================================

D7 and D6 are pins on whatever processor used for DIR and Step

Both the above "bits" taken from working Focuser's based on Arduino type processors.

Not sure if that Library is available for Python code (C++ etc)  ?? ( I know a port did exist at one time) which I guess you will probably use for RPI HAT driven Steppers

But if going Arduino IMO its the best stepper library available. https://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/AccelStepper/

Original coding was based on Projets DIY (http://www.projetsdiy.fr) (Moonlite) and Robert's excellent own MyfocuserPro - later being heavily modified to use AccelStepper library and remove what I didn't use/need .

A slight variant on Roberts view is explained here https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/9111/stepper-motor-holding-torque-without-coils-energized

Bottom line is if the "Cogging"(Detent) torque is enough then you are laughing - BUT geared models obviously have the highest "cogging" torque( holding effect ) even if the stepper itself doesn't power or not!

Plus finding "Detent Torque" value on specs for stepper motors might be a bit hard - std OMC spec for Nema 17 - I couldn't find it in this spec unless they have called it something else or I just missed seeing it (more than likely 🙂 )

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/download/17HS15-1504S-X1.pdf

For the small difference in price its a no brainer IMO - go geared !

Cheapest and simplest route is to either :-

1. Get a hub next to the Pier so use existing cables from devices to hub. Then run a USB active extender cable 5 or 10m from Warm room to hub. Decent powered hub £50). You didn;t say if your Laptop had usb 2 or 3 ? Good quality 5 or 10m extender cable £30. 12v or 5v (DC) power to hub extra £15 - total £100 approx

2. Run Usb active extender cables (5-10m) for each device back to laptop (now in Warm room). 3 x USB extender cables £90.

With both the above and ASSUMING your Laptop has either a RGB or HDMI socket place a small 14inch (or less) screen next to the pier or against the Warm room wall - latter preferred as I assume you would be able o run data and power through the wall! You will need to put the screen into purpose made box to keep dew off and stop glare (switch off when not in use).  Second hand 14 inch screen RGB - £10 or HMDI £30

Pro's

1. No new learning curve for either Remote Desktop or RPI Linux/Indi

2. Simple and tried method.

Con's

1.. Extended Active USB cables do slow the USB links down as there are like adding a new USB hub. 

2. Extra power for Hub (if option (1)) and Screen.

or do as Julian has suggested 🙂 maybe  a secondhand Laptop/Desktop in warm room to Remote Desktop to original Pier laptop to reduce costs - just need wired RJ45/Ethernet between Laptop pier and warm room - assuming you have ethernet in warm room already - if answer to latter is no  Use TP-Link 8 port hub (£15) and some rj45 cables with connectors already attached and set the 2 PC's with fixed IP addresses on the same network (e.g. 192.168.2.2 and 192.168.2.3 ) - google full info.  Secondhand I5 Windows desktop with ssd (240gb) and 8gb memory + screen  for around £150 - would allow you to do Post processing while you wait for clear skies 🙂

On the heels of the other offering,Evoscope, here is another all in one "grab and go !!!) 

https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/reviews/telescopes/stellina-observation-station-review/?fbclid=IwAR0cHS_2WjBsa-aTLwbtuNmZw41DBlLPd3n4iYuzkTeMjFcAZ3GVrB0wZF8

ok its been out for a while!

Did you do a long focus test during the day and could you focus ?- and note the focus settings (mark focuser). ?

If you were successful with the above then it should be a simple (LOL) task of just playing with the Exp,SSDR,SSNR until you see a star. Remember by the time you have changed something the star(s) would have moved if you are manually mounted.

If possible try a fixed earth object as far as possible from you and just try and get the settings/focus correct- remember if you are swapping the camera for an eye piece the focus will be out. I used the finder , with the finder view and OTA aligned ,to pick a object.

Plus "slowly slowy catachy monkey" with settings allow for settling after each change.

Good luck

You could try these been around yrs - cables normally good - but you do pay a price https://www.lindy.co.uk/lindy-cables-i55

There is one thing to be said for Ciggy connectors - if your wiring gets caught and pulls its less likely to do damage (just cut power) than damaging fixed cables  (poss short) and possibly damaging you mounts stepper motors. You choice !

IMHO Best AC to DC main operated power supplies are any decent HAM RADIO power supplies.  I use a MASS brand (last 3 years) and you have a second output for other devices via a distribution box. Some come with Post connectors. 

Note FLO sell M8 Ring ended power cables(gx2 the other end)  for SW https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-silicone-power-cable-for-sky-watcher-az-eq5-az-eq6-eq6-r-eq8-r-mounts.html NOTE these are not fused like the ciggy connector 🙂

17 hours ago, Kirby301 said:

I have ordered the same one that you have linked to, just from a different seller as it was a little cheaper but it's going to arrive sooner too, hopefully by Saturday.

Does that mean if I only used a monitor the camera would automatically stack each video on top of each other internally.

Example - I set the exposure at 1 second, every second the video stacks on top of the previous, giving a little more detail each time?

No but using the SSDR,exposure etc and SNR setting will give you a better image and pick up more detail.  Only something like Sharpcap etc will stack individual frames  (so 20 x 1 secs ).

Also you could improve things by removing the IR filter .

 Dont expect miracles from Analogue set ups but they are simple to use,quick to set up and fun. 🙂

NOTE search this site for settings should still be there. Starting point 

NOTE - Samsung camera does it own "Stacking" 

NOTE Sharpcap does not seem to like a lot of frame grabbers and getting a Windows driver is a nightmare in my experience sometimes

46 minutes ago, gilesco said:

I know it is a different Linux distro, and not Raspbian, but this link explains the problem better than I can with respect to Network Manager and dhcpcd: https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php?id=170813

Astroberry is running both dhcpcd as a service in addition to Network Manager (which spawns its own dhcpcd when you decide to set up a connection as "Automatic")

This causes a conflict, you may not notice it because you are on a single subnet network, whereas I have multiple subnets on my network and need the default gateway to operate.

I have used and set up a lot more complicated set ups! 

You will have to provide a network map and connection requirements to get any further help 🙂

To be honest just download the astroberry v2 image - may save you a lot of hassle.  Radek monitors SGL quite often - he created Astroberry v1 and v2. V2 runs on ALL RPI even 4 using BUSTER

And yes it will auto start, and auto connect devices (must be online FIRST) plus as I said restart individual drivers when problems - doesn't always sor the problem but better than having to restart INDISERVER

See attached screen print with Altair indriver set up - does not mean it will work - I dont have a altair camera 🙂  This was using Chrome on the RPI but it could have been any browser on any box (note maybe some problems with IE)

The only CON (Pro and Con) is that you cant change to nightly (experimental)  repository but main repository for Asroberry V2 is update quite regularly - Even has some obscure software called Oacapture LOL 🙂  Updates are done as per Ubuntu. Plus hopefully when the RPI4 B+ comes out in 4 weeks time you will be able to use it out of the box (maybe) not wait for Ubuntu etc to catch up - which they haven't still really (server version only) plus a messy desktop install.

P.S. If you cant get your Altair to work - you could try using CCDCIEL it can run on Windows(macos or Linux) talk to Indi (like Ekos) AND connect to Ascom camera's at the same time which I presume Altair camera's have ????  Unfortunately you will have to have a cable to your Windows/Macos PC from the Altair device. 

9 hours ago, cjdawson said:

I think I just cracked it.   Seems that there's a program called indi starter that you can get from the CDC people, once installed, that gives me a gui to tell it what drivers to use.   I think that will give some progress

Just use Indi Web GUI - especially with Astroberry(but comes with all versions of Indi) - it controls Indiserver and you can create profiles for what drivers you want starting. It also has the ability to restart individual drivers - so you dont have to restart all the drivers - a very useful point.

Plus its very simple to use.

12 hours ago, cjdawson said:

Astroberry is based on Ubuntu, and there are altair drivers for indi that work with ubuntu.   I'd prefer to see if I can get this working with Raspbian though.    This is the thing that I like least about linux, too many distributions each with their own quirks and that makes software hard to install.

No its not Astroberry V2 is based on Raspian Buster 🙂

Ignore me someone had already stated that fact :-

one of these for a start as trying to change the camera settings is not possible via any software (last time i used one 3yrs ago) plus you dont keep knocking the camera using the settings menu on the back.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264256745408?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264256745408&targetid=857081491170&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046219&poi=&campaignid=7412990371&mkgroupid=90084087802&rlsatarget=pla-857081491170&abcId=1139366&merchantid=118983448&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgebwBRDnARIsAE3eZjQT199GoyI1oJV37cW9fUJrVwzgkPy1SHtPf74IcbtC4BXTYG82w0caAgQOEALw_wcB

The  correct   t adapter .

12v batter supply and power cables - or the multi signal and power cable used in CCTV. Plus mount power if using GOTO.

Analogue to digital adapter to connect to Laptop and be able to capture images- be careful a lot are rubbish and create Windows driver problems or a Display monitor for no laptop and just viewing via monitor.  The later is the most straight forward way.  

BNC cables and connectors.

For short captures (< 20sec) using the internal Samsung stacking an AZ Goto mount will do or just star hop on manual AZ. But dont expect first class award winning photo's (not that is a problem with EEVA) or Deep Deep Space objects.

Just watch your spending (do costings first) as the little items could soone add up and maybe it would be better to get a Digital camera or use a normal DSLR. Look at the second hand market 🙂