brown_rb

The newer myDC3L v0002 with the text colors fixed. myDCP3L-0002.zip

Sorry but the link did not give me access.

I will do the myDCP3 Linux app tomorrow. Today was a major update of the myFP2ESP code. Regards Robert

Linux app updated to v007 v007 Change clNone attribute for all form captions/text to allow control by using themes Source code in zip file https://sourceforge.net/projects/esp32-dew-controller/files/Linux Apps/ Let me know how it goes - you have to recompile source of course. If there are issues post a screenshot here or email me the screenshot and I will address it. Cheers Robert

Whatever you do, do not drill the PCB. This is a double sided board with plated through holes - drilling is a no no. The 10A10 is a biggie - 10A rated, I suggest filing down the leads with a small file to get to fit or first solder a 2p header in place then solder the 10A10 to the 2p header. Do not drill the PCB. The 1N5822 are schottky fast acting diodes. These help shunt the back emf produced during switching off the dew strap. Long leads act as inductors and try to maintain current flow when connected - so are very important. It is true that the MOSFET's do have this protection on chip but the 1N8552 IMHO are still needed. If they do not fit they will after a small amount of filing the leads

The dew controller supports Bluetooth so no need for USB cable in this mode. And yes you can use a phone with the DewController BT app for android phones. Using separate ESP32's You would need 12V with mosfets to driver the output. So you end up with little esp32 - 12V power needed - 3A capable wire needed - dew strap output - 2p RCA socket and wires needed - temp sensor input - 3p lead required So you wouldnt actuall save any cables or wires in my option. The dew controller as is now using mosfets really does not get very hot.

Looking good. Something that is not clear in the PDF. J7 is where you want to solder the ds18b20 transistor [without long leads and metal case - just a transistor type package all by itself] - the reason why it mounted on the board is to measure the pcb temperature and thus control the fan by turning the fan ON to cool the inside board temperature down if it gets too hot. I see you have already soldered J7 headers in place, I would suggest soldering the ds18b20 direct to these header pins. Cheers Robert

The switches are ON OFF. You can use the 3p ones by using the center pin and one of the outside buttons as already pointed out. They are not momentary switches. The 3p ones use are ON OFF. You can use 2p on-off ones if you prefer. You really don't need them though as the software can do that already. The confusion is more about the fact that they are often mislabeled on ebay or aliexpress.

You can build this controller, which also has ascom driver and windows application, which will drive dc motors https://sourceforge.net/projects/mydcfocuserrelativedcfocuser/

You might want to try this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks3cwabbg2cxcou/Stepper%20Motor%20Issues-01.mp4?dl=1

Its possible that you used P channel mosfets instead?

The buzzer probably works better with 47 or 33 ohm resistor. the resistor is to try and limit the current draw to 20mA or less. I think from memory the buzzer draws about 30mA which is a little too big for the Arduino output pin to supply. Without the resistor, the Arduino output pin driving the resistor might be damaged over time. It also has to be a continuous tone buzzer - easy to test - if it sounds when you connect it to 5V then it is the right type - the longer lead is +ve. If it "pops" when 5v applied it is the wrong type. The buzzer I use for a POST indication. [Power On Systems Test] The buzzer sounds indicating that the arduino has been reset/started up. It turns off when the setup() is finished, the eeprom has been read and everything is initialized. So it tells me everything is working as it should be. If it stayed on then it indicated an issue in the setup. if it does not come on at all it indicates something is wrong - preventing the arduino from restarting. It has been very useful to me at times when making changes to the firmware. This is basically of copy of the old PC 386 POST routines I used when making embedded PC's. It is also used as a beep indicator for the Rotary Encoder option and to indicate when the position is set to 0 when both push buttons are pressed at the same time. Regards Robert Concerning cat5e not really suitable. We are talking 330mA *2 (2 coils on) or there abouts. Cat5e is not rated like this and the long cables will have too much voltage drop because the wire area is too low [voltage drop is relative to wire area - thicker wire = less voltage drop]. You are better going to thicker gauge wire. You want to keep the voltage drop low. Also cat5e connectors are no good, the contact surface area is low meaning the current flows through a small surface area - causing contact erosion. You need a good amount of surface area like a db9 connector or gx12 4p connector - it will not suffer from the contact erosion that a cat5e or rj45 connector will, hence last longer and perform better. hence a rs232 extension cable is a better bet.

James A user (Mario) who is following your build asked a question about the Mosfets. It looks like some of those Mosfets are the wrong way round? The double bars on the silk screen indicate the heat sink or metal part of the T)-220 package.

This is not correct. I must take issue with this. A NEMA motor, operated at full steps, CANNOT hold a position at a full step even without power. ONLY if it is a geared motor like a PG27. If it is a standard NEMA non geared motor, then it has insufficient holding torque for most "imaging" trains especially when pointing towards zenith [which must be the true test of holding power] regards Robert

-1 is cold for me. What is your location?