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brown_rb

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About brown_rb

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  1. Version 291 in testing will increase this limit to 100.0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/98taxxjlhocs158/Firmware%20myFP2%20291.zip?dl=0 Cheers Robert
  2. https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduino-myrotator/
  3. Any chance of the STL files, would not mind trying to print one if that if possible. Cheers
  4. What about about a step ring. Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/82mm-to-86mm-82-86-82-86mm82mm-86mm-Stepping-Step-Up-Filter-Ring-Adapter/162062737509?hash=item25bbb12065:g:Da8AAOSw~gRV5XCz:rk:6:pf:0
  5. Yes, the details are on the site.
  6. There are some details here for a SQM type product https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinomysqmskyqualitymeter/
  7. I use this software and their USB relay boards to control my meteor camera - the software you can set on/off times for each day etc etc Very simple and no programming needed. Regards Robert http://denkovi.com/drm-software
  8. For a DC motor focuser, try https://sourceforge.net/projects/mydcfocuserrelativedcfocuser/?source=navbar At least the motor will work with this controller and software
  9. Yes, the myfocuserpro has been tested andworks with INDI (just choose Moonlite as the focuser type) - many build options available.
  10. This comes up from time to time. What the short really does is provide more current capacity to the stepper motor as this is the current sense resistor used to limit current and also provide vref measurements - so shorting the resistor means a current increase as well as any vref measurements are thus totally way off. The increased current allows the stepper to stabilise more, but that also has other side effects that users should be wary of when performing such a mod. Just because it appears to work does not mean it is all win-win. We never get something for nothing when it comes to electronics.
  11. Yes 10k pots, any will do. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-10K-OHM-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-B10K-Pot-Knob-XH2-54-Wire-Cable-/191941882370
  12. Highly recommend you replace the push buttons with these - they are as solid as a rock and work significantly better http://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pcs-Mini-12mm-Waterproof-Momentary-ON-OFF-Push-Button-Round-Switch-/201538126654?hash=item2eec9bc33e:g:PAEAAOSwvgdW4C4V Congrats on getting it working.
  13. I guess the sawtooth lines represent a resistor. There are 4 resistors, 3 at 1.2K ohms and 1 at 1MegOhm There are 2 switches (probably has 3 pins, one pin in the center - if there are only 2 pins this is fine) . Take the first 1.2k resistor and we will call it R11. Wire one end to the resistor to 5V on the arduino. Take the next 1.2k resistor and we will call it R12. Wire one end of the resistor to GND on the arduino. Take the next 1.2k resistor and we will call it R13. Wire one end to the spare end of R11. We will call this join R11/R13. Take the spare end of R13 and wire it to the spare end of R12. We will call this join R13/R12. Solder a wire from the Join R11/R13 to the center pin of switch1 (if switch1 only has 2 pins wire the Join R11/R13 to any pin of Switch1). Solder a wire from the Join R13/R12 to the center pin of switch2 (if switch2 only has 2 pins wire the Join R11/R13 to any pin of Switch2). Solder the remaining free pin on Switch1 to the remaining free pin on Switch2. We will call this join S1/S2. Take one end of the next resistor 1M-Ohm which we will call R10 and wire one end to this join S1/S2. Take the spare end of the R10 resistor and solder it to the GND on the Arduino. Solder one end a wire to the Join S1/S2 and the other end of the same wire to A0 (Analog Pin 0) of the Arduino.
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