michael8554

I too found framing impossible, until I added a Flip Mirror: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Omegon-Syncfocus-flip-mirror-planetary-cameras/dp/B01IQOI8CI/ref=asc_df_B01IQOI8CI/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218087202227&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=200631285328338290&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006463&hvtargid=pla-378459776861&psc=1 When correctly set up, a reticle eyepiece in the top port is used to locate and centre the target. Then the mirror is flipped up so that the target is on the camera. It depends on the eyepiece and camera both being in focus, set up on a distant object during the day. Then adjust the SCT focus only on the moon for infinity focus of the camera, and fine tune on your target. Michael

All year round I leave DST set to OFF, and always enter GMT. If you're still confused, before setup just google for "Current Time GMT", then you'll know whether or not to subtract an hour from the time on your time source when you come to enter the time. Michael

Correct, I misread the question, my bad. Michael

Guiding at higher Decs is "easier" as the stars appear to move more slowly than at low Dec. But where did you Calibrate - On Target, or at Dec 0 ? Does PHD2 have a connection to the mount that supplies RA and Dec position ? Michael

Doesn't your video give a very good demonstration of Periodic Error ? Michael

No, but if you change the orientation you will need a new Calibration, so that PHD2 knows where north and west are 😆 Michael

EKOS does this for you. The OP already has it checked. HTH Yes he has checked Dec, and it is moving, but the first 4 moves appear to be clearing backlash, not Calibrating. Michael

Like I said, PHD2 compensates for whatever Dec you then actually image at. Yes, the vertical scale is Declination, and the horizontal scale is RA. Dec 0 is where the stars appear to move the fastest across the sky, so is the best place to Calibrate. Near Dec 90, the stars hardly move, in fact Polaris at Dec 89 is all but stationary - Calibration on Polaris comes out very strange ! PHD2 is very like assembling an Ikea Flat Pack, best results come from following the instructions in the Help File in the PHD2 Help tab. Michael

If the display shown bottom right in your last image is analogous to a PHD2 display, then the cluster of blue Dec dots instead of a straight line suggests you have forgotten to move the mount north until the star moves before Calibrating, to take up Dec Backlash. Instead the Dec Calibration starts with clearing the backlash instead of moving the mount, which compromises the Calibration. Also PHD2 likes a 12 step Calibration, yours are only 5 steps or so, which may be normal for Ekos, I wouldn't know, so maybe try a lower Pulse Length ? Even so, with good PA, Dec should only need infrequent corrections, so your 2 to 3 arcsec guiding is probably down to the guide settings and balance. I understand you can use PHD2 with Ekos ? Michael

Like I said, at Dec 0 and near south. But you can Cal at Dec 60 if you really want too, but at Dec 0 PHD2 can work out your RA and Dec guide rates more easily. Michael

Canon Utilities that comes on the supplied software disks. Michael

If you don't have a connection to the mount that gives PHD2 the Dec position of the mount, typically a basic ST-4 connection, then you have to carry out a Cal "On Target," every night, every new target. If you do have that connection, you carry out a Cal at Dec 0, the Celestial Equator, and near south, and then PHD2 will compensate for whatever Dec you subsequently go to. The Soul Neb is at about Dec 60, so if you Calibrated there, I'm not sure what that message was about. I do see a reminder that if you WANT to ReCal, you press Shift as you press Guide. Michael

The rechargeable cell capacity is largely irrelevant, it's the fact that they're 1.2V compared to 1.5V for "ordinary" cells. But if the same number of rechargeables is more volts than the mount's minimum, you're good to go. Michael

As Geoff said, use premium cells, not rechargeables as they have a lower charged voltage, and preferably that 12V Mains Adapter. Try a Goto Saturn from Jupiter, does that work? That's a short slew that doesn't strain the cells much, and will prove your setup is correct. Michael

That's where you're going wrong. Tube HORIZONTAL, move weight along rail until balanced. Then tube VERTICAL, move weight out, away from rail, until balanced. Repeat as necessary to fine-tune, but it will always be a compromise. I have Dec backlash, so I balance so that the front of the tube wants to very slowly fall, taking up the backlash. Then set a slight PA error southwards, PHD2 will only pulse north to correct the small PA error, but leave Dec guiding on Auto just in case ! Michael

As far as I can tell, the EF-M series has 18mm back focus, compared to 44mm for EF-S, and a different bayonet mount diameter, giving 47mm throat versus 54mm. The M series would be ideal for Newtonians with insufficient In-Focus for EF-S DSLRs, but seemingly the only adapters are 26mm long, to allow EF-S lenses to be mounted ! But I've read that a Nikon F or Sony E bayonet T Ring will fit the camera perfectly. So which one you use depends on what focus range the Redcat has, whether you can get focus with the easily available "long" adapter . Michael

If you're going from M56 to OAG then isn't that going to happen to an extent wherever you place it ? I use a Full Frame 6D because of it's well known advantages, and accept some cropping even after Flats are applied, my largest hole is M48. Michael

First of all, the moon is not a good example, as the moon and planet positions are "dynamic", the star positions are "static". On un-parking the Star Alignment should be fairly good. On un-parking my LX200GPS a GoTo a star is usually near the centre of the finder, and just needs SYNCHing. But I can't explain why going back and forth without SYNCHing would change anything. Some mounts approach a GoTo at full tilt, then reduce speed for touchdown, but that doesn't sound like your mount's behaviour. Michael

My God, It's Full of Stars..........! Michael

If your FR/FF has 55mm backfocus for use with a Canon DSLR, then assemble OAG - FF/FR - Canon That's what I've done. Also the DSLR won't foul the OAG. And you'll have enough backfocus to add a helical non-rotating focuser into the guidecam path. So much easier than trying to get good focus by sliding up and down the periscope tube. Be aware that the guidestar may be distorted, but PHD2 will cope. Michael

I think the way it goes is: A Full Spectrum mod will pick up the IR that many stars radiate. On a Refractor the IR will be slightly out of focus compared to the visual band light, so leads to bloated stars. On Reflectors (including SCTs) all wavelengths are focused, so IR filter is not required. Michael

Yes Nicolas, I misread the Binning, my Bad. Michael

To me your installation looks electrically dangerous, particularly as you say the roof is currently leaking: The Power Supply needs a waterproof enclosure. Dew or rain will run down your cables into the mini-PC. The mains outlets are for indoor use only. Michael

If I've read your post correctly, you're using a 400mm scope with a 3.92um pixel camera, binned 2X ? Imaging scale is then 4.04arcsecs/pixel. Would that give fat round stars........? Or dew due to the cooling? Michael

On the bottom line of the PHD2 screen grab there is "Dark" displayed in red. This means you haven't created, or aren't using, a Dark Library for the guidecam, so locking onto hot pixels etc is a strong possibility........ Michael