Xay

Thank you. I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with mine too. I've tried everything and still doesn't track properly.

I've done this test a couple times during the day and it seems to be ok. The reference object is still at the center after rotating the scope, or very, very close to it.

Thanks Dave. This is what I've been doing so far but you've seen the results. I'm beginning to think there's something wrong with the tracker.

I haven't tried calibrating/colimating it yet! I was trying everything I could before trying that, also because I just bought it and it's still within the guarantee/warranty period.

A little, but not much! If you look at the photo I uncluded in my first post, you can see how they vary with exposure time.

Video 3 - Auriga - 55mm, 21 photos. 130 s exposure time each, ISO 400. tlapse_Auriga_55mm_recorte.mp4

Video 2 - Andromeda - 250 mm, 10 photos. 45 seconds exposure time, ISO 2000. Cropped to a small area near the center of the photo. tlapse_Andromeda_250mm_recorte.mp4

Hi everyone, Thanks a lot for all the replies. I've had a couple of good nights and could do a few more tests. I took a few series of photos both at 55mm and 250mm and made short time lapses to check how good the tracking is. Unfortunately, it looks very bad, the frames move A LOT in these short series, and not even in the same direction the whole time. I thought I was doing everything correctly, but at this point I'm not sure if it's me or there's a problem with my SWSA. Any comments on these videos would be greatly appreciated. I did turn off the IS on the camera and used non-reachargeable batteries this time, just to test if they were the problem. Video 1 - Pleiades - 250 mm, 12 photos total, each one has 1 min exposure time and ISO 800. I cropped the photos to a small area around the center. tlapse_Pleyades_250mm_recorte.mp4

I finally had time to do the indoor test that Dave suggested. I set everything up on Tuesday night and let it run for 24 hours minus 4 minutes. I put a sheet of graph paper on the wall, approximately 15-20 cm in front of the camera, so I could compare the grid between the first and the last photo and measure how big the difference was. I took 7 photos in the last minute, and the video below shows the grid from the first photo, in gray, and the grid in each of these photos, with the original colors. It seems the maximum difference with the first photo is less than 1 mm, but it also looks like it reverses the rotation direction halfway???? I'm 100% sure the photos are in the right order. I'll do some more indoor tests (weather has been bad lately) to investigate a bit more this rotation reversal problem. What do you think? output_video.mp4

Mine are 2800 mAh

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I couldn't run any tests yesterday, but I will try today. Chefgage, don't worry, I understand you're trying to help and you need to rule out all possibilities. The clutch ring is sometimes quite tight, so that could be a problem. I'll try loosening it up a little. The button is set to North indeed and the tracker is set to star setting. Dave, did you just choose one of the other speeds in the dial or did you change the tracking velocity in a more complicated way? I haven't tried comparing a sequence of photos to check whether the tracking speed is wrong, but I can easily do that next time. What do you think about the rechargeable batteries? Could they be a problem?

Hi Dave, I know very long exposures with long lenses are not possible with the SA, but I am getting traces with 10 second long exposures!!! I expected to be able to get at least a minute or two with the 250mm lens. It seems all the screws are tight, so I'll try the tracking test with my laser pointer. Thanks!

Hello everyone, First post here. I recently got the Skywatcher Star Adventurer Pro pack and I've spent the last few weekends trying to use it for photography with a 55-250 mm lens and my DSLR (Canon EOS 80D). I watched lots of tutorials on how to properly set up the tracker and do the polar alignment and I also read the manual. Still, I am getting star traces in my photos instead of pointy stars and I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if there's a problem with my SA. These are the steps I am following: 1) Set tripod and equatorial wedge up facing north. Set latitude and level. (I have a relatively heavy Manfrotto tripod) 2) Install tracker body on the wedge and camera directly on the declination bracket/fine tuning mounting assembly. Use the counterweight and extension arm to level. 3) Polar alignment. First, I place the reticle correctly (0 up and 6 down) using the graduated cirlces, as explained in the manual. Then, I use the Polar Scope align pro app and the screws on the equatorial wedge to place Polaris on the reticle as accurately as possible. 4) Frame target and check that Polaris is still where it's supposed to be. I check the difference in RA between my initial set up and the current one to calculate the RA rotation and I input this number into the Polar Scope align pro app to see where Polaris should be on the rotated reticle. It's normally still in the right place, but sometimes it does move a little (less than half a fraction of a division in the reticle). 5) Start taking photos. The pic has some examples from last night. There was a full Moon, so I am certain the only star I was seeing through the polar scope was Polaris. There was no wind whatsoever. Throughout the session, Polaris did not move from where it was supposed to be (I checked regularly). Something that I find really intriguing is that I seem to be getting almost equally long traces every time (!!!), regardless of how long my exposure times are, up until 3 mins or so. This makes me think the problem is in my camera, but I have tried using mirrow lockup and the self-timer and I still get these traces (I always use an external intervalometer/controller to shoot, I don't touch the camera). I use rechargeable 1.2V batteries, could this be the problem? (I've heard they're not recommended if you have heavy equipment). The other thing I've thought of is that my 55-250 lens does not have its own mount/base, so there's a fair amount of weight off the declination bracket. Any ideas on what may be wrong here will be greatly appreciated!