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Not sure but don't you need to use EQMod….

Keep coming back to look at this image. Really like both but would probably settle for a midway version...

Great image Rodd. It's Sh2-298 or NGC 2359 or IC 468....

I'll do it for free 😇

And another thread: Not so good this one but the key is aligning the polar axis - there are a number of phone apps that tell you where polaris should be when you look through the polar scope. Note though that the phone app may have two modes: visual and telescope - choose telescope. You will also need to check the polar scope alignment within the mount (any mount will need this doing). Any questions fire away. Good luck with choosing a mount

Here's a test with the SA Pro pack I did with a 400mm lens:

Some really superb images being posted on this forum in all sections. There a quite a few I would like to emulate and see what sort of result I can get with my kit and available time. However, some of the images are posted without any form of identification or they've been given a common, non catalogue ID making it impossible to find - especially for newer imagers. I hope I label mine whether they are a more common target or not - would be great if everyone added a simple catalogue reference like an: NGC####, IC##, Sh2-###, M### … That would make it easy to locate on a planetarium or star map. Thanks Francis

Depends on what you intend putting on the mount. Astro Pack? don't know that - is that a USA version? I have the SA Pro Pack which allows me to put any thing from a wide angle camera lens/body combinations up to (in my case) the William Optics ZS73 with a camera body successfully. This thread may help scroll down to almost the last image:

The iEQ 45 Pro was firmware updatable as are the CEM's. Be aware I queried the firmware shown on the handset with the firmware shown on the iOptron website - iOptron will install the latest firmware to the mount at the factory but they just don't update the website. The website shows an older firmware version. Firmware numbers are in a date format so you can see which is the later version. If you use the handset you will find various ways to set your PA - it's a great mount.

Don't know the A7ii but if it's full frame you will need the flat73A field flattener to cover the full size sensor. I have a ZS73 but need the flat 73A to cover my FX chipped Nikon.

I don't think so. You need the straight through version to convert to a guide scope from a finder.

An Update: I'm enjoying OSC imaging with this camera. Few problems with dark frames to start with but found that (in PI) when doing an 'Image Calibration' not to check the boxes under the Master Dark for calibration and optimisation. It's really checking the optimisation box that causes the amp glow problem. I've also had to change my PI process routine a little. At present I'm using SG Pro for capture and setting gain at 122 with off-set to 30. Exposures with this camera seem much shorter than I would use with the SX Trius 825 CCD. Obviously exposure length will depend on the subject but I'm talking in relative terms about exposures being shorter. For obects like M20, NGC6960 etc the 3, 5 and 10 mins are quite normal. With M27 I can add 2 min subs as it is quite a bright subject. My skies aren't too polluted (Bortle 4) and I shoot with a 1¼" Baader UV/IR cut filter as close to the sensor as I can (The camera came with a 1¼" - 42mm adapter - I can fit the filter into the sensor side of the adapter that puts it almost onto the sensor window), I get a small (very small) vignette from the 1¼" filter which either ABE or DBE remove in the absence of a flat field master. The camera is used predominately with my Altair 115 EDT-APO and Plano star 1x FF but also with a William Optics ZS 73 APO + Flat73A FF Images: M20 a reprocess of a 294MC Pro + 115 EDT APO sub set (300s subs x 6) minor crop to remove alignment error. NGC 7331 & Co 4x 180s subs - full framing Once darker skies return I'll give a further update plus I've just ordered a new scope so see how well the two go together... Francis

Your obviously having problems. You've got your mount now pointing to polaris with Polemaster, have you tried to drift align the mount with PHD and ignoring polemaster? With my old iEQ 45 Pro Polemaster gave mediocre results. Are your stars the same shape across the frame, longer one side/corner than the other. Personally I think your PA is off line which may be due to the problems in locating the Polemaster adapter and securing Polestar itself in the adapter. Your PHD graph is not that bad, certainly those errors would be guided out. I used PHD's drift align routine to set mine up because I can't see the pole star. That took a few iterations but it has been well worth it. I found the adjusters for azimuther awkward and used an allen (hex) key to allow small adjustments when I got near. If you try PHD's drift align don't be put off by the erratic movement of the dec line when you start the 'drift' measurement it needs 30 secs or so to settle and show its basic direction. Longer is better once your homing in of final adjustments. My CEM60 Standard is a pleasure now it's PA is properly aligned. Good luck, it's frustrating when stuff doesn't live up to expectations out of the box. Francis

Nah - retractable optics

M20 & Co are now too far west (neigbour's house) before dark so put this data to one side ready for next year...

Thanks Alan. I love Olly's work - I try to avoid it as it puts me off mine... 🤫

Look who's moved in 👍

Well I've been trying many different processing options and found (I think) my problem lies in the Image Calibration stage when Master dark Calibrate and Optimise are checked I get amp glow, with these un checked amp glow disappears. Also tried with one or the other checked and turns out that it's the Optimisation that's causes the amp glow to show. The images below are tight crops from the area of worse amp glow in my images (full frame also included). Now this is strange because previously I have been following Warren Keller's routine and in that he says to check calibrate and optimise but to set the optimise level at zero? Does this mean that something is happening even when setting optimise to zero?

Hi James - Yes bought a set this week but they don't go over the 42mm T threads - hole too small 😧

Love the FoV with the 73 and it's flattener. I have then same but use a 294MC Pro for OSC. Great image. Like the full frame.

Clouded out after 4 x180sec subs on this so a wip WO ZS 73+Flat73A CEM60 Standard (guided) ASI 294MC Pro -20°C (122 gain 30 Offset) Quick process in PI

As a local (Hereford) can I come along without having to book a pitch etc...

Thanks Both, I think I've watched all Dylan's videos on the RASA and Trevor's backyard stuff plus quite a few other videos. I've read numerous threads on CN too. I'm sure I will end up buying one (hopefully before the £ is worth < $). There are other things like filter drawers, dew shields etc to research...

@vlaiv - Will try that out

An STF on the dark master and same on a single sub...