toxic

and if you use photoshop you can get a free set of plugins from google called NIK collection they are very good i used it on your image as well as HLVG as andy r said.

beautiful

just an example of what you can see after capture i am not good with maths. the 10s Quattro is fitted with the Sky-Watcher f4 Aplanatic Coma Corrector and the 200 pds F5 was fitted with the sky-watcher 0.9x coma corrector. so more or less the same f ratio and tube length, so you would think they would perform very similarly but in real world they do not. 2 sample pics un edited just converted from fits to jpeg for posting. image 1 in ---- Quattro 10s ---120 seconds atik 383L+m. image 2 in ------- image 200pds 300 seconds atik 383L+m all other kit is the same

hi BigPaddy when balancing you need to have the weighted end heavier while travelling up, and and lighter when travelling down so as to get rid of any back lash hope this helps but to be honest with you 600mm fl is asking a lot for the S A well most mounts really unguided to shoot at that F L then you need a guide scope and guide camera.

now then that's a corker

thanks alacant and even at 10 inch i struggle to finish an image up here in cloudy Darlington but i am still amazed at what you can get from your own back garden even with limited sky and weather that's why i keep going hopefully i can add to the image before it disappears for another year.

the primary mirror baffle is just a ring that covers the mirror clips to stop the dark spikes it will do nothing for the diffraction spikes caused by your secondary mirror supports and i have not found any thing wrong with the 10s quattro focuser so no need to spend unless you find a problem.

i went for the 10 inch Quattro because the 12 inch didn't come with baffles and it would help cut down the light incursion down the tube and help in better contrast as i live where there is lots of street lights i haven't had much chance to complete an image due to other issues (and cloud) but it it is a very good scope when combined with the SW Aplanatic CC. setup consists of SW AZ EQ6GT - SW QUATTRO 10S - SW APLANATIC CC - ATIK 383L+ MONO - EFW2 with 36mm unmounted LRGB HA OIII S2 FILTERS all in a home made dome. only 1 sample image to date it is 11 x 120 second HA total = 22 minutes stacked in dss and converted for posting. hope this is some help.

isn't Han1 = to Han solo

just as-or more importantly what mount do you have to track or guide with as it wont matter to much what camera you use if it wont stay on target, i have found in hindsight that mount - camera - scope in that order. but it depends on what you want to do deep sky or widefield or planetary but dont let this put you off as any camera that has the ability to take long exposures and a lense on a cheap mount will do to start.

i use a the atik 383L mono now for most astro stuff ,but i still use the eos 200d non moded for widefield your micro fourthirds would be best for smaller deep sky objects or planets and the 750d for more wider shots dependent on the scope used.

you should be ok with the 0.9 version if your scope is F5 or slower but F4 and you will struggle to get a flat field i have a SW 200pds with the 0.9 cc and it was fine but it is no good on my SW 250 Quattro i had to get the SW aplanatic cc hope this helps.

i had an eos 10D back in 2011 it was what i had to start with here is a single exposure from it in 2012 no processing at all strait from the camera and at the time i didn't shoot in raw it was just jpeg i didn't know any better that's one of the reasons i joined SGL hope this helps but if you all ready have it then use it.

lovely job Gina

very nice indeed Carol

beautiful capture and processing Tom

sorry i dont know if there is but i stack them separately in DSS but use the lowest score (right click on it and select reference file )as a reference file then each exposure stack is lined up ready to blend in in photoshop jus make shure you untick the reference file so it wont stack it but will still use it as a ref file.

who ever thought we would get 3 clear nights on the trot without a moon ?? managed these 2 apart from the terrible gradient (led street lights gave a blue glow) they didn't turn out to bad. M13 consists of lumin 30 - 60 - 120 - 180 - and 300 second subs 10 of each to not blow out the core and RGB are 120 seconds each with 20 for each chanel. M51 consists of 25 x 300 seconds of L and 30 x 120 seconds of RGB each chanell stacked in deep sky stacker and processed in photoshop thanks for looking and all cc welcome

hope some one can help how can i put the field of view into astrotortilla from the field of view calculator in the picture ,i can find the the appropriate part to input the fov but cannot find anything any where near my fov in the astrometry part thanks in advance.

oh i have done every one of them and more than once. i can see the funny side now but not so much at the time, and it dosnt end there i still do it and hows this one i did a whole session of rgb and forgot the give the files ther respective R-G-B NAMES GRRRR that took some sorting out lol.

thanks Tooth its a great camera i did think i was going to need a new one but it was my power supply so its a new psu instead few

thank you any image we take is amazing as the object shares its light with every camera pointed in its direction now you cant get fairer than that 😀

Orion nebula 24th Feb 32 minutes total exposure - 8 minutes each channel -LRGB 30 second per exposure and 30 flats and 30 darks stacked in DSS and combined in Photoshop. i think i have a bit of tilt at the top 2 corners i hope its the last job to sort out. Atik 383l+M - Quattro 10s - azeq6 - efw2

i would be well happy with that image well done indeed

very nice indeed Carol