130p let down

[Alienfox]

So, I have now had my 130p for a couple of months, got all the equipment I need to start some imaging using my Nikon 200D, watched some videos on youtube, spoke to the guy who sold me the add-ons I needed to get the images,.  Last night was so clear I thought this is it, this is my chance to try all thenow stuff I got in the post this week.

Absolutely nothing, I tried everyting, still nothing, is it me? No, it's the scope, apparently I have no chance of using my camera with this scope, so where do I go from here, I'm a Photographer Film Maker, I also teach Photography and Film Making, so you can imagine my disappointment last night, mybe I need a bigger different scope?   

[paul mc c]

What mount do you have the scope on ?

[Tinker1947]

You will need the P-DS version to get your DSLR to focus, there's not enough inward travel on a normal 130......

[steppenwolf]

This is a common issue with this telescope - there simply isn't enough inwards focus movement to achieve focus with a typical DSLR camera.

There are some potential solutions:-

1. install a low profile focuser - but this could easily cost more than the telescope itself

2. move the primary mirror up the tube towards the front of the telescope to move the focus position further outside the side of the tube - this can be done successfully especially if extended adjustment bolts are used but the secondary mirror will then be too small for the wider light cone this achieves at the intercept point so the images could be overly vignetted

3. attaching a Barlow lens to the DSLR *may* allow focus to be achieved but:-

    a. try one before you buy

    b. you will have magnified images which reduce the field of view

    c. you will be inserting additional optical elements in the light path which could have a detrimental effect on image quality

[paraletic mirror]

I shoot all my images with a 130p, granted I had to move the Mirror up about 40mm but this was not hard to do, I use a eos 300d while it's not the best camera or the most sensitive it works great on the moon and some of the brighter deep sky objects, before I moved the mirror I tried sawing of about 7mm of the actual focusermbut was not enough, I found the Barlow only moved the focal point as far as the length of the actual Barlow tube didn't try a short one such as a Meade,

If you move the mirror I can't see you having any problems shooting better images than my 300d can take seen as it a better camera,

The 130p I have found to be a great scope and I'm sure a few others on here will stat the great success there having with the pds version some of the image taken by a few members such as uranium are stunning.

Both the 130p and 130pds use exactly the same mirror, so I have to say its not your scope it's you

Atb para

[Chris]

Its bad luck but yes the 130p is one of the few that doesn't achieve focus with a DLSR without modding or barlowing. Others from Skywatcher include the old blue tube models.

Ones that do work include the black tube 150p, 200p etc plus all of the pds models, 130pds, 150pds etc.

I've imaged with all the above and can highly recommend the 130pds at 159 pounds, I'm thinking of getting another one

[D4N]

To be fair skywatcher say: "ideal for astrophotography" in their blurb about this scope. They also include a T2 thread on the focuser. What they fail to mention is how much effort it takes to make a DSLR focus on it. It's no wonder so many people are disappointed when they try to use this scope for DSLR imaging.

I don't doubt that a good retailer would advise any would be imagers of this shortfall if asked but it's just a pity SW don't make it more obvious in the product spec, or provide more focuser travel.

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[paraletic mirror]

To be fair skywatcher say: "ideal for astrophotography" in their blurb about this scope. They also include a T2 thread on the focuser. What they fail to mention is how much effort it takes to make a DSLR focus on it. It's no wonder so many people are disappointed when they try to use this scope for DSLR imaging.

I don't doubt that a good retailer would advise any would be imagers of this shortfall if asked but it's just a pity SW don't make it more obvious in the product spec, or provide more focuser travel.

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That's all they want is for you to spend more

Atb para

[knobby]

If this was new and advertised in such a way to imply a DSLR can be easily attached ... I'd back it !

[steppenwolf]

Both the 130p and 130pds use exactly the same mirror, so I have to say its not your scope it's you

I beg to differ, it is not the OP it is the OP's focuser .......

[ronin]

They used to say that you could attach a DSLR, that does not strictly mean take an image with the thing.

The 130P is a visual scope and if you want to image with it then something has to move so that the focal plane is further out from the axis of the tube then it presently is, or the camera has to get in closer. It is sort of converting it from visual to imaging as it's primary function.

The first means moving the mirror up the tube a bit (not sure how much but guess 20-25mm), that puts the focal plane of the mirror the corresponding distance further out.

To get the DSLR further in means a lower profile focuser.B

Bigger scope is not relevant, the f number is, image size may be an issue on some objects, M1 is small and a small focal length equals a small image.

Why the 130P if you are a photographer?
Just seems that a refractor would be more in line with the equipment that you presently use, and so more familiar terriatory.

Which DSLR are you using?

Internal filtering is different.

[Steve Ward]

I can't find anything anywhere that states that the 130P is suitable for AP , or that it comes supplied with a t-adapter ... the 130PDS yes but not the 130P ... 

[paraletic mirror]

I beg to differ, it is not the OP it is the OP's focuser .......

How? @steppenwolf , I've the same focuser, I didn't need to saw of the 10mm from mine It was just the first idea I had as it would give me enough inward travel, it wasn't till I did some research about moving the mirror that I thought "I shouldn't of done that"

It wasn't ment to sound sarcastic or disrespectful btw

Atb par

[Alienfox]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the replies.

Paul, it has an eq2 with a motor drive

Steppenwolf, went the barlow route.

Parraletic Mirror, Maybe a mirror move, not sure.

Starfox, mine is the blue tube version.

Knobby, I bought the scope second hand, it was a good price and in mint condition, the guy said he had taken images with the scope, he showed me Saturn and Jupiter, not great images but images none the less, I now realise he used a webcam.  Maybe I will ebay it and get a 200p instead, I assume all the add-ons i purchased will fit the 200p?

[Tinker1947]

A 200p will be a bit on the big side for a EQ2, you would need a EQ5 or better still a HEQ5....

[D4N]

I can't find anything anywhere that states that the 130P is suitable for AP , or that it comes supplied with a t-adapter ... the 130PDS yes but not the 130P ...

http://www.skywatcher.com/product.php?cat=4&id=43

There on the SW website.

It doesn't state about the T2 thread on that page but it is there none the less.

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[steppenwolf]

Maybe I will ebay it and get a 200p instead, I assume all the add-ons i purchased will fit the 200p?

A 200p will be a bit on the big side for a EQ2, you would need a EQ5 or better still a HEQ5....

Ah, yes, the AP slippery slope :grin: . Stop for a short while and think carefully about exactly what it is you want to achieve from AP. The 200P is an excellent 'scope (I have one and have had some great results from it) but it does have a 1000mm focal length so you need to consider whether this is suitable for the types of objects that you want to image.

For deep sky AP, the mount is everything, the optics are secondary to the endeavour!

[Chris]

Hi, if you are using a light duty EQ2 with clock drive I would try and keep the scope as light as possible plus the focal length as short as possible to reduce the effect of tracking errors. As you are a photgrapher, would it be a good idea to stick a DSLR plus lens on the EQ2, 200mm lenses frame a lot of objects nicely  

For a 200p with its weight and 1000mm focal length you would need minimum of HEQ5 with higher payload and accurate stepper motors to have an easier life. Having said this, some folks have produced nice images with the 200p on an eq5 woth RA clock drive but its not as easy with tracking errors, backlash, and wind catching the large 200p tube.

[Chris]

I can recommend a good Astrophotography book aimed at the beginner. Its called Making Every Photon Count by Steve Richards. Just click on the link at the bottom of Steppenwolf's sig

[nigelbeaumont]

The EQ2 that came with the scope will need a bit of modding to mount a DSLR if it was the old blue tube version (this was my first scope), as the tube rungs bolt onto a plate which in turn bolts onto the mount. I replaced this plate with a 4" x 5" x 3/4" aluminium bar (£5 off eBay) and bolted an ADM adaptor from FLO to it so I could mount anything with a dovetail bar. Bought the taps and drills from Cromwell Tools (loads of branches round the country and good prices) and stainless steel bolts off eBay. Total cost about £35

[stevepenny]

http://www.skywatcher.com/product.php?cat=4&id=43

There on the SW website.

It doesn't state about the T2 thread on that page but it is there none the less.

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Hi All,

To be fair to SW the 130p is suitable for astrophotography; but maybe not with a DSLR.  A web-cam can achieve focus with the sensor 5-10mm outside of the focuser tube.  I guess that a DSLR with an adaptor etc will end up with the sensor much further out and thus too far away from the FP.

. 

[Astro_Baby]

Well you can do AP of a limited sort with the old 130 scope, you can use afocal and webcam as far as I know. I did some bog basic afocal with mine on planets so the blurb isnt exactly dishonest.

I think the problem here is that many people, especially if they have a photographic background, are somewhat surpised at what you need for astro work. I know I was as an ex pro/am lens person. I imagined all you would neeid was a DSLR and a scope.....when I realised just how much kit was needed i just decided not to bother. I had some prior experience way back with blacl and white film on manually guided scopes way back in the 1970s......yes you really can do that and some people back then did it really well too.

A 200 scope will no way work on an EQ2 and for imaging you would need something much more solid, i would suggest an HEQ5 as a minimum but then I am not expert on astroimaging at all.

[Jesterowl]

I only manage focus on the 130P by using the barlow.

no problems with the 200P  

[Hackleby]

Ah, yes, the AP slippery slope :grin: . Stop for a short while and think carefully about exactly what it is you want to achieve from AP. The 200P is an excellent 'scope (I have one and have had some great results from it) but it does have a 1000mm focal length so you need to consider whether this is suitable for the types of objects that you want to image.

For deep sky AP, the mount is everything, the optics are secondary to the endeavour!

Totally agree here, you first need to decide what you want to photograph. If its planets then stick with what you have and use a web cam and software such as RegiStax. Get a feel for your set up and push it to its maximum. If your after DSO's such as galaxies and nebula then you need to beef up the mount to be able to accurately track over long periods and carry the additional weight of both a larger scope, DSLR camera and possibly auto guider. I too have a 200p and its a fantastic scope but found that for DSO imaging in an exposed field I had to go from the supplied EQ5 to NEQ6 to cut out all the hassle that the modest of breezes would cause.  I still suffer with the NEQ6 to a degree but it is less frustrating, also pier mounting may be in order depending on what exactly your after achieving.    

[Lodds]

You will need the P-DS version to get your DSLR to focus, there's not enough inward travel on a normal 130......

I'm also considering a SW130, 150 or a 200.  Forgive my ignorance but what has a mount do with the focus of a camera?  I'm sure it is obvious but for me it is not