tracking with a camera only setup

[Elm0]

Any tip on alignment or tracking with just a camera set up on a heq5.

I've tried putting the camera on the rings with scope attached but scope too big and block bottom of the picture.

Do I need to set up the scope and align first, then replace the scope with a camera?

[Alien 13]

I have often wondered how people do this myself but what i would do is fit a long dovetail with a camera ball head at one end for the camera and a finder scope fitted at the other end.

Alan

[bogdog]

if you have a tripod for your camera that has the quick release plate on it,then remove scope and replace with the camera with attached plate

it fits ok just dont overtighten it as its plastic,would polar align scope first but be carefull when removing it or you might nudge tripod off

[Elm0]

I have the heq5 pro which come with a small dovetail. Too small for a 200p.

I did use this along with a ball head but this alone is a nightmare to do a 3 star alignment. Well if you do its not going to be accurate enough for a long exposure.

I've seen many pictures of dslrs attached directly to these mounts by no explanation on how they align with just that setup.

[Geuse]

Been scratching my head on this one also!

[Alien 13]

I have the heq5 pro which come with a small dovetail. Too small for a 200p.

I did use this along with a ball head but this alone is a nightmare to do a 3 star alignment. Well if you do its not going to be accurate enough for a long exposure.

I've seen many pictures of dslrs attached directly to these mounts by no explanation on how they align with just that setup.

I agree, i use a camera on my mount sometimes but PA is done with the polarscope  but that is the same for me regardless of whats on the mount.

The camera liveview could take the place of the  scope for alighnment purposes if the ISO is cranked up to max etc, i know that i can see very faint stuff in mine.

Alan

[Elm0]

I agree, i use a camera on my mount sometimes but PA is done with the polarscope  but that is the same for me regardless of whats on the mount. The camera liveview could take the place of the  scope for alighnment purposes if the ISO is cranked up to max etc, i know that i can see very faint stuff in mine. Alan

That seems like the only logical answer. Just don't see it being a long exposure answer!

[Psychobilly]

If i'm using my EQ3 Pro with a DSLR and shortish FL lenses ( less than 150mm) I will tend to just PA the mount using the Polarscope , then skip the Star alignment alltogether  and manually enabling Sidereal rate tracking , I then point the camera at the target using a starmap and RDF fitted in the Hotshoe... I use a Ball and Socket head as this allows the camera to be pointed anyhwere in the sky without slewing the mount and is very useful for imaging through the meridian without need to "flip"...

Ball and socket heads can introduce "flex"  but like all things you generally get what you pay for... for shorter FL they are usually no problem at all...

Larger lenses are usually mounted to a piece of Dovetail using the appropriate lens foot on the EQ-6 Pro...

If I need to use  start alignment  - with longer FL lenses with samll FOV where I will be using "goto" -  I tend  use the centre focus point in the viewfinder to  cover the alignment star...

here's a pic of one setup i used two cameras guided on a HEQ-5 this time)

Peter...

[Steve Ward]

Remember that Polar Alignment and Go-To Alignment are two completely different and totally unrelated things ... !

What you need to get right for imaging purposes is the Polar Alignment , which determines the length of exposure you can use without incurring strange shaped stars.

With the HEQ5Pro it is quite reasonable to expect to get good 3-4 minute un-guided subs with just a 200mm lens and an accurate PA.

Try the DARV method of Drift-alignment to really nail the PA ...  http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=2838

[Alien 13]

If i'm using my EQ3 Pro with a DSLR and shortish FL lenses ( less than 150mm) I will tend to just PA the mount using the Polarscope , then skip the Star alignment alltogether  and manually enabling Sidereal rate tracking , I then point the camera at the target using a starmap and RDF fitted in the Hotshoe... I use a Ball and Socket head as this allows the camera to be pointed anyhwere in the sky without slewing the mount and is very useful for imaging through the meridian without need to "flip"...

 

Ball and socket heads can introduce "flex"  but like all things you generally get what you pay for... for shorter FL they are usually no problem at all...

 

Very impressive set up i do think that you have answered a very fundamental question regarding DSLR and widefield imaging  

Larger lenses are usually mounted to a piece of Dovetail using the appropriate lens foot on the EQ-6 Pro...

 

If I need to use  start alignment  - with longer FL lenses with samll FOV where I will be using "goto" -  I tend  use the centre focus point in the viewfinder to  cover the alignment star...

 

here's a pic of one setup i used two cameras guided on a HEQ-5 this time)

 

 

 

Peter...

Very impressive set up i do think that you have answered a very fundamental question regarding DSLR and widefield imaging i do agree that the camera ball head is a must for good framing of the subject in view.

Alan

[Elm0]

Thanks the sidereal seems to answer my question. Still getting used to the synscan so will have a play with it.

[JamesF]

I use a ball-head on a short dovetail too.  Works very nicely.  As I have a Canon camera I use APT to control that and use APT's built-in DARV option to do polar alignment.  I can't recall the last time I used the polar scope.

James

[Alien 13]

I would be lost without my polarscope i dont do bat masks or any usb conections to my camera either but then again im wierd.

Alan

[Elm0]

Remember that Polar Alignment and Go-To Alignment are two completely different and totally unrelated things ... ! What you need to get right for imaging purposes is the Polar Alignment , which determines the length of exposure you can use without incurring strange shaped stars. With the HEQ5Pro it is quite reasonable to expect to get good 3-4 minute un-guided subs with just a 200mm lens and an accurate PA. Try the DARV method of Drift-alignment to really nail the PA ...  http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=2838

Yes, I understand the difference in polar alignment. I've been using the hour angle method using the synscan readings when you first set up the coordinates etc. I was on the impression that's quite accurate?

The drift alignment seems quite complicated but will give it a try....thanks

[JamesF]

The drift alignment seems quite complicated but will give it a try....thanks

It sounds far harder than it is, to be honest.  The DARV method makes it very simple.  My only problem with it is that I can never remember which way to move the mount (more north/south, or more east/west) based on the trace left in the calibration image so I usually have to try one way and then do another run to check if that was right.  It works nicely though.

James

[Elm0]

It says a gem needs different corrections...In what way?

Sorry if I sound dumb!

[JamesF]

It says a gem needs different corrections...In what way?

I'm not sure what he means by that.  You still have to adjust alt and az based on the size of the V shape.  Perhaps he means you have to make the changes in the opposite direction or something.  From a quick scan through the piece I can't see if he's talking about a fork-mounted scope with or without a wedge.  I'd guess the results with a wedge should be the same as with a GEM, but I'm not sure about without.

James

[rob0971]

I started out with a 600 mm lens on a cg5- GT mount. I used a short dovetail bolted to the tripod foot & mounted it straight into the clamp. As for alignment, I used the centre focus point too align stars for the GOTO. I found that was more than accurate enough at that focal length. As already said, a good polar alignment is must for any lens/scope to track properly.

[Elm0]

I'm not sure what he means by that.  You still have to adjust alt and az based on the size of the V shape.  Perhaps he means you have to make the changes in the opposite direction or something.  From a quick scan through the piece I can't see if he's talking about a fork-mounted scope with or without a wedge.  I'd guess the results with a wedge should be the same as with a GEM, but I'm not sure about without. James

He used a fork mount in that article. I'll give it a try and see what he means.

Thanks for all your input peeps.

[ollypenrice]

Sorry, I missed the later pages and can't add anything! Mods remove at will!!! 

Olly 

[bogdog]

here is a better explanation of drift alignment for eq mount

http://www.backyardastronomy.net/drift_alignment.html

[Astrosurf]

I've asked about this when I wanted to guide with just my camera, but can't remember! I think a side-by-side bar was suggested. I think you'd need to rotate dec through 90 degrees.

http://astronomia.co.uk/index.php/accessories/mount-accessories/mount-hardware/altair-starwave/alt-sw-dual-vbar-230mm.html

Alexxx

[Elm0]

Can it be done without a scope though?

[Astrosurf]

Yes it can, that's what the side-by-side bar is for. I suspect you just fix the central dovetail directly onto your mount and then fix the camera and guider onto the arms on short dovetails. You'd need to turn dec through 90 degrees. I've not tried it myself. I'm sure someone will be along in a mo to explain better than me!