Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Chris]

Or bend the tip of a fine pointed soldering iron to 90 degrees. You could then use this to melt the glue under the glass?

how about combining heat from a fine tip soldering iron 45 degrees to the work with mechanical scraping with a blade?

Edited August 21, 2013 by starfox

[Psychobilly]

There's an interesting "3D" diagram of a canon microlensed sensor which shows the optical and electronic "structure" which I found earlier today but I can't remember the search terms ..

I will pick it up form my browsing history tomorrow and post a link... It was on a US BnW and IR modifiying site where the moded cameras cost a fortune - A Mono 5D Mk III was nearly $7k ...

Found it...

http://www.maxmax.com/b&w_conversion.htm

Peter...

[Gina]

Yes, I remember seeing that one but I too couldn't remember where.

[Gina]

Or bend the tip of a fine pointed soldering iron to 90 degrees. You could then use this to melt the glue under the glass?

It would have to be ground to a very sharp edge, like a knife. I could get only the tip of a fine craft knife between glass and frame even after loosening the bond with heat.

[JamesF]

You don't think a heated nichrome wire would work? It wouldn't have to cross the face of the sensor at all, just the area where the glass is bonded.

James

[pixueto]

Dear all,

I've been working today on my 1000D sensor. I have used fine car windscreen polish and 99.999% pure isopropanol as suggested by Rotweiller. Initially, I tried to dilute the polish in the isopropanol but it wouldn't disolve so I ended up applying the polish with a sensor cleaning swab cut to half size and a microfiber pad. Then I cleaned the area with another sensor swab soaked in isopropanol. The isopropanol is brilliant for cleaning the sensor; I thoroughly recommend it. After the procedure, the sensor still works and I managed to remove most of the CFA leftovers but, I must say, that I didn't apply myself very hard to that. I wanted to know if I could clean the sensor and remove the bayer matrix leftovers with those 'ingredients'. I also wanted to know if I could do it without damaging the sensor. So, it can be done and this is the positive aspect of all of this.

However....

Somehow I didn't manage to polish the sensor evenly. There is a band from left to right in the middle of the sensor which went deeper than the rest. I don't understand very well how this happened as I applied equal pressure in all areas. This band is very obvious when you inspect the sensor visually but it wouldn't come up in the photos I took of the sensor. You can see it in the flat frame attached at F22. You can also see some scratches but I think those were there before I applied the polish.

I also attach two photos taken after the procedure. One at ISO 800 (the bottles), and the street one at ISO 1600. Both photos have been processed from raw files with DCRaw to avoid demosaicing.

I would very much welcome any comments. I wonder what would be the effect of the uneven sensor in the astrophotographies. Maybe someone with the knowledge can comment on how this can degrade the photos -I would imagine it will.

I also applied Dichloroethaneon my non-working 450D sensor to see if it would remove the CFA. I think we may be on to something good here as some bits of the CFA seem to have disappeared. Again, I applied the Dichloroethane with a sensor swab cut to half and a microfiber pad. I have the feeling that for this method to work, the sensor must be submerged in the Dichloroethane overnight. Any ideas about how something equivalent could be achieved without killing the sensor?

Edited August 21, 2013 by pixueto

[pixueto]

Do you think it's worth going for a H-alpha clip filter with that flat frame?

I'm a big fan of the canon 1100D for astrophotography. However, My advice would be to stick to the 1000D or 450D for this mod, at least until we understand what is causing all those sensor failures. In both the 1000D and 450D you can remove the glass without heat where there are more chances of being successful. Possibly, the 1000D would be the best candidate to perfect the procedure as the glass comes up relatively easier and it's cheaper. Once we have a method, my view is that it can be easily applied to the 450D. By the way, the 450D is a hell of a camera for astrophotography so nothing is lost here.

Edited August 21, 2013 by pixueto

[Gina]

Do you think it's worth going for a H-alpha clip filter with that flat frame?

I'm a big fan of the canon 1100D for astrophotography. However, My advice would be to stick to the 1000D or 450D for this mod, at least until we understand what is causing all those sensor failures. In both the 1000D and 450D you can remove the glass without heat where there are more chances of being successful. Possibly, the 1000D would be the best candidate to perfect the procedure as the glass comes up relatively easier and it's cheaper. Once we have a method, my view is that it can be easily applied to the 450D. By the way, the 450D is a hell of a camera for astrophotography so nothing is lost here.

Interesting comment Makes me wonder whether it would be worth buying a used 1000D to play with before continuing with my 1100D experiments. Need a lot of thought

[Gina]

You don't think a heated nichrome wire would work? It wouldn't have to cross the face of the sensor at all, just the area where the glass is bonded.

James

It might - I'll see what nichrome wire I have ATM. Worth a try I think.

[Chris]

I've just bought a 300D with extras including mould on the sensor for 29+10 postage, so it looks like I might be in the running

[Gina]

Well done Chris Welcome to our happy band of nutters :hello2:

I've just put bids in for another used 1100D and a used 1000D I reckon I shall have a large number of spare EOS parts for sale once I sort them all out and strip down the odd camera or two

Edited August 22, 2013 by Gina

[Chris]

Well done Chris Welcome to our happy band of nutters :hello2:

I've just put bids in for another used 1100D and a used 1000D I reckon I shall have a large number of spare EOS parts for sale once I sort them all out and strip down the odd camera or two

[Chris]

More DLSR's Gina! You've probably got more stock than some shops

[pixueto]

Would the Dichloroethane disolve the epoxy resin? I'm thinking about surrounding the sensor with a wall of epoxy so I can leave a pool of solvent over the sensor overnight.

[Chris]

Would the Dichloroethane disolve the epoxy resin? I'm thinking about surrounding the sensor with a wall of epoxy so I can leave a pool of solvent over the sensor overnight.

I'm not sure, but if you do give it a go don't do it indoors as this stuff can give off carbon monoxide as a by product and then there is the link to lung, liver and pancreas cancer! Yes I've been reading wiki

[pixueto]

I'm not sure, but if you do give it a go don't do it indoors as this stuff can give off carbon monoxide as a by product and then there is the link to lung, liver and pancreas cancer! Yes I've been reading wiki

Thanks starfox. Yes I've been doing all this in the garden with a paint mask on top of a surgical mask, goggles and nitrile gloves. That Dichloroethanething is freaking me out.

Edited August 22, 2013 by pixueto

[Chris]

Thanks starfox. Yes I've been doing all this in the garden with a paint mask on top of a surgical mask, goggles and nitrile gloves. That Dichloroethanething is freaking me out.

I think outside counts as a well ventilated area and with all the other precautions you're taking it sounds like you have all the bases covered

[Gina]

Glass cutter arrived this morning - now all I need is an 1100D sensor

[Luis Campos]

Hello all,

Good news everyone!!!!

Been checking for some info and found that this mate removed the cover glass with the help of some solvent....

Unforntunelly I doesn't describe what he use, but I guess I'll sign in this forum and ask...can't hurt right?

See here, scroll down a bit:

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1294283

He removed the cover glass out of a 350D sensor, the hardest one to remove.

BTW, I tryed Acetone on my last sensor, I lifted the corners and aplied some acetone on the cover glass to see if I could remove it...didn't work, there must be some other solvent that works, maybe benzine, petrol, or something like that.

Cheers,

[Luis Campos]

I will not sign there....too much info required for my taste, darn they allmost want to know my shoe size...please...

Let's start exploring solvents to remove the cover glass guys

cheers,

Edited August 22, 2013 by Luis Campos

[Chris]

Great stuff Luis so he used a strong thread and solvent which removed it with no problems, the thread bit is useful to know. When you join be sure to link this thread, some of the folk on there seemed to think he was mad so it would be funny to unleash this thread on them

Chris

[Gina]

I wonder if there's a solvent that would work with the 1100D sensor cover glass glue.

[Chris]

Gina, have you tested the glass cutter on any removed sensor glass to see how well it bites?

Chris

[Gina]

Gina, have you tested the glass cutter on any removed sensor glass to see how well it bites?

Chris

Not yet.

Two ticks later... it works quite well - it certainly cuts into the glass and I can apply quite a lot of pressure I used the largest piece of glass from the last sensor and two sheets of aluminium - a 5mm base and 1.5mm strip to hold the glass and guide the glass cutter. Looks promising

Edited August 22, 2013 by Gina

[Chris]

Not yet.

Two ticks later... it works quite well - it certainly cuts into the glass and I can apply quite a lot of pressure I used the largest piece of glass from the last sensor and two sheets of aluminium - a 5mm base and 1.5mm strip to hold the glass and guide the glass cutter. Looks promising

I think this could be a winner, I'm ordering one tonight whilst they still have some left at 2.99!