Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Gina]

Been checking up on the delivery of that 1100D for spares and the estimated delivery date is 27 Aug so I have a wait to put up with I have some other bids in but they aren't ending for a day or two.

[flolic]

Someone asked for flat frame from my camera:

https://dl.dropboxus...flat_newton.jpg

This is one stretched flat frame through my 8" f6 Newton (that's the reason for some vignetting).

[pixueto]

Interesting comment Makes me wonder whether it would be worth buying a used 1000D to play with before continuing with my 1100D experiments. Need a lot of thought

Somehow the 1000D sensor seems more robust. I've been pretty ruthless debayering it first with the wooden tool and then the windscreen polish even on the edges and it's still working fine. Yes, I didn't go anywhere near the golden connectors yet because I want to see what works and what doesn't. If I hit a golden wire I'm going to be wondering what could have worked or spend more money on another camera/sensor. Also, you can buy 1000D sensors from ebay at £42 -but they come from USA, apparently.

The cover glass on my practice 450D sensor was removed pretty much intact too without applying any heat but it wasn't as easy as with the 1000D. Both the 1000D and 450D have similar CFA in terms of difficulty removing them.

Edited August 22, 2013 by pixueto

[pixueto]

Someone asked for flat frame from my camera:

https://dl.dropboxus...flat_newton.jpg

This is one stretched flat frame through my 8" f6 Newton (that's the reason for some vignetting).

It was me, thank you Filip. It looks really impressive! Congratulations!

Did you polish the sensor with something? Can you elaborate a bit on the procedure you followed?

Many thanks

[Gina]

WOW!! That flat looks perfect Brilliant job

I am going to have a go at debayering 1000Ds - there are far more of them going cheap than 1100Ds. My ultimate aim is still to debayer an 1100D sensor though.

[foundaplanet]

I've ordered a diamond glass cutter - should arrive Friday - http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ef11eb40d

I'm not sure how you will get on with a glass cutter alone. Is it your intention to remove a rectangle? This would be near impossible as you can only draw the cutter across the glass once for each pass as a second pass will blunt the cutter and repetitive cutting will not keep cutting through the glass. However, what you may be able to do is use the cutter to to give you four guiding lines. I have read that the glass is about 0.5mm. What you should be able to do once you have marked your glass with the cutter is use a triangular (barrette) diamond file (I would probably trying securing the sensor into some kind of jig, a piece of ply with some thin perspex screwed down to secure the sensor). You would probably be better off starting with a fine file and once you have made a reasonable impact you could then move on to a course one. I would think this should work leaving you a glass border to the open center. Use a vacuum to remove filings.

[Gina]

The glass cutter has a diamond tip and is not blunted by repeated glass cutting. I have already cut the cover glass several times with no problem.

[Gina]

Hmmm... 1000Ds are fetchinbg quite a high price considering what I want it for. Body only has just sold for nearly £115 and with kit lens for £160 I'm still watching a couple but I suspect the bids will shoot up at the end. I may have to abandon this idea and just go for duff 1100Ds for the sensor.

[Gina]

Nearly won one then - my max bid on 1000D with kit lens and nifty fifty was £150 (£11 carriage) and bid was £134 in the last second or two a bid went in at £185 Too much for me.

There's another one up finishing 11am tomorrow also with those two same lenses. I think I'll have one last go at working 1000Ds - I need a working one because I haven't got one ATM whereas I can go for non working 1100Ds.

Edited August 24, 2013 by Gina

[JamesF]

£185+£11 carriage seems a bit extreme to me for a 1000D and nifty fifty. Perhaps the weekend isn't the best time to be bidding on these things.

James

[Gina]

You could be right James. Anyway, I've put a max bid in and left it at that. I should have that duff 1100D coming Tuesday.

[pixueto]

I bought my 1000D for £120 Gina. I don't thing you'll get it much cheaper than that. However, second-hand 1000D sensors are sold at £42. You could buy a 1000D and if the mod goes wrong then replace the sensor for resell. You'd end up spending £42.

[Gina]

I bought my 1000D for £120 Gina. I don't thing you'll get it much cheaper than that. However, second-hand 1000D sensors are sold at £42. You could buy a 1000D and if the mod goes wrong then replace the sensor for resell. You'd end up spending £42.

Yes, I agree. I've put in a max bid of £150 with the thought that I could sell it on without much loss. I don't think I'd want to go any higher. I wonder how much a debayered 1000D would be worth

[pixueto]

Or you could then remove the IR filter on the sensor replacement and sell it to the amateur astronomers community; if the mod goes wrong, you could even make a small profit!

Now, I don't know how reliable those second hand sensor sellers from USA are.

Edited August 24, 2013 by pixueto

[Gina]

No, I wondered that too.

Edited August 24, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

I've found the piece of cover glass that shot off when I was removing it from the second 1100D sensor. Interestingly, it has what I think is a layer of "glue" on it. This is quite thick - about 0.2mm (the glass is 0.50mm). So I've started seeing if I've got anything that might dissolve it. First try IPA - doesn't touch it. No surprise there then I've got some paint stripper somewhere.

[Gina]

I've just checked the thickness of the thinnest nichrome I have and it's 0.44mm - twice the thickness of that "glue". Must check the ole wire tables and see what gauge wire it would want for the hot wire removal method.

This should do it :- http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=300951747278 Just a smidgen over 0.2mm. I think this would be safer that the glass cutter method.

Edited August 24, 2013 by Gina

[foundaplanet]

I've just checked the thickness of the thinnest nichrome I have and it's 0.44mm - twice the thickness of that "glue". Must check the ole wire tables and see what gauge wire it would want for the hot wire removal method.

This should do it :- http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=300951747278 Just a smidgen over 0.2mm. I think this would be safer that the glass cutter method.

Buy a file..

[Gina]

Very thin file

[Gina]

Well... I've just won myself a "Canon EOS 1000D Rebel XS 10.1 MP Digital SLR Camera with 18- 55 lens" for £142 plus £10 carriage. Royal Mail 1st Class so should coume in a few days.

[Tf2k]

Just to add the experience with the Nikon D40, the glue of the cover glass does not react to Dichlorethane.

But the CFA could be easily removed with the "Kent Carbon and Gasket Stripper" with Dichlorethane.

Besides that, i got no luck by removing the CoverGlass in one Piece, smashed it again.

Damaged one side of the blue frame and killed the Sensor with it. (only one half of the Sensor is working now... )

Now i have at least the proof, the CFA could be removed without the missing colour channels what appeared the last time.

stopping this project now, the budget has been drained.

Lets see when i get back to this...

I will keep on following this thread, especially to keep track with the progress on Ginas work.

[Tf2k]

Would the Dichloroethane disolve the epoxy resin? I'm thinking about surrounding the sensor with a wall of epoxy so I can leave a pool of solvent over the sensor overnight.

Yes, the Dichloroethane will dissolve the epoxy resin, at least it will make it weak... smeary.

Seen this on my experiments with it...

[Gina]

I will keep on following this thread, especially to keep track with the progress on Ginas work.

Thank you Sorry your efforts were to little avail Edited August 25, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

I've been playing with the duff 1100D sensor trying to remove the CFA. I tried the paint cutback paste with a wide flat tool - wouldn't touch it. Next I tried a cotton bud with no effect again. Even with quite high pressure the bud remained white! So I just scratched the surface with a bit of hard plastic to break the surface. Then I was able to remove the green CFA with just light pressure with the paint cutting paste and a cotton bud. As I proceeded I cleaned up every so often with IPA and dried with clean cotton bud. I found the CFA came off quite easily without appearing to make scratches and it cleaned off the surface scratches. Here's a pic.

[psemil]

Can you please make a test photo, Gina? I wold like to see the flat result...