Grouting pier to concrete base

[Bizibilder]

I've been looking around and cannot find an answer to this so:

I am about to cast a concrete block in the ground with appropriate bolts etc to attach to my steel pier. My question is:

What do I use to "grout" the top of the concrete so that it is a "perfect fit" for the flat steel plate at the base of the pier. I'm sure there must be a product available but as I'm not in the trade I have no idea what to ask for - is "waterproof grout" the stuff i need?

Thanks in anticipation.

[Psychobilly]

Self Levelling compound is pretty good....

[alfi]

hi

i also think some form of selflevelling compound, waterresistent, would be the way to go.

alfi

[barkis]

Why not place nuts and washers underneath the mounting plate, then use them and the ones on top to level the pier. No need for levelling compounds at all then. Use some compo to pack in any gaps between the baseplate and the Concrete pad.. If it is going to be exposed to the elements, then coat the base and immediate area with a bitument paint.

Ron.

[MikeD]

I used Self Levelling compound, worked well.

Mike.

[dark knight]

one of the best ways is to do the following, cast the concrete pad with bolts cast insitu, the top only has to be reasonably level, leave for a couple of days to harden. using thin steel spacer washers/shims slipped over the bolts and then the pier offered into position, the pier will sit on the washers, the pier top can then be levelled by adding or removing washers from the bolts. Once level is achieved tighten the pier down. Next is to fill the gap between the concrete and the pier base, this can be done by mixing neat cement with water to form a runny slurry which can then be poured/forced into the gap.

Doing it this way you are not dependant on getting the concrete perfectly level.

Hope it helps

[Jarndyce]

I believe it's considered best practice to level the base as best you can with levelling compound, but to make all levelling adjustments on the plate on the TOP of the pier. Small movements at the bottom are greatly amplified at the top of the pier, so it's quite difficult to make fine adjustments.

[red dwalf]

if you want the concrete flat, first make sure your form work is square and level to each other, after pouring use a long stright egde and keep tamping it down and moving it in a see saw fashion over the form work getting rid of the excess, keep doing to many times, leave for a while and then float the top with an old plasters float, you should end up very flat, sometimes using leveling compound it can still be alittle bit out if not mixed and floated properly

[Bizibilder]

Thanks to you all for the replies. My main concern was to prevent wobbling at the base of the pier - it seems to me that the washers/ cement slurry method would fit the bill. I have spoken to someone in the trade today - apparently there is no commercial product (apart form self levelling compounds) specifically made for this purpose.

I'm not too keen on self- levellers as they would not make a "perfect" contact with the steel plate and therefore could lead to slight movement.

I'm used to working in steel to engineering tolerences not builders ones!! My idea of flat is to better than a "thou" - builders seem happy at better than 1/8 inch!!!

[dark knight]

I totally agree,,it is the method used by commercial steel frame installers in the construction industry, I am a Building Control Surveyor and have inspected loads of steel frame buildings, the majority used this method.

[barkis]

This may have been already covered in this thread, if so, I apologise.

As long as the pier is very firmly anchored to the base, then being slightly off perpendicular won't matter at all, as long as final adjustments to the mount can be implementd at the top end.

A finer tuning is possible then.

Ron.

[Bizibilder]

I finally poured the pier base this afternoon. About 175Kg of concrete mixed by hand (Thats 27 stone to older folk!!). Anyway the bolts are in and all is looking well so far. I'm having the rest of the base laid professionally - its well over a ton of concrete.

I did calculate that the quote I had was LESS than the cost of materials, hiring a mixer and buying a wheelbarrow and mixing tray, shovel etc. I have found that contractors in Norfolk (and I suspect other rural areas) charge FAR less than those that rip you off in the Home Counties - where I used to live .

I just discovered how to add pics!! (by the way the base is 6x6 feet.) Other pics on Bizibilders Blog.