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Observatory electrics


Astroscot2

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Hello all, in the very early stages of building my own RORO observatory, Im at the stage now where im thinking about electrics as this could determine how I build the floor and position cables etc.

Im trying to keep it simple as possible as I dont normally tamper with anything electrical, last year I installed an outside socket which is cabled into my garage to an RCD. My plan is to change this to a double socket and run a length of armoured cable to a single waterproof socket connected to the pier. I would then plug in a multi socket extension what would go to a waterproof box on a trolley that I could shift around depending on where the scope is pointing; the trolley would house all the transformers for camera etc.

Ive realised I need to think about the 12v requirements to run the dew heaters and the mount, Ive read that a bench power PSU from Maplins would do the trick, however how do I attach the 3 cig adapters for the dew heaters and mount to the PSU - is there a simple adapter?

With regards to lights, im going to install a little solar powered unit which should suffice.

I also need to think about some sort of security alarm system, I would appreciate any simple recommendations and advice.

If anyone has any pointers I would appreciate it, id rather be prepared now than discover surprises when the build has finished.

Thanks

Mark

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There was a thread about this a few weeks ago... http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-astronomer/80598-cable-run-obs.html

Basically I think the consensus that we eventually reached was to try and keep it as a temporary install - plugs into an existing socket and your ok... as soon as you start hardwiring into exisitng circuits theres a whole host of regs that come into play...

You wont get much info posted about alarm systems on open forum... mines "protected" - do you have an existing alarm system in the house? reply by PM is prob the best bet...

Peter...

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Hi Mark,

Advice so far seems sound to me. If you are running the power supply from a socket outside then you should be ok.As Billy said, any hard wired supply from the main consumer unit to the Obsy is going to need an installation certificate otherwise you could run into house insurance problems.

You would need a fuse board in the Obsy if you needed to scale down the 30A socket supply to add lights. Or if you are using the supply from the house ring main then you may well already have RCD protection.

You can get stand alone alarm systems now that are battery operated, which maybe enough

Dave Moulton

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Yep 12v Maplins or Halfords multi sockets are the thing, I have loads dotted around the obs.

As for Obs leccy, you need 12v dc so why bother running mains and dropping it when theres all that lovely energy available from our nearest star:D My obs is solar. Stonking great battery with a couple of panels. I did it this way because mains leccy is unreliable around here and I didn't want power cuts affecting long exposures.

If I do need mains for anything I run an extension lead in from an external socket but thats not very often.

Philj

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With regard number and position of sockets.

1) Work out how many you're going to need before you start.

2) Double this number (no really, I mean it)

3) Try to run all your power and data cables undergound between the pier and any computer/junction box/socket. This avoids the otherwise inevitable scenario of constantly walking into cables in the dark.

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im in the middle of planning mine and the one factor i've pretty much decided on is that im installing a false floor. over a 6ft X 6ft area it should be possible to support it just at the edges using reasonably size beams. this will enable me to run all the mount / camera cables etc underneath out of the way of my clumsy feet and also will help isolate the pier from any vibration as it will pass through the floor to the real surface below. not that hard to make one of the floor pannels liftable and have a channel inside so cables can be accessed and altered etc.

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With regard number and position of sockets.

1) Work out how many you're going to need before you start.

2) Double this number (no really, I mean it)

3) Try to run all your power and data cables undergound between the pier and any computer/junction box/socket. This avoids the otherwise inevitable scenario of constantly walking into cables in the dark.

Sound advice - except I'd double the number again - no-one ever had enough power outlets.

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Sound advice - except I'd double the number again - no-one ever had enough power outlets.

a cousin of mine who works used to work with nuclear power stations built his own 3 bedroom house about 30 years ago and between the 9 room he put in 78 double sockets !!

guess what ? he still has to use multi socket extension leads

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i've pretty much decided on is that im installing a false floor. ... make one of the floor panels liftable and have a channel inside so cables can be accessed and altered etc.

I'd also put the cable in trunking to deter our small mammalian friends from having a good knore at them.

For data cables I used square plastic trunking with one whole side that comes away. This is so I could run run extra active USB cables and other data cables between the pier and the computer. My data trunking now houses two active USB leads, two electric focusser extention leads and a control/data cable for controlling the LX200.

As for planning sockets, I concur with brianb, you will never have too many. I have 14 sockets and frankly I could do with another two really.

Mine power - telescope mount, dew heater 12v power supply, USB hub on pier, telescope cooling fan, computer, screen, white light, red light, Homeplug internet connection, pond pump for water feature in garden, fan, heater, cd player, clock/radio, and portable hard disc drive for back ups.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mark

I ran mine from a plug (RCD protected)and socket from my adjacent garage, underground through PVC water pipe cemented together and up through the concrete pad to a fixed set of metal sockets. The rotating structure wiring plugs into this with a rubber kettle type lead as it is more flexible than syandard wiring. I take gare on how many turns I give the structure in any direction though!

Dave Smith

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  • 1 year later...
Mine power - telescope mount, dew heater 12v power supply, USB hub on pier, telescope cooling fan, computer, screen, white light, red light, Homeplug internet connection, pond pump for water feature in garden, fan, heater, cd player, clock/radio, and portable hard disc drive for back ups.

wot, no kettle?:)

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