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Widefield m51


Helen

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I'm still getting back into harness with imaging, so decided to do this just because I like it! Not very long, as I've got to go to bed :lol:

30x1 min subs and 30x30s ZS66 unguided SXVFH9

picture.php?albumid=107&pictureid=1023

Helen

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You've gone pretty deep there for such short integration time Helen.

Lots of faint fuzzies showing, plus the faint halo is coming through too.

If you don't mind me saying, the focus is just a hair off....what method do you use?

And flats.....no dust bunnies showing on this but flats would get rid of the vignetting and allow you to go deeper in the processing.

They really aren't that hard to do, despite the hype!

Stick a white tee shirt over the end of the scope and shoot some daylight ones. As you have a permanant setup it's well worth getting used to doing them.

What capture software are you using?

Cheers

Rob

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Thanks guys.

The focussing was with one of Billy's masks, but it was on the limit of my focus travel and I didn't check between targets. I think I need a longer extension tube (although then I'm afraid flex will be a problem?!)

I need to do the work on getting into the habits of flats etc, I've noticed that I'm limited on processing...

I'm capturing in Astroart, which is OK, if a bit temperamental at times! I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet and go for Maxim??

My set up has so much potential I just need to get myself up the learning curve to be able to realise it!!

Helen

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Thanks guys.

The focussing was with one of Billy's masks, but it was on the limit of my focus travel and I didn't check between targets. I think I need a longer extension tube (although then I'm afraid flex will be a problem?!)

Helen

How close was the line to the center of the cross Helen?

If you need more outward travel then I wouldn't be to worried about "flex" as If you add say 10mm and only need another 1mm or so then the focusser will be 9mm further in the tube... your only adding the "extra"...

Billy...

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Billy,

The mask worked brilliantly :lol:- focusing was so much easier - and I got the line completely central to start with. I think I just should have checked it later when it was colder. That's a good point about the extension! I now need to get the filter wheel going as well, so that might just add a bit into the imaging train which might be sufficient. I do worry about the amount of weight hanging off the back though :blob8:

Helen

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That's a deep image Helen, with the halo showing well. I use AstroArt myself and do find it cussed at times, largely because of the gibberish that masquerades as instructions. But I dont think Maxim would be the best way way for you to spend money on improvements. AstroArt and Photoshop will take you all the way.

Focus is SO important. I always set aside ten minutes in my head and that way I am not tempted to compromise. Like Rob, I think your focus is a tad off and that would really make a difference. It not only improves sharpness but, more importantly perhaps, reduces noise.

I trust you will take heed of the advice on taking flats. I say this because I never take myself and know I should! After you...

Olly.

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Hello Helen.

Checking focus every so often when the temperature changes is pretty essential.

Using one of Billys' masks on my 14 inch, I could actually watch the centre line change position as the temperature changed!

Being absolutely in focus makes a huge difference, as Olly says.

Not only do you get less noise, but the light you gather is placed on a smaller area, making it brighter, and thus easier to process, especially with faint stuff.

Cheers

Rob

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That's really helpful advice everyone! :lol:

The advantage with a focusing mask is that focusing is so much less of a chore that it doesn't have to take away precious imaging time - I've wasted hours in the past! I must remember to just pop it back on to check..

I'm learning that short cuts don't deliver the goods, so its worth the 'work' to get a stunning image. The frustration is that its so long between opportunities I forget!

So on my 'work' list are:

- find the balance points for my different setups so its easy in the dark

- make a focus mask for my C8 with the right internal dimensions for the Fastar secondary (the one I spent hours cutting i for a standard C8 not a fastar one - d'oh)

- learn how to use the filter wheel

- check the alignment very carefully (this can be done on a night not good enough for proper imaging)

- get the guiding working again (and minimise any flex)

- clean all my optics

- get into the habit of flats (I'm not sure I really darks??)

- work through some processing tutorials (particularly LRGB) so I'm ready once I get some more data!

Anything I've missed?

Thanks

Helen

(off to reprocess the M42 now :blob8:)

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Hello Helen.

With the SXV, you shouldn't need to worry about darks until you start doing subs of over 10 minutes, and even then, if you stack using median combine or SD mask you won't need them.

If you're doing flats though you will need bias frames, which you'll need to apply to the image and the flats, or the calibration will be wrong and the flats will either under, or over, compensate.

Took me ages to find that out!

Is your trutek wheel the motorised one?

If so, it will interface with maxim and you can set up sequences so the filters change automatically.

Don't know about astroart though.

Cheers

Rob

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Thanks Rob. OK so flats and bias frames it is. Yes, I've got the motorised filter wheel and Astroart should be able to control it (just need to experiment to find out how!).

I'm ready for more experiments now - the last couple of nights have been just about me reassuring myself I can get something!

Helen

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Helen, that's a really nice picture, esp the 2nd version.

I find Maxim very unwieldy myself, especially at night when im half asleep. I use Nebulosity2 for imaging and find it very satisfactory and easy to use, plus powerful in features. Lot cheaper than Maxim too :lol:

Tim

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