is this 3D printed part feasible? 800mm project

[Mognet]

I was wondering that last night after slicing it for my printer. At 0.10mm layer height it was saying 24 hours for the print, and 12 hours at 0.28mm

[Chriske]

How thick is the wall btw..?

[Mognet]

3 minutes ago, Chriske said:

How thick is the wall btw..?

The spec in the original post said 2.5mm

 

Would it be possible to repurpose an existing type of pipe? A quick look says that plumbing waste pipe goes up to 113mm. Not quite the 120mm diameter that was required though

[johninderby]

You can get 120mm plastic air duct pipe.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Manrose-Round-Pipe-White-120mm/dp/B00NJT40NW

[Chriske]

Using a bigger nozzle, say 2.5mm this could be printed in one go as 'SpiralVase'.
I actually do have a nozzle that size, and the printer that goes with it is almost finished.
Did a simulation and ended up with a printing time of 19 minutes using a layer height of a whopping 1.8mm.
Using a layer height of 'only' 1mm, printing-time raises to about 34m...😳😃
Cost 2.86€.

[PeterW]

Woah, that’s an old version of Cura!! 13hrs is nothing, I’ve run 3day prints before. 0.2mm and 60mm/s is fine, make the walls thicker that half the desired wall thickness so it’s solid and it doesn’t try making infill. Sometimes you just gotta wait.

 

peter

[Michele Scotti]

2 hours ago, johninderby said:

You can get 120mm plastic air duct pipe.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Manrose-Round-Pipe-White-120mm/dp/B00NJT40NW

 I bought a 6mm wall thickness pipe some time ago but when planning the process on the lathe it just looks like a nightmare. You'd need to make flanges to support the turning of the OD alone and then you are left with a  big ovehang on a thin  wall to turn it down to 2.5mm.  Not impossible but slim chances to do it rigth tbh.

The item is suppose to be sort of sleeve bearing for one hundred 3mm ceramic ball bearings I already got.

[Jonk]

According to this setup, you would need about 20m of PLA, and the print would take <8 hours using a 0.8mm nozzle, no infill (it doesn't need it) and print speed of 45mm/s.

The resolution won't be fantasitc, as it's a large nozzle. It also won't be smooth - if you want smooth, the best thing to do is print ABS, then chemical polish the surfce by placing in a sealed container with acetone vapour.

The main thing to take into consideration is shrinkage as it cools.

This may or may not be an issue, so you can either design it in when modelling (adding 0.2-0.3mm for example) if you know the outcome will be correct, or you can account for this in the slicing software (Cura in this case).

Another point is holes - if you know where these holes need to be, draw them in and if you need to reem or drill out when printed to suit, then this will be a lot easier than drilling new holes.

Drilling PLA is like any other plastic, it's very easy to get it wrong and melt rather than drill the material.

The best way to achieve this part in my opinion is turn down some ABS pipe. A good machinist will have no problem with it.

[Michele Scotti]

5 hours ago, Jonk said:

According to this setup, you would need about 20m of PLA, and the print would take <8 hours using a 0.8mm nozzle, no infill (it doesn't need it) and print speed of 45mm/s.

The resolution won't be fantasitc, as it's a large nozzle. It also won't be smooth - if you want smooth, the best thing to do is print ABS, then chemical polish the surfce by placing in a sealed container with acetone vapour.

The main thing to take into consideration is shrinkage as it cools.

This may or may not be an issue, so you can either design it in when modelling (adding 0.2-0.3mm for example) if you know the outcome will be correct, or you can account for this in the slicing software (Cura in this case).

Another point is holes - if you know where these holes need to be, draw them in and if you need to reem or drill out when printed to suit, then this will be a lot easier than drilling new holes.

Drilling PLA is like any other plastic, it's very easy to get it wrong and melt rather than drill the material.

The best way to achieve this part in my opinion is turn down some ABS pipe. A good machinist will have no problem with it.

Jonk thanks a lot for looking into that - I understand that it's pretty complicated and time consuming given the volume.

My concern about turning stems from the fact that when I had the Aluminium parts turned in a CNC shop they initially rejected the job due to a 3mm wall thickness - similar OD, similar lenght. TBH I need to have the Alu parts pretty accuracy - say +/-0.01, nowhere near this plastic bit. I might just giving it a try as I have the plastic pipe around.

My second choice would be making it out of carbon fiber. I used this method to make the central hub of the spider.