**FIXED** Shutter circuit fried...replacement or repair?

[tooth_dr]

1 hour ago, DaveL59 said:

can you check  that the electronics side if the circuit is getting 5v? Should be present across this small capacitor for example.

at least that'd prove the 5v regulator side is still working and not gone open circuit. I'm assuming that is the regulator next to the cap and that D3 is a protection diode against reverse polarity. Worth checking that diode is passing correctly too if you don't find 5v coming off the regulator.

Dave I will check this shortly and get back to you 👍🏻👍🏻

[tooth_dr]

38 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

I have some really good news for you (!) - if the original control system can't be repaired, my totally different system will simply connect to your CEBEK TL-2 board 👍

That’s great news Steve.  If I wanted to buy this off you how would I go about it ?

[steppenwolf]

26 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

That’s great news Steve.  If I wanted to buy this off you how would I go about it ?

Hi Adam,

I can't sell you mine in case my current system ever starts to play up, I need to know that I can replace it with one that I have already proved works 100% - sorry.

However, I can help you with diagrams, layouts, component lists etc.

This is what you would need to build:-

[tooth_dr]

28 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

Hi Adam,

I can't sell you mine in case my current system ever starts to play up, I need to know that I can replace it with one that I have already proved works 100% - sorry.

However, I can help you with diagrams, layouts, component lists etc.

This is what you would need to build:-

Thanks Steve, sorry I misunderstood, I thought this was available and there were more then one !

I will pursue fixing mine for a little more time, and after I’ve exhausted that I’ll get in touch and go from there. I appreciate you sharing your hard work and expertise. 

[symmetal]

Hi Adam,

If you could post 2 images looking straight down on both sides of the board, I'll work out the circuit diagram for you, which should help on determining what's gone wrong. 🙂

Alan

[tooth_dr]

1 hour ago, symmetal said:

Hi Adam,

If you could post 2 images looking straight down on both sides of the board, I'll work out the circuit diagram for you, which should help on determining what's gone wrong. 🙂

Alan

Hi Alan

Are these ok?  Thank you for helping me.

 

Adam

 

[tooth_dr]

@DaveL59 I checked the capacitor labelled putting the multimeter across the legs, there is no voltage 0.00 

[DaveL59]

3 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

@DaveL59 I checked the capacitor labelled putting the multimeter across the legs, there is no voltage 0.00 

Can you confirm you have 12V at the band-marked end of the diode D3?

Sounds like the voltage regulator may be dud if there's 12v at the diode, I assume it'll be something like a 7805 linear regulator, should be marked on the front.

[tooth_dr]

8 minutes ago, DaveL59 said:

Can you confirm you have 12V at the band-marked end of the diode D3?

Sounds like the voltage regulator may be dud if there's 12v at the diode, I assume it'll be something like a 7805 linear regulator, should be marked on the front.

There is 12v getting to the banded end of the diode.

[tooth_dr]

I can see the voltage regulator 7805.  I have used something similar when I made a 12v -> 8v adapter for my canon.  

[tooth_dr]

Ok there is 12v going through the input and output pin of the voltage reducer.  How much harm will this have done?

[DaveL59]

ok so the 12v feed to the end of the diode is good so at least the supply circuit is still sound up to that point. I'd expect to see the below on the board

so if you aren't getting 5v then it sounds like the regulator has failed. But first check that you are getting 12v at the other pin 🙂 

[DaveL59]

3 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Ok there is 12v going through the input and output pin of the voltage reducer.  How much harm will this have done?

ouch, that's not so good, sounds like the regulator may have failed short-circuit, not sure how the PIC would've handled that 😞 

[Davey-T]

5 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

so I'm looking at £2600 basically to buy new.

You could build a new board for a very small fraction of that and practice your soldering at the same time 😉

Dave

[Davey-T]

8 minutes ago, DaveL59 said:

not sure how the PIC would've handled that

Don't know much about PICs is it a standard thing or does it have to be programmed ?

Dave

[DaveL59]

4 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Don't know much about PICs is it a standard thing or does it have to be programmed ?

Dave

I expect it'll need programming, unless a replacement can be sourced but sounds like there's no support now for this board. Not sure if the PIC chip would've survived as no clue which it is or the specs for it. Could be worth replacing the 7805 and try see if we're in luck...

[tooth_dr]

1 minute ago, DaveL59 said:

I expect it'll need programming, unless a replacement can be sourced but sounds like there's no support now for this board. Not sure if the PIC chip would've survived as no clue which it is or the specs for it. Could be worth replacing the 7805 and try see if we're in luck...

Asking my friend if he has one to try out, I hope this works 👍🏼

[symmetal]

1 hour ago, tooth_dr said:

Hi Alan

Are these ok?  Thank you for helping me.

Adam

 

Yes Adam, they look fine to work with. Can you read the markings on Q1 and Q2 just to check whether they're NPN or PNP, though looking at the finished circuit it should hopefully be obvious. 🙂

Alan

[symmetal]

Adam,

On the latest board picture you posted you've replaced the 5V relays with 12V ones. They are unlikely to operate from 5V. As you recently reported the 5V regulator appears short in to out I doubt the PIC survived as mentioned. 

Alan

[DaveL59]

Doh good spot Alan, I'd not noticed that!

[tooth_dr]

2 hours ago, symmetal said:

Adam,

On the latest board picture you posted you've replaced the 5V relays with 12V ones. They are unlikely to operate from 5V. As you recently reported the 5V regulator appears short in to out I doubt the PIC survived as mentioned. 

Alan

Ah that’s annoying. I just bought the ones linked on page 1 and never checked. 

[tooth_dr]

2 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

Doh good spot Alan, I'd not noticed that!

I never checked either! 

[DaveL59]

I believe this is the one you'd need
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0369466/

but please do verify before buying 🙂 

[symmetal]

Here's the circuit layout Adam. Excuse the scribble. I can do a prettier one in KiCad but that'll take a while. 🙂

Note with the relay wiring, to run the motor in one direction you active only one relay, and to reverse direction you activate only the other relay, from PIC output pins 6 and 7 via the driver transistors. PIC pins 1, 2, 7, 18 are probably inputs connected to the CL and CP signals on connectors J1 and J2 via pull up resistors and noise filtering capacitors. Pin 8 drives the 'ER LEC' pin  (I think that's how it's labelled) on J1

With the board unpowered connecting +12V directly to the motor would have shorted out the battery via the pcb track and relay contacts, hence the PCB track burning out and acting as a fuse. 😟  The resistance of the track was high enough not to drop the battery volts,  so it still drove the motor. As the motor circuitry is isolated from the rest of the board, I can't see how that would have damaged the 7805 regulator, so that must have failed before for some reason, which most likely has killed the PIC, as it's TTL based, and can't cope with voltages above 5.5V 😬

D3 protects the board from inadvertant battery reversal.

The PIC is effectively behaving as a set of logic gates with the outputs on pins 6, 7 and 8 dependant on the voltage states appearing on pins 1, 2, 17 and 18. An arduino nano could easily be programmed to replicate this if the function of the CL and CP signals were known.

 

Alan

Edited October 4, 2020 by symmetal

[steppenwolf]

Well done, Alan - great job!