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DIY Crosshairs


Stub Mandrel

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I wanted a dirt-cheap crosshair eyepiece for a finder scope.

I bought a dirt cheap opticstar 25mm plossl, on the basis it won't matter if I wreck it and it's only for a finder so great quality not needed. Luckily the field stop is made as a plastic ring with a sharp edge. I took two strands of very fine wire from a very thin multistrand cable. I flattened the wire by rolling it between two flat surfaces after cutting to length. I used a cocktail stick to apply polystyrene cement to the stop ring and fine tweezers to place the wires and nudge into position.

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I've always used silk strands, direct from the cocoon if possible. Thinner than human, or other, hair and wire.

The trick in keeping flexible thin strands straight is to have the strands longer than the frame requires and stretch them over a large aperture in some stiff card holding in place with adhesive tape. At this point you can adjust the strands to be at 90 deg to each other easily. This is then placed over your frame, carefully centered, and blobs of glue applied at the touching points. When dry use a craft knife to cut the strands where required.

Nigel

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8 minutes ago, Astrobits said:

I've always used silk strands, direct from the cocoon if possible. Thinner than human, or other, hair and wire.

The trick in keeping flexible thin strands straight is to have the strands longer than the frame requires and stretch them over a large aperture in some stiff card holding in place with adhesive tape. At this point you can adjust the strands to be at 90 deg to each other easily. This is then placed over your frame, carefully centered, and blobs of glue applied at the touching points. When dry use a craft knife to cut the strands where required.

Nigel

Yes, this is the procedure I used to fix the hairs. I found the thicker hairs to be more easily seen against the sky background.

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25 minutes ago, Astrobits said:

I've always used silk strands, direct from the cocoon if possible. Thinner than human, or other, hair and wire.

The trick in keeping flexible thin strands straight is to have the strands longer than the frame requires and stretch them over a large aperture in some stiff card holding in place with adhesive tape. At this point you can adjust the strands to be at 90 deg to each other easily. This is then placed over your frame, carefully centered, and blobs of glue applied at the touching points. When dry use a craft knife to cut the strands where required.

Nigel

For the EP I used, the field stop is about 20mm down a tube. To put tesnsion on I would have to drill holes. I'm now tempted to get another cheap EP, turn up a little LED torch and make an illuminated one. My daughter has fine fair hair in suitable lengths. Sadly mine has been much to short since 1987...

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Traditionally, cross-hairs were made of spider silk, particularly from Orb-Web spiders. Having walked into Orb-Web spiderwebs I can attest as to how remarkably strong their silk is.

I have tried fine wire but even the finest I could lay my hands on was, to my mind, too thick as the target could get lost behind them. The solution to that was to defocus the finderscope so the stars were discs which could easily be centered on the cross-hairs. Unfortunately that rather limited the faintness of stars that could be used.  However, having done your first one it will be easier to remove it and do another one if you want to try a different 'hair'.

What got me more frustrated was the three screw adjustment system used on many finderscopes. This led me to designing and making my own finderscope mounting that has push and lock in horizontal and vertical planes separately.

Nigel

 

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In the (very) old days observatories kept spiders exclusively to harvest their silk to be used as crosshairs. A long time ago there was article about it in a astronomical magazine.
I'll look it up...

Baby's hair is very thin so for that purpose I 'harvested' hair of my son when he was (very)little... :laugh2:

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