Best quality clamps and dovetail bars.

[25585]

For my Tak frac, I am going to get a Losmandy D type clamp and dovetail, as the rings will be 2 Tak cradle clamps, so need a broad base. 

Are there any particular makes which use strong hard clamps, bars and clamp knobs and springs which will not churn up or wear out threading? 

[Stu]

Two cradle clamps? That's belt and braces!

ADM kit is very solid. Also the Baader clamps are nice, perhaps the longer version would support the DL well with your setup?

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/baader-pan-3-eq-dual-dovetail-clamp-370mm.html

[25585]

If the Tak clamp had 2 lock nuts, I would not have bought a 2nd. Its to protect from my forgetfulness ?

The Baader looks good ?

[Moonshane]

In some respects the harder the contact surface is, the more risk of it coming loose or stripping threads. A softer dovetail will naturally be damaged a little bit through normal use but this is expected. A harder face like steel would be marked up less but could have other problems.

That said, as long as you tighten the thing properly and it's in it's correct position, the chance of disaster is very small indeed. 

[Stu]

6 minutes ago, Moonshane said:

In some respects the harder the contact surface is, the more risk of it coming loose or stripping threads. A softer dovetail will naturally be damaged a little bit through normal use but this is expected. A harder face like steel would be marked up less but could have other problems.

That said, as long as you tighten the thing properly and it's in it's correct position, the chance of disaster is very small indeed. 

True enough, but that’s the nice thing about the brass clamps, they grip very well without marking. If the dovetail stays undamaged then it also slides more easily if you need to adjust for balance. Need to make sure you have a safety stop at the end obviously!! I nearly ‘lost’ a C925 That way!!

[Moonshane]

Good point Stu on both.

Yes, I always put in a cap head bolt in the top end of the dovetail to act as a stop. in fact I normally position the dovetail so the bolt touches the clamp on my mount. I'd sooner cause minor scuffs or even replace my EQ5 head than a scope.

[Moonshane]

[Stu]

7 minutes ago, Moonshane said:

Good point Stu on both.

Yes, I always put in a cap head bolt in the top end of the dovetail to act as a stop. in fact I normally position the dovetail so the bolt touches the clamp on my mount. I'd sooner cause minor scuffs or even replace my EQ5 head than a scope.

Yes, that makes alot of sense too. It stops momentum building up as a scope drops and potentially breaking the end stop.

[alan potts]

I have a fair amount of ADM kit and I find that very good, solid stuff, there is cheaper but for the little amount I always go with ADM

[cfpendock]

I use a Robin Casady clamp for both my Tak 106 and my deforked CPC1100.  Expensive, but very well made.  Gets a lot of use as I have to set up and tear down for each session., but no problem with either the screw threads or the springs.

Chris

[Louis D]

57 minutes ago, cfpendock said:

I use a Robin Casady clamp for both my Tak 106 and my deforked CPC1100.  Expensive, but very well made.  Gets a lot of use as I have to set up and tear down for each session., but no problem with either the screw threads or the springs.

Chris

Be aware that Casady has ended production.

[25585]

What are Primaluce and Geoptik likely, or are, for quality compared to others?

Baader's longest bars seem only to be drilled for SCT rings.

Ideally, I would have the far end clamp just behind the end of my Tak's (DL) tube before the dew shield flare, and the other as far back from that as a bar would allow. 21 inches longest for ADM, 45 cms Geoptik, 49.5 cms Primaluce......

 

[cfpendock]

5 minutes ago, Louis D said:

Be aware that Casady has ended production

Thanks Louis.  I didn't know that.  Pity.....

Chris