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Fixing and using a tilt adjuster with a DSLR...


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Hi all,

I did ask this a while ago with no responses so thought I would try again!

I image with a DSLR, using a coma corrector with the newt and a flattener with the 72 ED-R.

I would like to attach a tilt adjuster to fine tune my images and was pleased today when I found out from FLO that I could attach one to a low profile T ring and site it between the flattener and the camera. The problem is that on the adjusters I have seen, the adjustment screws are on the side that would be next to the camera, meaning that I would have to keep removing the camera to make adjustment then putting it back on to check the results. Does anyone have experience of using a tilt adjuster with a DSLR in this way and is it feasible to do it this way?

 

Another option I thought of is screw the barrell of the flattener (female filter thread) onto the tilt adjuster and find a way of attaching the other side of the adjuster to the focuser. Again, does anyone have experience of doing it this way and is it feasible and possible to use it this way? (e.g. between the flattener and focuser instead of between the flattener and camera).

Thanks for reading this and I hope some of you will be able to share your experience and wisdom with me!

 

 

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Are you using a skywatcher newt?  If so does the focusser unscrew? If so you might be able to use a click lock instead of a tilt adjuster, need to check if this would work. I just bought one for my skywatcher refractors and it has sorted out the tilt problem. Carole

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1 hour ago, Davey-T said:

As above what are you trying to fix Tim ?

Not Newton rings I guess :grin:

Have you got an image ?

Dave

 

1 hour ago, Merlin66 said:

The ZWO T2 tilted can be adjusted from either side...

I question why you think a tilted is required.

 

Well you did ask!

 

Here is an image. The problem I have is with the 72 ED_R. The same camera on the Newt gives good stars. The camera is a 100D. The flattener is a Hotech one. The distortion is worse with the AA flattener/reducer. The image is straight from DSS with just a little levels.

I can get a better result after using the transform tools in photoshop but as well as coma, I think there is some tilt in there as well, hence my asking about a tilt adjuster.

591adf2803040_Autosave001jpg.thumb.jpg.9c454d1739ad83982e3591140d323d8e.jpg

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Don't think it's tilt, if you zoom in all the bright bits are pointing towards the centre, could be reducer spacing, stars elongated radiating out from the centre indicate reducer too close.

Dave

Top left

Top-left.png.071c3255140ad3a5762aa58999b9e810.png 

 

Bottom right

Bottom-right.thumb.png.fd4a369e1263092ce4cd259ab3d8083a.png

 

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15 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Don't think it's tilt, if you zoom in all the bright bits are pointing towards the centre, could be reducer spacing, stars elongated radiating out from the centre indicate reducer too close.

Dave

Top left

Top-left.png.071c3255140ad3a5762aa58999b9e810.png 

 

Bottom right

Bottom-right.thumb.png.fd4a369e1263092ce4cd259ab3d8083a.png

 

Thanks Dave, I know what you mean.... This image did have an extra 1mm of spacing... I have tried differing amounts but havn't found a sweet spot. I might be wrong. but I thought the stars on the left of the image were less deformed than those on the right. The spacing for the flattener is supposed to be 55mm, and this image was that. I have gone up to 56mm I think but it seemed to me the image was worse then. Thanks for lookin... Tim. 

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I agree with Dave, I think it's spacing that is the issue, there is elongated in all four corners all pointing outwards.  Dave  also backs up what i said about using a varilock, except I called it a click lock.  

I had bad tilt in one corner of all my images, 3 corners were fine, and I always put it down to the fact that the camera was clamped in by two screws only.  Using the click lock it clamps the camera on by squeezing it - not only has it cured the elongated stars in one corner, but it is also safer (I used to worry my camera would fall out during slewing if the screws were not quite tight enough) and it also stops the EFW getting rotated when I put my cover on and off at camp.  Such a shame I can't use it on my WO scope too but there are no threads on that on which to screw it.

Carole 

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1 hour ago, carastro said:

I agree with Dave, I think it's spacing that is the issue, there is elongated in all four corners all pointing outwards.  Dave  also backs up what i said about using a varilock, except I called it a click lock.  

 

Carole 

Thanks Carole, I think perhaps the flatteners are the issue then. The Hotech one will not take any more spacing than I've already tried because the bayonet attaching to the T ring is too short to take more spacers. An extra thick T Ring might help if they are available! 

Regarding the vari/clicklok, I have been screwing the flatteners onto the focuser and the Hotech also has a very nice attachment that centres the unit in the focuser. 

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2 hours ago, carastro said:

I agree with Dave, I think it's spacing that is the issue, there is elongated in all four corners all pointing outwards.  Dave  also backs up what i said about using a varilock, except I called it a click lock.  

I Such a shame I can't use it on my WO scope too but there are no threads on that on which to screw it.

Carole 

I just bought one of these for the WO110FLT as I couldn't get the focal reducer to fit consistently without sagging, works a treat, one of them may fit your WO scope.

https://williamoptics.com/products/accessories/rotolock-adapters

PS: Clicklock rotates to hold eyepieces etc, Varilock is infinitely adjustable spacer, when + / - 1mm won't fix it. 

Dave

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Quote

I just bought one of these for the WO110FLT as I couldn't get the focal reducer to fit consistently without sagging, works a treat, one of them may fit your WO scope.

https://williamoptics.com/products/accessories/rotolock-adapters

PS: Clicklock rotates to hold eyepieces etc,

Thanks for the link Dave, have made a note of it, none of this stuff is cheap is it?

CArole 

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