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Entry level DSLR for beginner


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I am looking into purchasing a DSLR in the range of $400-600. I have heard the Canons are very nice for astrophotography, and the Rebel T5 is now $400 new with 18-55mm lens kit. Is this a good one to start with, or do you have better recommendations? TIYA!

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I use a modded Cannon 600D, with an unmodded 700D - these both have similar sensors.

From, my uninformed/inexperienced, view these produce good images.

It would help people of you can say what equipment you intended to use the camera with, and what your preferred targets are.

There are so many variables - including, as you looking for a DSLT for daytime use, pr purely Astrophotography. If the latter, there are dedicated cameras for this which will produce better results than a DSLR.

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3 minutes ago, iapa said:

I use a modded Cannon 600D, with an unmodded 700D - these both have similar sensors.

From, my uninformed/inexperienced, view these produce good images.

It would help people of you can say what equipment you intended to use the camera with, and what your preferred targets are.

There are so many variables - including, as you looking for a DSLT for daytime use, pr purely Astrophotography. If the latter, there are dedicated cameras for this which will produce better results than a DSLR.

I suppose that would be helpful! The scope I will be using it with is a Celestron AVX 8" Newtonian F/5. I mostly want to focus on DSOs, but planets occasionally. I wouldn't mind having DLSR for daytime use soemtimes but I don't think I would use it that much anyway. If there is an option that is going to produce better results for the same cost, that is only for astrophotography, I am certainly open to that.

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Thnaks

Per previous, I have the modded 600D and700D.

I have used these with a SW 200-PDS, 200mm aperture, f5, 1000m focal length, on an AVX.

The 200P-DS is designated 'astrograph', i.e an OTA designed for imaging rather that observing so has a shorter tube to bring the focus a little bit further out so it can reach camera sensors.

I had used a 130mm f5 reflector previously, which require a x2 barlow to bring the focal plane out to the camera. It may be that you may need to do the same.

The AVX was getting towards the 70 % of payload once I;d added guide camera and OTA, but seemed to be OK even unguided - 60s exposures were possible.

I'm sorry but I can't say if any 'Rebel Tx' is equivalent to those i have as 'real' seems to be a US designation.

 

Hoever, Canon DSLRs are the preferred manufacturer if using for daytime and astro photography

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48 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

The most important part of the story (by far) is the mount. What mount are you using and are you aiming to autoguide?

Olly

Celestron AVX equatorial mount. http://www.celestron.com/browse-shop/astronomy/mounts-and-tripods/advanced-vx-mount
The max payload is about 30lbs and the OTA itself is 14lbs so weight could be a factor to consider. I am not sure about autoguiding (still learning all these terms) but it's not something I'm going to start out with. 

 

50 minutes ago, iapa said:

I'm sorry but I can't say if any 'Rebel Tx' is equivalent to those i have as 'real' seems to be a US designation.

I forgot they were different names in Europe. 600D is the T3i here and 700D is the T5i. 

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I am not sure about autoguiding (still learning all these terms) but it's not something I'm going to start out with. 

You WILL want to auto-guide once you start taking longer exposures of deep sky objects and you will discover very quickly that longer exposures are very important! Weight will be a serious consideration with your existing mount/Newtonian combination so it would be well worth looking into a finder-guider for auto-guiding. Welcome to the slippery slope that is deep sky astrophotography! :icon_biggrin::icon_biggrin:

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With Celestron (and several others) the imaging payload is likely to be about half the visual payload. They are very 'optimistic.' You really do need to beware of this kind of nonsense from their website:

 permanently programmable Periodic Error Correction eliminates recurring track errors from the worm gear.

Eliminates, does it? Hmmmm....

If you put a 600D in a scope with a focal length of 1000mm you will be trying to image at just less than 0.9 arcseconds per pixel. That is, let's be clear, a very big ask. It would require not just autoguiding but very good autoguiding, and it would require excellent seeing. OK, it isn't the end of the world if you don't manage to track or guide at that level of precision (and, unguided, you won't) because, if the tracking errors are random, you have a good chance of getting round stars in short sub exposures. But don't make the mistake of thinking that round stars mean good tracking. They can just mean equal and random errors on both axes.

Where am I going with this? Unguided you would be very lucky indeed to track at anything like 3 arcseconds per pixel over a couple of minutes. It could be far worse. In this case you would obtain the same true resolution of detail, and a far wider field of view, by using a much shorter FL optic.

Olly

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Ollie and Steve have both added to my comment that the AVX is going to be near it's limits

Ollie's comments highlight the importance of ....

ah, sod it - no point in commenting further

these guys know exactly what they are talking about

listen and learn 

lol

 

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So it sounds like an autoguider is almost a necessity, but also another big expense. Any recommendations on the best bang for the buck on autoguiders? Being that I am a complete beginner in astrophotography, is it better to start with an autoguider or learn without one first (or does it not matter, I will just get crappier photos without one)?

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I image with a Canon T5i, on a Skywatcher 200P, initially mounted on an EQ5 mount, unguided.  

I did move to guiding (using a cheap web cam and a finder scope to start with).  

There were limitations but some of the DSO images in my album here were taken with this minimal kit.  Quite a few weren't that good, either, and have since added a coma corrector, light pollution filter, bigger guide scope, more sensitive guide camera, better motors and most recently a bigger mount, but for what's possible with a DSLR on long focus scope take a look at Scott Rosen's website here

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The science Ollie and Steve refer to is based upon fact and experience whereas an emotional comment regarding a particular make of camera isn't. I would not have used a DSLR solely for DSO imaging but I did use it a lot for terrestrial and the right choice is quite capable for planetary imaging. You could do worse than buy Steve's book 'Making every photon count' I guess. In that way your hard earned cash can be put to productive use.

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I would guide from the outset. That's what I did myself. The numbers simply don't add up if you don't. You are using a pretty big scope in order to photograph detail. If you don't autoguide you will blur out that detail. There is no way out of this.

All my autoguiding kit is ancient so I don't know what now represents the best bang for buck but I would avoid the all-in-one packages because you buy into one package and if some part of it doesn't work you are stuck. The key component, the software, is free thanks to PHD2. A bit of good news at last!

Olly

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Less stress, more fun, unguided, decent image within a month -> small refractor.
All you need is precise polar alignment.
Single sub with avx, at65edq, 60d mod unguided -> 180sec & 300sec
Even with 180sec, still I want to guide.

With your newt, the cheapest option is QHY5L-II if you don't like the pancake ASI120MM.
Plus unbranded 60mm guide scope.


 

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11 hours ago, ManixZero said:

Forget everything you think that you know and have a look at a Pentax K3ii!

It has a built in astro tracing function that moves the sensor  to follow the celestial bodies that you are pointing at! 

(Apparently!)

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/products/k-3-2/feature/02.html

Wont work with interval shooting, so, OK you can get a 120s image, but looks like you will need to go and push the button again:(

However, a good start for this doing wide field.

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