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Canon 450D astro mod


Coastliner

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37 minutes ago, John78 said:

Yes the clip filter is perfect for the canon cameras, the only difference between the CCD and normal CLS is that the CCD one has got IR cut to, so as long as you are doing the normal astro mod and leaving the second filter in the camera, then you only need the cheaper non IR cut version, as you already have IR cut in the filter you leave in the camera.....

so no point I spending the extra, the clip filter comes in both IR and non IR versions, the IR version has CCD in the name, so go for this one, as it is non IR and £20 cheaper

http://www.365astronomy.com/Astronomik-CLS-Visual-Clip-Filter-for-Canon-EOS-Cameras.html?gclid=CLfqseWlns8CFUw8GwodtjkBoQ

They call it a visual version, but it is for imaging too, if you read down the description you will see, for some reason filters that do not have IR cut they seem to label as visual.....!

:)

Edited by SkyBound
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I'm getting overloaded now. Back to basics - I'm going to to take out the filter nearest the sensor and replace it with nothing. I have no intention of using the modded camera for anything but astro. Will this enable me to use the cam for getting more nebula detail? Is it a worthwhile mod?

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23 minutes ago, Coastliner said:

I'm getting overloaded now. Back to basics - I'm going to to take out the filter nearest the sensor and replace it with nothing. I have no intention of using the modded camera for anything but astro. Will this enable me to use the cam for getting more nebula detail? Is it a worthwhile mod?

Ok I understand it can get confusing. So ill try to condense this into the following advice.

1) Take out the filter nearest to the sensor and leave the other filter in place (the one with the wires attached). This will give you a massive boost to nebula. Do not replace it with a baader filter for now you probably dont need it.

2) If you experience any issues with star bloat / strong colored halos around stars, then buy the Astronomic CLS CCD clip filter. It would need to be the CCD version to stop the star bloat as only the CCD version has the IR cut. That will get rid of the bloat.

32 minutes ago, SkyBound said:

Yes the clip filter is perfect for the canon cameras, the only difference between the CCD and normal CLS is that the CCD one has got IR cut to, so as long as you are doing the normal astro mod and leaving the second filter in the camera, then you only need the cheaper non IR cut version, as you already have IR cut in the filter you leave in the camera.....

so no point I spending the extra, the clip filter comes in both IR and non IR versions, the IR version has CCD in the name, so go for this one, as it is non IR and £20 cheaper

http://www.365astronomy.com/Astronomik-CLS-Visual-Clip-Filter-for-Canon-EOS-Cameras.html?gclid=CLfqseWlns8CFUw8GwodtjkBoQ

They call it a visual version, but it is for imaging too, if you read down the description you will see, for some reason filters that do not have IR cut they seem to label as visual.....!

:)

The only difference between the CLS CLIP and CLS CCD CLIP filters is the IR Blocking Filter. However, it will depend on his optics as to if he needs the additional IR blocking filter or not which is included in the CLS CCD. If he does not get star bloat with his setup then adding the LP filter becomes a completely separate concern. However, if he did get star bloat it has to be the CCD. Either way as these are external filters he can just try it and if he needs one without having to open up the camera again. Finally I seem to remember that the CLIP versions of the CLS filter have an additional anti-reflective coating in comparison to the 2" and 1.25" versions. But I may be wrong about that.

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3 hours ago, SkyBound said:

So won't the filter that is left in the camera which has the IR cut, stop the star bloat, that was my logic...and then that means the CCD version of the clip is not needed :)

 

It can stop the star bloat but like i say its a little less aggressive than the Baader so it lets a little more IR through. Canon filter = 750nm cut off vs Baader filter = 690nm cut off. ED Doublets tend to not be optimized for chromatic aberration beyond 700nm so although its better than nothing its still letting 50nm more IR get past to the sensor than would be optimal. It would mean that the optical system would be less tolerant to adding a reducer / flattner for example. It would probably also depend on just how fussy you are about minor star defects too.

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3 hours ago, Coastliner said:

I have a choice of optics btw,  the sw150pds and a swED80.

It will be fine for SW150PDS to not bother with the replacement filter. I use a 130PDS with a coma corrector and no replacement filter and its totally fine. I dont have a ED80 but my gut feeling is it would be fine too so long as you dont try to use a focal reducer with it. But ultimately just try it an see what happens. If you do get star bloat it wont be horrendous like it would be with no filter at all.

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  • 4 years later...

So may things it could be after a complete disassembly.

Could be one of the ribbons is not fully seated.

Did you make a Sharpie mark across each ribbon so you knew how far to reinsert ?

Did you take anti-static precautions ?

Once I forgot to reinsert this one :

Ribbon.jpg.1b3c0daa607a99f24aa2187dd36f732f.jpg

 

 

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