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John78

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About John78

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    Star Forming
  1. John78

    A new focuser - BDF

    I'm just having Friday musings maybe a focuser for an imaging scope could be quite different in design to today's conventional designs, the required travel distance is in reality is tiny for any given setup. If you used M4 (maybe even fine) configured like your BDF but 3 or 4 threaded rods and no slides you could have pretty precise adjustment on the image plane distance but also pitch/angle, either 1 motor and 3/4 pulleys or 3/4 motors for motorised planar adjustment, the drawer tube needn't be a tube but simply an adapter plate to the filterwheel, you might want a tube for the purpose of blocking stray light. I'll think some more about this.
  2. John78

    A new focuser - BDF

    This is interesting - I have an old 130P which is currently without focuser at all, seeing your work could well have given me the inspiration I need to get it up and running again with a 3D printed focuser!
  3. John78

    Best £10 I ever spent

    It's a breath of fresh air compared to traditional techniques!
  4. John78

    Help with ASI071MC Pro Cooled

    You need some spacers to get further away! Or a field flattener.
  5. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    I sent you a PM.
  6. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    No, I do have a one I can part with though.
  7. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    It is, but not without. Oh I've got a 3D printed baht for whomever buys the scope too...
  8. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    FF/FR - it's flat on a QHY174 sized sensor but the corners wernt too good on a APS-C sized sensor, not unexpected performance I'd say.
  9. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    Knebworth, Hertforshire. I've got an Altair 0.6x focal reducer for the scope too, makes it 360mm F4.5 which could be sold with the scope for £50.
  10. John78

    Various items for sale - completed

    The telescope itself is fine, used it a couple of days ago for this... (with the mount and the QHY174M)... 150x1 minute Hydrogen Alpha subs... The eyepiece has some funk on it - might clean up, and the diagonals full of dust and the male part of it doesn't do up tight - just spins and spins - nothing I've done to either in my stewardship, just I only do imaging so they are little/no use to me... edit : in terms of age it was ~1year old when I bought it in Nov 2016 and I've used it most clear nights since then, so once or twice - lol - I've used it about 30 times I suppose since then.
  11. To offset the costs of some upgrades for the new season I'm offering the following items up for sale :- 9x50 Guide scope - standard SW 9x50, 3D printed adapter, ASI120MM (USB 2) and the original ASI USB lead - £sold Baader 1.25" 7nm Halpha filter (I acquired a full baader NB set so this one's surplus), as new condition - went out of the packet into a sealed FW and back into the packet now - £70 delivered Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro OTA, its not quite the OTA, theres a cases and diagonal + eyepiece in the case, which I've never taken out of the case - I got the scope 2nd hand and they look a bit ropey to me - so they'll be in the box as spares or repairs - the scope itself is in fine condition - £sold Sky-Watcher EQ5, with AstroEQ, this is perfectly serviceable - doesn't look too pretty but tracks and guides fine, the DEC clutch handle is cracked and glued, I take both clutch handles off anyway and use an M12 spanner, stops the potential of the motor hitting the handle, its got 2x5kg counterweights, polar scope and all the normal stuff but you need a laptop EQmod or Kstars/indi to drive it - £withdrawn QHY174M - all boxes and leads no marks of any note, odd one or two marks where screwed onto the FW, optic window is mint - £withdrawn Bank transfer or paypal (friends/gift or you pay the fees), open to sensible offers, I think my pricing is more than reasonable though! Edit - updated, mods please move to completed.
  12. John78

    Which guide camera replacement

    The ZWO ASI 120MM (USB2) is a venerable camera - but - it does not work at all well with Linux / KStars / Ekos etc... So if that is in your imaging setup or might be in the future, its not the camera to choose. The USB3 version is fine. The lodestar is the defacto camera of choice for OAG although its a bit pricey - you might be able to re-purpose and old atik ccd for a lot less money.
  13. As posted in the other thread - onshape is really by far the best "free" cross platform engineering tool available, its free for hobbyist but your CAD is saved in the public domain, viewable to all. It's trivial to make sure nobody every finds it mind you. The support is absolutely first class too as are the video tutorials.
  14. John78

    DIY tube rings

    Since there seems to be some interest in tube rings - here is my version 2.0 which I've been using for a while - updated to make it user friendly and more parametric, it also closes radially round your scope - the original version is a pig to clamp up. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/9ef1f49bce695e8da6ea69b0/w/d65720e097e3158a7d97a511/e/9f8f0af085c45ad627ab450e Hopefully the parameters should be self explanatory and where possible each sketch only contains 1 dimension to be adjusted by the astronomer! Scope OD - change this dimesion to alter the ID of the ring Ring Thickness - change this to make a thicker or thinner ring - I'd suggest 10mm smallest diameter < 7mm will break the model Clamping screw diameter - the size of the axial clamping screw - currently M5 clearance Closure and foot shouldn't need any adjustment Clamp extrude sketches - final, no user settable parameters Foot extrude sketch - final, no user settable parameters Thickness of tube rings - this controls the overall thickness - I'd suggest 12mm smallest thickness Thickness of pivot - this needs to be (0.5 * thickness) - 0.5mm Thickness of foot ring - will auto calculate to the same as the other thickness Thickness of foot pivot- this needs to be (0.5 * thickness) - 0.5mm Fixing screw hole - this is currently M6, what you want to screw it down to the dovetail with I print with 4 bottom layers, 4 top layers, 4 perimeters and 50% infill and its strong enough and the dovetail clamp is easily threaded with a tap to screw it down. Let me know how you get on if you print it out!!
  15. John78

    DIY tube rings

    Sign up then in, then copy the workspace using the button at the top, the right click on the part and say export... Then choose these options and click export, STL file of the part will download.
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