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John78

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  1. Never used 8729, but this guy has a build log of exactly what you are using... ONSTEP EQ5 GOTO (groups.io) Your gear ratios will be different, the AstroEQ site has all the appropriate gear ratios for the SW mounts.
  2. The trinamic drivers in either drive mode stealthchop (silent) or spreadcycle deliver more torque than a conventional driver in half step mode, and spreadcycle 256usteps delivers only slightly less torque than full stepping, they're amazing pieces of tech, the issue used to be generating the clocks to accelerate and run them at high rpm in 256usteps, but with modern processors that's not an issue, no way could an arduino do it. Thanks to OP and repliers for highlighting onstep - have ordered some MaxSTM boards from JLCPCB today to change from astroeq (which has a really frustrating windows bug) to an OnStep controller. The ascom info required seems to all on this site. edit: let me rephrase that, windows has a really frustrating bug, that requires the astroeq to be powered before you plug in the usb - it works fine in linux as it handles the ports properly. http://www.stellarjourney.com/index.php?r=site/software_telescope
  3. Yeah one of the reasons I'm attempting to move from Windows to a Rpi is EKOS keeps my QSI583 connected properly 100% of the time, sometimes windows/ascom totally loses the plot - I cannot control the camera, but the filter wheel still work fine through the same USB port, which forces me to reboot and then I lose the pointing model, guiding cals, tracking etc.... So understand mitigating software frustrations. One thing I've never tried is the autofocus using bahtinov option, the HFR options I use are a bit slow I need to do the average of 3 subs at 5 to 7 focus points for it to reliably find best focus - it looks like I could test that tonight as its too moony for real imaging. I presume it models the diffraction lines and moves them to dead centre.
  4. I'll bite, why do you need a remote bhat, if you already have a remote/motorised focuser? The autofocus routines via various free software is amazingly good these days - I was considering an automatic flat/scope cover, but its not entirely clear how to implement it on the front of a refractor without it being a wind sock or having 270 degrees of motion.
  5. Fractory do some decent pricing on laser cutting.
  6. Indeed - what I need is a M48 faceplate for the camera - which QSI don't appear to make, the SX one looks like it would be able to fit if you make a small adapter plate - or I could machine a whole new one - although cutting the thread might be a challenge and then I'd need to find someone to anodise it.
  7. Is anyone using a QSI 683wsg camera with a Skywatcher coma corrector - I have one on the way (camera) and I forsee back-focus issues, The Skywatcher CC has M48 threads, if I use the M48->T2 M42 adapter to screw on the end of the CC to then screw into the camera I effectively add 7.3mm to the total distance because I cannot screw the adapter down to be flush with the flange. So the question is - is the 55mm measured from the flange, or the very back of the threads on the CC, there appears to be no optical drawing I can find for the CC? The camera with T2 adapter has a backfocus distance of 1.98", so i'll be out at 57.6mm before including filters etc... I suspect the solution is a custom M48 adapter plate close to the correct thickness to screw the CC straight into, that or turn 3mm+ off the end of the CC in the lathe 🥶
  8. I don't necessarily think that's a problem the code appears to support any cameras your RPi works with - it just needs different configuration options. https://github.com/CroatianMeteorNetwork/RMS#capture Note the most recommended camera is analog and uses a USB analog to digital dongle to interface to the RPi.
  9. Dont they have these in stock on amazon uk? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELP-Webcam-USB3-0-Camera-Webcamera/dp/B07KMW5TRS
  10. Well, like I said my experience with my first 200mm was so poor I bought another and that was, if anything, worse. I even built an ollypenrice type micro-focuser basically a 3D printed lever clamped around the focuser barrel which was some 150mm long with an M3 rod and a thumbwheel, then subsequently a fully motorised micro-focuser using HFR focusing. Your images look like they are stopped down, these lenses aren't slow compared to telescopes - they're quite fast esp the 135mm F2.5 is in the very fast range, I will concede I found them to be somewhat better performing stopped down using a step down filter adapter (I find the aperture blades detract from the images) - but then its slow, which defeats the point, and in all honesty still nowhere near as good as the benchmark lens for this type of imaging: the Samyang 135mm F2, its flat across the field, fast and free from aberrations even wide open. There are many more threads across the internet in general with people with performance problems with these lenses than success', and once I'd failed to see a noticeable performance improvement using a halpha filter I gave up and these lenses wont see the light of night again for imaging.
  11. Unfortunately in my experience (2x200mm F4, 1x135mm F2.5) these SMC lenses are just no good for astro - even though some people appear to get good results with them. To reach proper focus you need to do the 3 screw trick, you need the thin version of M42 adapter, you need to remove the pin on the lens that pushes against the adapter. Once you get to proper focus, without tilt in my experience; you get the most heinous star bloat - even with a Halpha filter in the image train its just provides totally unusable data using a Canon EOS body astro modded or my cooled mono CCD.
  12. This popped up in my YT feed a few days ago... Its quite interesting for 3D printing things in general but especially stuff that goes outside on cold damp days. I haven't tried it yet, still getting my new printer running right before I switch over to PETG - but it seems like a good way to make strong brackets without making them super thick and also waterproof electronics boxes, all sky cameras etc....
  13. I realise on consideration the other (probably better) method, is using PCB printing paper and adhering the toner to glass... https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/pcb-toner-transfer-paper?variant=45222872270&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwlID8BRAFEiwAnUoK1eHj7KnvNASDiU4w20kUj6n_DuhFZLxh3x6JABt7iNEtvxpcVAhPYBoC1goQAvD_BwE Any 600 dpi laser printer should be fine, even a bog standard £40 special can print a toner transfer for even the most ridiculously small legged chips. This place appears to have them in stock at sensible prices and despite the 1998 looking website it does have a COVID19 notice up so would appear to be in buisness still http://www.awrtech.co.uk/awr_cat.htm
  14. 600dpi is 42um dots, so if you aim to print the lines in the 600dpi direction, perpendicular to the way the paper feeds, and print screens in 42, 84, 126, 168um lines you should get a usable result. The way 2400dpi is achieved wont work for printing 10.5um lines, its not really 2400dpi.
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