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John78

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About John78

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  1. Indeed - what I need is a M48 faceplate for the camera - which QSI don't appear to make, the SX one looks like it would be able to fit if you make a small adapter plate - or I could machine a whole new one - although cutting the thread might be a challenge and then I'd need to find someone to anodise it.
  2. Is anyone using a QSI 683wsg camera with a Skywatcher coma corrector - I have one on the way (camera) and I forsee back-focus issues, The Skywatcher CC has M48 threads, if I use the M48->T2 M42 adapter to screw on the end of the CC to then screw into the camera I effectively add 7.3mm to the total distance because I cannot screw the adapter down to be flush with the flange. So the question is - is the 55mm measured from the flange, or the very back of the threads on the CC, there appears to be no optical drawing I can find for the CC? The camera with T2 adapter has a backfocus di
  3. I don't necessarily think that's a problem the code appears to support any cameras your RPi works with - it just needs different configuration options. https://github.com/CroatianMeteorNetwork/RMS#capture Note the most recommended camera is analog and uses a USB analog to digital dongle to interface to the RPi.
  4. Dont they have these in stock on amazon uk? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELP-Webcam-USB3-0-Camera-Webcamera/dp/B07KMW5TRS
  5. Well, like I said my experience with my first 200mm was so poor I bought another and that was, if anything, worse. I even built an ollypenrice type micro-focuser basically a 3D printed lever clamped around the focuser barrel which was some 150mm long with an M3 rod and a thumbwheel, then subsequently a fully motorised micro-focuser using HFR focusing. Your images look like they are stopped down, these lenses aren't slow compared to telescopes - they're quite fast esp the 135mm F2.5 is in the very fast range, I will concede I found them to be somewhat better performing stopped down using
  6. Unfortunately in my experience (2x200mm F4, 1x135mm F2.5) these SMC lenses are just no good for astro - even though some people appear to get good results with them. To reach proper focus you need to do the 3 screw trick, you need the thin version of M42 adapter, you need to remove the pin on the lens that pushes against the adapter. Once you get to proper focus, without tilt in my experience; you get the most heinous star bloat - even with a Halpha filter in the image train its just provides totally unusable data using a Canon EOS body astro modded or my cooled mono CCD.
  7. This popped up in my YT feed a few days ago... Its quite interesting for 3D printing things in general but especially stuff that goes outside on cold damp days. I haven't tried it yet, still getting my new printer running right before I switch over to PETG - but it seems like a good way to make strong brackets without making them super thick and also waterproof electronics boxes, all sky cameras etc....
  8. I realise on consideration the other (probably better) method, is using PCB printing paper and adhering the toner to glass... https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/pcb-toner-transfer-paper?variant=45222872270&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwlID8BRAFEiwAnUoK1eHj7KnvNASDiU4w20kUj6n_DuhFZLxh3x6JABt7iNEtvxpcVAhPYBoC1goQAvD_BwE Any 600 dpi laser printer should be fine, even a bog standard £40 special can print a toner transfer for even the most ridiculously small legged chips. This place appears to have them in stock at sens
  9. 600dpi is 42um dots, so if you aim to print the lines in the 600dpi direction, perpendicular to the way the paper feeds, and print screens in 42, 84, 126, 168um lines you should get a usable result. The way 2400dpi is achieved wont work for printing 10.5um lines, its not really 2400dpi.
  10. NINA is absolutely brilliant, its more than just an AP control app, its like an AP control OS although it uses all the tools you know and love under the hood it pulls them all together in one window in one umbrella in a logical fashion - for free, and as pointed out the autofocusing routines in particular are spot on and more featured than in any other tool I've used. In my opinion its totally left SGP in the dust, even without knowing its going to subs business model. The other nice thing it does is uses the astrometry API to solve your images if plate-solving fails, takes a
  11. Thats a brilliant image! For star masks - try starnet++, easy, free, accurate starless images and mask.
  12. Having owned both (well, I still own a 130PDS), the 130PDS is much faster, if you use a SW 0.9x CC much much faster - F4.5 vs F6.37! The 80ED weighs 4.1kg with tube rings vs 4kg for a 130PDS. They are both excellent scopes, the 130P-DS is phenomenal value but trickier to use to begin with, and its trickier to balance on the mount as all the mass is at the focuser end the mirror doesn't provide anywhere near enough counterbalance. So the real differentiators are the price and the great divider of astrophotographers - do you like diffraction spikes or not?
  13. Although this is not UK its Germany I've heard some good reviews from his service. http://www.stathis-firstlight.de/spiegelschleifen/materialeng.htm
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