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John78

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About John78

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  1. John78

    Auto Guiding and EQMod

    So everytime it BSOD's it writes the log to the screen and the hard disc so either screen shot or the log file should help identify the issue.
  2. John78

    Auto Guiding and EQMod

    Have you got the BSOD dump files or have the code? I had a lot of issues with BSOD with Win7 32bit and astro software.
  3. John78

    Auto Guiding and EQMod

    So - this shouldn't be able to happen (its the way its architected) assuming you pick the same HEQ5 (and not a simulator etc..) from the drop down it should just connect to the same instance of eqmod as stellarium scope. If you click properties on the ascom selector before clicking connect does it look the same as the old one with the same com port. The only reservation I have, is stellarium / stellarium scope and ascom really don't play properly together in my experience and require starting in the correct same, order every time - I long since swapped to CdC, whilst nowhere near as pretty as Stellarium just works, first time, every time no matter what order you start things in.
  4. John78

    Sharpcap platesolve

    If you still have the images from your dslr that failed - upload them to nova.astrometry.net if it solves them, you can solve them too for a DSLR image you almost certainly need to use 4x on the binning option to get it solving reliably the images are just too many pixels for it to handle.
  5. OP could just buy the 2" carousel from FLO - if he has a FF though he'll never get the FW in the image train within the backfocus distance.
  6. So, Did you tell cdc where you live in gps coordinates +/- 10 miles, its default is London. Platesolving will land you bang on regardless what misinformation you feed it however - its can be follicle challenging getting it to work properly sometimes. Assuming you found Alkaid properly (can you post the image? we can platesolve it to be sure!), then to go the no platesolve route then yes, you would sync the target, then as suggested would triangulate the target by picking two more bright stars that bound the target and sync them also. Then slew to the target, if you cant see the target its either too dim, your out of focus or something else is wrong. No matter how frustrating this all gets, if you can upload an image to astrometry, and it can solve it, you can solve it offline. Experience tells me (given what I generally produce) astrometry can solve ANYTHING!! http://nova.astrometry.net/
  7. John78

    EQ-5 To GoTo Benefits?

    The goto handset you linked has much faster motors in than the enhanced dual axis kit - which whilst (the enhanced dual axis kit) could be used as a goto would take most of the night to slew to the target. Given the other questions you pose ref connecting to a PC its substantially cheaper to go with an AstroEQ rather than the Skywatcher route, sure you don't get the standalone 3 star alignment etc... to go to objects purely using the handset, but since you've already got a laptop you can just platesolve instead - the issuette to that is they are not currently for sale but you can DIY it... https://www.astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php All in buying everything, pulleys, motors, boards and chips or buying a arduino mega and protoshield, everything, and you'll have change from £100. EQ5 + 130PDS + 1000d + guiding = no problem
  8. John78

    75-300mm focus problem

    I think its OK - you'll get much better images using a HEQ5, but depending on how long you have in your imaging session shooting many images would yield better results than shooting in video mode.
  9. John78

    75-300mm focus problem

    Your single frame is in focus (see below).... So next time you go out take several hundred frames and stack them - it will fix the noise and also seeing issues so you will get a much much better picture. If its possible with your DSLR you want to lock the mirror up and take the frames so the shutter actuation doesn't keep shaking setup.
  10. John78

    75-300mm focus problem

    That looks in focus to me, what you're used to seeing on here is stacks of lunar images not just single frames which are then sharpened, I suspect that's why your frames seems soft. Your technique for focusing should work OK, using manual focus will also work - but I think if you took 200+ of those lunar images and processed them using registax or autostakkert you would get the result you expect.
  11. You can buy that fr for about £79 if you shop around - I've tried it on my SW 80ED using a qhy174m, 11x7mm sensor, its not flat (enough for mosaic), so it will be worse to the edge of your 17.7 chip, but maybe its better matched to an Altair scope (I doubt it). If this was available at the time I made my purchases, I'd buy it and the ff/fr without hesitation. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/sky-watcher-evostar-72ed-ds-pro-ota.html
  12. As title, surplus to requirements since upgrading to a SX-USB filter wheel. Good exterior condition but some scratching to the internal wheel in 1 position - doesn't effect functionality nor is it visible once in situ, orginal box and all parts, caps, thumb screws. £45 including recorded delivery.
  13. John78

    ZWO ASIair

    Its the official Rpi box though isn't it? https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-store/products/official-raspberry-pi-3-case-black-grey
  14. That's a good hub so highly doubtful the issue. From what you've said the issue always occurs when you plug in the camera? Have you tried another camera USB lead, Canon's are notoriously fussy with the USB lead.
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