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Imaging Jupiter With DSLR?


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Hi

I finally got the chance to image Jupiter, it's my first planetary imaging with my Canon 60Da, I've only ever done deep sky. 

Anyway I was looking for some tips since my images were disappointing (compared to the view through my eyepiece). What settings ISO etc would you recommend and also I tried taking a video but Jupiter was just a big white ball. Is there any way to change that or would I need a CCD?

My obsession with Jupiter begins!

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For imaging Jupiter the best tool is a webcam really - but you can do it with a dslr in video mode. You'd need to stack all the frames though using Registax (free to d/l) and pick the best ones. Bear in mind the planet rotates so a couple of mins worth is more than enough.

Ones all your frames are stacked you can then tweak the image in Photoshop or such like. Planets are bright so you only need very short exposures - less than 100th of a second. If it's just a white ball you could be over exposed. Hth :)

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Hi guys.

I was just about to post a question when I saw this.

How to get a good video of Jupiter for stacking.

I'm only getting a bright ball as was mentioned in previous post,

I am a beginner to dslr cameras, how do I get short exposures, I can't seem to find a setting on my camera.

A canon eos 1200d.

Thanks

Nigel.

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I tried shooting a couple of videos using the DSLR but Jupiter is just a white ball with its moons. I'm not sure how to change the settings for video if it's even possible? I didn't do too bad with taking images although I used a variety of settings to see what works.

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When you try Jupiter (or other planet)  you must understand that you can not shot the planet surface details and moons.
To register both targets you must do two different movies and compose them in graphic processor. One with ISO and speed shutter for planet surface and other to catch the moons.

You must use the planetary mode from BackyardEOS and set 5x mode, ISO and speed shutter. I don't remember what speed I used, but I can say that for surface of planet you will use low ISO as 200 or 200 and 1/40 sec (perhaps less) of speed.

DLRs can do planets, but the best camera will be CCD or CMOS webcam type. The sensor of DSLRs are very large, and the planet will be showed very small. Use of barlows and 5x mode is very important if you want some size of the planet and surface detail.

You can do many single frames JPG files, also. With total time from 30 sec to 60 sec you will not need to do derrotation. Registax will stack them.

Example of Jupiter with GSO 305 mm, Focal Extender 3x, ASI120MC and stock Canon 1100D

comp-ASI-CanonT3.jpg

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Although BYE generates uncompressed AVI files the data is downloaded from the camera as a series of JPEGs.  This is not ideal for planetary imaging but having said that I have seen some decent planetary images taken with DSLRs.

Cheers,

Chris

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Jerry Lodriguss has an excellent CD-Rom book dedicated to Planetary Photography with a DSLR, i strongly recommend it.

I have a Canon 60D (not the Da as you have), although i presume they are near identical in terms of features.

Basically, you don't actually need a laptop and BYEOS (although they can make life easier). I took this image with just my DSLR connected to my C8:

post-27374-0-84043000-1452693669.jpg

Things to note:

If Jupiter is showing a a white ball then you need to go into your camera's viseo settings and change the Exposeure to Manual. Then you can drop the ISO down, as this is what's causing the surfacr to overexpose.

You should use the Movie Crop Mode of your camera. This gives you a 1:1 pixel ratio, as well as an effective zoom of x7.

Jupiter is near impossible to focus on, so focus on one of it's moons or a nearby star first before slewing to Jupiter.

Depending on your focal length you will also need a barlow. On my C8 i use an x2.

You will need to do a pretty decent alignment, so that you can keep jupiter in the frame for about 2 mins while you take the video. it doesn't matter if it moves about, just use your had controller to keep it in the frame.

I personally prefer Autostakkert2! to stack the images. Then you can either Registax or PS (or both) to finish it off.

You don't say what telescope you're using? The longer the focal length, the better for Planetary.

ps - Eventually if you're feeling brave you could also look into installing Magic Lantern on your camera to unlock raw video mode which will give you 14 bit data to work with instead of only 8 bit.

Good luck!

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Although BYE generates uncompressed AVI files the data is downloaded from the camera as a series of JPEGs.  This is not ideal for planetary imaging but having said that I have seen some decent planetary images taken with DSLRs.

Cheers,

Chris

I have consulted the BYE forum on this and am advised that:

The LiveView data that is provided to BYE by the Canon SDK and the camera is indeed a series of JPEG images which BYE assembles into an AVI.  Because the image is designed to display on the LCD screen, it is reduced in size to fit that screen.  That is the reason for the recommendation that you use the 5X Zoom feature in BYE for Planetary capture.  This results in a full-sized image that is cropped to fit on the LCD screen. Just because the files are JPEGS does not mean that they are compressed to reduce the color palette.

As regards the RAW images:

BYE downloads the RAW Files which the Canon DSLR produces, nothing more.  The Camera's Onboard DIGIC Processor reads the Sensor Data and packages it rather "Unprocessed" (hence "Raw") into the CR2 File.

Canon RAW "CR2" File Formats do have some Internal Compression - but it has been shown time and again to be Lossless Compression.

Peter

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I have done a lot of work in this area and yes, CR2 files are lossless - which has nothing to do with this conversation that I can see.

However, the JPEG images which are assembled into an AVI are standard JPEG images and are lossy.

Chris

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Made up from JPEGs though , not uncompressed data .

Don't conflate the ideas of "Standard JPG Usage" and the "basic abilities of the JPEG Format".

YES, most uses of JPEG Images include either/both Heavy Compression or Heavy Resizing.  But there is nothing that forces a JPEG Image to be stored with either Lossy Compression or Resizing/Interpolation.

BackyardEOS (BYE) uses the Canon SDK to gain access to the Internal Image Stream which the Canon Digic Processor is reading off the Sensor in order to produce the LiveView LCD Display.  The Canon SDK allows for control of the In-Camera Zoom-level of that LiveView Data Feed.  At "Full Size", the approx 5000 Pixel Sensor Image is Resized to produce the approx 1000 pixel LCD Display (each Model has its own combo of Sensor and LCD Resolutions), but at "5x Zoom" mode that LiveView uses a Center Crop that produces a 1:1 Pixel Ratio.

This 5xLiveView Image Data Feed is accessed, downloaded as BMP data temporarily stored in Uncompressed JPEG, and fed through a background process that assembles them into an AVI.

Depending on the EOS Model and the Image Capture System (SUB2 Cabling, Hub, PC USB Port, etc), this results in 10-30fps of approx 1100x700 1:1 Pixel AVI data.

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However, the JPEG images which are assembled into an AVI are standard JPEG images and are lossy.

Have you actually used the BackyardEOS Planetary Video Capture mode??  Or the equivalent Feature of APT??

Or are you talking about simply taking MOV Video using the Canon DSLR's built-in Video Capture??

These are Very Different functions.

And, YES:  Canon Video Capture output will make VERY POOR input for Planetary Video Stacking.

But, this latter has nothing to do with JPEG Compression and everything to do with How the Video is Captured.  Standard Video captured by the Camera is sourced as Full Resolution/Full Sensor Images which must immediately be Down-Res'd (Resized/Interpolated) from 18-20MP 5000-pixel Horizontal data into 1920-pixel FullHD format.  This is NOT a CROP, as Daytime Videographers would NEVER Settle for getting only the Center 1/9th of their FOV (and DSLRs are targeted at the desires of Daytime Users).  It is this Down-Res'ing that produces the Massive Quality Loss of attempting to perform Planetary Video using just the standard Canon DSLR (without BYE Planetary Video Feature).

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Jerry Lodriguss has an excellent CD-Rom book dedicated to Planetary Photography with a DSLR, i strongly recommend it.

I have a Canon 60D (not the Da as you have), although i presume they are near identical in terms of features.

Basically, you don't actually need a laptop and BYEOS (although they can make life easier).

You should use the Movie Crop Mode of your camera. This gives you a 1:1 pixel ratio, as well as an effective zoom of x7.

Crop Movie Mode will produce some of the BEST Planetary Video of which Canon DSLRs are capable.

But...  Crop Movie Mode is available on only 3 out of the long list of Canon DSLRs: T2i, 60D (and 60Da variant), T3i 

After these Models, Canon dropped support for Crop Movie Mode - presumably because it was of limited value to, and caused confusion for, their Daytime Amateur Videographers.

The T3i implementation was actually done as an internal 5x Crop of LiveView - a Feature that made its way to the Canon SDK through which BYE and APT now offer LiveView-based Planetary Video Capture for all LiveView-enabled Canon DSLRs.

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