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Seben laser collimator


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I am thinking of buying a laser collimator and wondered if anyone has used a SEBEN laser and if they are any good or not. I understand all the provisos needed for alignment of the laser etc for it to be any use but I am going to try one. Any info would be greatly appreciated...Regards...Geoff

As an after thought does the power output of the laser make much difference as some are highlighted as being 5mw as opposed to some being only 1 mw.

Thanks again

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I have one and I like it a lot.

I bought a baader one years ago and I left the batteries in for a prolonged period and they leaked so ruined it. Not wanting to spend a fortune I opted for the Seben.

It was well collimated out of the box and I have not had to adjust it. It is easy to do though and easy to test (just put it in a v shaped grove so it stays still and turn it around and see if the dot moves on the wall - simples.

I used mine to align both the secondary and the primary and it works a treat. Did it yesterday and focus looked spot on to me.

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I have one and I like it a lot.

I bought a baader one years ago and I left the batteries in for a prolonged period and they leaked so ruined it. Not wanting to spend a fortune I opted for the Seben.

It was well collimated out of the box and I have not had to adjust it. It is easy to do though and easy to test (just put it in a v shaped grove so it stays still and turn it around and see if the dot moves on the wall - simples.

I used mine to align both the secondary and the primary and it works a treat. Did it yesterday and focus looked spot on to me.

Does the laser seem powerful enough to see as I am worried it might not be powerful enough in the evening as stated in the other answer

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I have one and it works fine once I shim the draw-tube with some very thin paper (e.g. a shopping receipt). If I don't do this, there is enough slop between the collimator and draw-tube to allow the laser beam to move up to to 10 mm away from the centre spot on the primary just by gently pushing the collimator.

I have a 10" F5 newt, so this works out as an error of nearly 0.5o

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I have one and it works fine once I shim the draw-tube with some very thin paper (e.g. a shopping receipt). If I don't do this, there is enough slop between the collimator and draw-tube to allow the laser beam to move up to to 10 mm away from the centre spot on the primary just by gently pushing the collimator.

I have a 10" F5 newt, so this works out as an error of nearly 0.5o

Thanks for the info. I will check that out as soon as it arrives....Regards.Geoff

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It required collimation, so I followed this method........www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE09_X43UUQ (copy paste that link )

The Laser also became temperamental and would not switch on/off cleanly, so I learnt how to disassemble the switch gear, Its fiddly, but I solved my issues!


But some folk still don't trust the lasers?


That said. a Laser works very well when Barlowed.......https://www.cameraconcepts.com/barlowed%20laser%20collimation.pdf


That all said, from dust cap to 35mm cartridge to Laser to Cheshire, I prefer initial set-up using the Cheshire, and the Barlowed laser at night for a quick check.

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