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New Observatory Build Started!

richyrich_one

By richyrich_one
in DIY Observatories

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r3i

r3i

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That's a small hole through the block to support the mount. I'd suggest a plate between the nut and the bottom of the block to spread the force against potential crumbling.

I was thinking that too.

Build progress is looking good.  Keep the pictures coming :smile:.  It's a bit difficult to see from the pictures but have you fed some kind of line through your pipes to allow you to easily pull your cables through?

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richyrich_one

richyrich_one

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Build progress is looking good.  Keep the pictures coming :smile:.  It's a bit difficult to see from the pictures but have you fed some kind of line through your pipes to allow you to easily pull your cables through?

I haven't, as there is only one 90 deg and a long swept length I thought I would get away with it.

If not it should be easy enough to feed something reasonably stiff through with the cable taped to it.

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Tinker1947

Tinker1947

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Your stud and nuts holding the mount base in place as mentioned a wider washer to spread the load, a piece of 1/4 plate with glue between it and the concrete pier would be good, also a wingnut on the studding will allow easy removal of the mount for servicing ect...your doing a good job al the same......this is a very good adhesive......

http://www.ct1ltd.com/en

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malc-c

malc-c

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I would of used a length of threaded rod through all the blocks.  Not only would that help take away a lot of the leverage forces down through the pier, it would also help provide an additional phyiscal bracing in addition to whatever bonding method was used to join the blocks together.

It's quite surprising what forces can occur when you have several kg of 200P + weights + ST80 + camera + cable all slweing around a 800x siderial rate !

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richyrich_one

richyrich_one

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Looks fine. One question, why the small window at the far end?

That's a fold down flap to match with the door way from the "warm" room. I wanted to keep some rigidity on the southern roof section but maybe if the fold down flap was full width it would make little difference although obviously heavier.

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richyrich_one

richyrich_one

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I would of used a length of threaded rod through all the blocks.  Not only would that help take away a lot of the leverage forces down through the pier, it would also help provide an additional phyiscal bracing in addition to whatever bonding method was used to join the blocks together.

It's quite surprising what forces can occur when you have several kg of 200P + weights + ST80 + camera + cable all slweing around a 800x siderial rate !

Not bonded at all, 14mm stainless bolts between blocks. I thought of bonding in some way but didn't want to introduce any flexibility.

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Tinker1947

Tinker1947

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Not bonded at all, 14mm stainless bolts between blocks. I thought of bonding in some way but didn't want to introduce any flexibility.

Give it a squirt of the CT1 and it won't flex 1" in from the edge all round and then corner to corner, your break the brick before you split the joint....

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CoolHand142

CoolHand142

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Just shifted the sand and cement round the back and decided that's probably it for today as far as the concrete in concerned. Far too hot for hard work(mixing by hand :eek: )

I have a bit of planning and jigging to do to get the first section of pier in the right position before I get pouring.

Going for this type of pier, cheap, simple and I rent so need to be able to leave minimal signs should I have to move. 3 blocks attached with 14mm stainless bolts. The plan is to embed half of the first block in the concrete base then bolt the rest to it.

attachicon.gifgallery_4564_1903_81106.jpg

Nice project. .. one of the reasons i choose astronomy as a hobby was it didn't require heavy lifting. Well that's when i only had a 10x80 pair of binocs, then apperture fever struck!

Now my friends in SGL have given me a dose of OBSY

what is the goal of the obsy? Just to keep equipment and you from elements? What is size of scope planned for 2.4mx2.4

When considering a diy obsy... but how much clearance and walk space do u plan

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk

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richyrich_one

richyrich_one

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Nice project. .. one of the reasons i choose astronomy as a hobby was it didn't require heavy lifting. Well that's when i only had a 10x80 pair of binocs, then apperture fever struck!

Now my friends in SGL have given me a dose of OBSY

what is the goal of the obsy? Just to keep equipment and you from elements? What is size of scope planned for 2.4mx2.4

When considering a diy obsy... but how much clearance and walk space do u plan

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk

I've got the imaging bug so it will save masses of setup time. Means I can go out on a whim. Or more likely pack up easily when it clouds over.

Initially built to take my 250P-DS. The way I saw it clearance was only really needed behind and to the sides of the scope. As long as the length of the scope in a horizontal position plus a bit more fitted, that left loads elsewhere. Plus 2.4m was the largest I could sensibly "afford".

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CoolHand142

CoolHand142

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I've got the imaging bug so it will save masses of setup time. Means I can go out on a whim. Or more likely pack up easily when it clouds over.

Initially built to take my 250P-DS. The way I saw it clearance was only really needed behind and to the sides of the scope. As long as the length of the scope in a horizontal position plus a bit more fitted, that left loads elsewhere. Plus 2.4m was the largest I could sensibly "afford".

Oh dear, budget has kept me immune to the image bug for the moment. Following your project with great interest.

Thanks for the reply rich

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk

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Tinker1947

Tinker1947

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I've got the imaging bug so it will save masses of setup time. Means I can go out on a whim. Or more likely pack up easily when it clouds over.

Initially built to take my 250P-DS. The way I saw it clearance was only really needed behind and to the sides of the scope. As long as the length of the scope in a horizontal position plus a bit more fitted, that left loads elsewhere. Plus 2.4m was the largest I could sensibly "afford".

You can make extra space by using extra weights they bye making the weight bar shorter, my 250P-DS, guide scope ect has 5 weights so the bar is all but pushed right in.....

DSC_0189.jpg

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richyrich_one

richyrich_one

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Some progress, very slow due to the almost constant rain at the moment.

I managed to get all the uprights for the walls cut to length and when I get an hour or two in the dry I try and get a wall constructed. That way I can just lay the wall flat for now and cover the whole lot with the tarp. Bracing to be added later when I see what off-cuts I have left over.

South...

post-36192-0-52429900-1440508168_thumb.j

West...

post-36192-0-71208100-1440508240_thumb.j

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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Before things get too heavy to move - do you have any damp proofing between the blocks and your timber base?  if not then may I suggest you get some damp proof strip and put a piece in between each timber/block.  This is the sort of stuff I mean:  http://www.wickes.co.uk/Visqueen-Polythene-Damp-Proof-Course-100mm-x-30m/p/226579?CAWELAID=120135120000016696&CAGPSPN=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping%20-%20Building%20Materials&tmcampid=&tmad=c&tmplaceref=pDInpiPa&tmcustom=mkwid|spDInpiPa_dc|pcrid|43364522812|kword||match||plid|&gclid=COrDh5qsxMcCFYIcGwods7cPmQ Without it damp will move up the blocks and into your timber.

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r3i

r3i

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It might be worth adding some 45 degree angled bracing into each wall to give additional rigidity.

Edit - ignore comment above - I hadn't noticed you'd mentioned that you were going to add bracing later.

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