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hughgilhespie

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About hughgilhespie

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    First tentative steps in DSO imaging
  • Location
    North Devon
  1. Hi Rodd, The Skyris 236C looks as if it's designed to be used with a USB 3.0 connection. The hub on the ASI1600 only provides USB 2 connectors so that might be a problem. HTH Regards, Hugh
  2. If you have a spare position on your filter wheel you can block it with something opaque to make a sort of shutter. I have done this with my ZWO 8 position filter wheel. I machined a bit of black Delrin plastic rod to fit in the 31 mm opening with a thin flange to stop it falling through, then secured it using the little screws that come with the filter wheel. When it's in place, it does completely block out all the light from the telescope side. Regards, Hugh
  3. Hi, I am enjoying using my FSQ106 ED at f/5 with an ASI1600 MM Pro. Image scale is nice, 1.48 "/px at 1:1 binning. Field of view at f/5 is a useful 1.91 x 1.44 degrees. HTH Regards, Hugh
  4. Hi, No problems if the guide scope is a bit off-axis, it might be a problem if it is a long way adrift. The most important thing is to make sure that the guide scope mounting is rock solid to the main telescope to eliminate any chance of differential movement when guiding. For a suggestion - have you considered using a Pegasus Astro UPB or the HiTec Astro equivalent in place of your dew controller. I realise they are more expensive but the in-built powered USB hub is brilliant and will do more than anything else to sort out cabling. With the extra USB 2.0 ports from these hubs the mini PC in your design can be one with say one or two USB3.0 and one or two USB 2.0 ports. This increases your choice of mini PC. I have just started using a Kodlix GN41 mini PC and while it is very early days, it does seem to be a good 'un. I agree with Pete_l too. Shorten your mounting plate as much as possible. If I was designing this I would go for 6 mm thick aluminium plate to give plenty of rigidity. HTH Regards, Hugh
  5. Hi SkipperBilly, I originally ran two Cat6 cables into the observatory but I ended up adding a four port switch so I could connect to the OTA computer, a laptop / and or / obsy computer, a net controlled 8-channel power switch and my obsy camera. I can then remotely switch on the main 14 volt power supply which supplies power to the OTA computer. I can then use WakeOnLan to start the OTA computer - all without leaving the nice, warm house! This a diagram of the various connections. Regards, Hugh OTAPowerNet.pdf
  6. Hi SkipperBilly, In my observatory, I use an OTA mounted computer that is permanently connected to a wired network. Normally I control the OTA computer from my desktop computer in the house via Windows RDP. The wired network connection to the OTA also allows me to start the OTA computer using Wake On Lan. To allow me to control the OTA computer when I am in the observatory, I installed a small 4-port network switch. I take a laptop into the observatory and plug that into the network, then use RDP to access the OTA computer while inside the observatory. This gives me full control - mouse, keyboard as well as a screen for the display. This works for me and it means I don't need a permanent observatory computer apart from the one mounted on the scope . You do need Cat5 or Cat 6 cable back to the router in the house but that is a fairly easy thing to do. Just my 2 old pence worth. Regards, Hugh
  7. Don't Jump To Conclusions So, I bought a Kodlix GN41 with a SanDisk Ultra 3D 500GB SSD. Arrived late February and I then spent nearly two weeks setting up all the astrophotography software I needed. The computer will be fixed to my OTA and will run - well, everything. It seemed to be a nice little unit, well made and the Windows 10 Pro set-up was a doddle with Serena telling me what to do at each stage. I got all the software installed and configured as I wanted. For once I managed to get Microsoft Remote Desktop working fairly easily and the last thing to do was set up Wake on LAN. I couldn't get this to work and a bit of internet research suggested checking whether WOL was enabled in the BIOS. According to Kodlix, pressing the Del key during start-up gets you into the bios. So, power down, power up and press Del. Nothing, nada, zip, sweet FA! I've managed to brick it! Tried everything I could think of but nothing worked. So, good ol' Amazon's return policy is nice and straight forward. Took out the SSD, repackaged the computer and stuck on the return label. I also took a bold (foolish?) decision and ordered a replacement - as far as I can tell Amazon don't offer the option of a replacement, you have to return and re-order a new one. I went to bed disheartened but determined to persevere. This morning I reconnected my now spare monitor to my desktop to act as a second screen. Guess what? Nothing, nada, zip, sweet FA! Yep! It was a monitor failure. Hastily tore off the return label and opened up the box with the Kodlix in. Reconnected with a different monitor and yes - working perfectly. Powered down, powered up and pressed Del - up came the AMI bios screen. Checked and found WOL was set to disabled. Enabled it, save and exit. Tried it and yippeee - it worked! This is the first time I have ever managed to set up WOL without having to get some paid-for help! So, my apologies to Mr Kodlix for some very unkind thoughts I may have had. Some of them may even have been said aloud. There is an obvious moral to this tale - as set out right at the beginning. For me, as soon as I have finished writing out 100 lines of 'Think before you act and don't jump to conclusions' I will be back to setting up my new ZWO OAG which was the whole reason for getting a new computer. Regards, A Wiser Hugh
  8. Hi Ryan, I'm afraid I have no idea if the camera is compatible with Maxim or TheSkyX. In fact I didn't know you could even use CCTV camera with these programs. I just use the Reolink software and it works fine for what I do. Regards, Hugh
  9. Hi Ryan, This is the camera I use in my observatory. It is an Ethernet camera with POE although it came with a POE injector as well. It is not the smallest of cameras but it has been completely reliable and I like the ability to have a number of preset views - dome drive, shutter drive, scope, etc. I have had it since November 2017. I bought from Amazon, about £200. One other feature is that to get the views I wanted I had to install it 'upside down'. The software then lets you show the image the right way up. R eolink PTZ PoE IP Security Camera 4 Megapixels Super HD 2560*1440 Pan Tilt 4X Optical Zoom High Speed Dome Outdoor Indoor RLC-423 HTH Regards, Hugh
  10. Hi Chris, One point to keep in mind with your Pulsar observatory is that it is much better to go for a 'piggyback' arrangement of scopes, rather than side by side. The shutter opening is fairly narrow, I think about 600 mm, and with a side by side arrangement, when you allow for the lack of accuracy in the dome rotation position, say +/- 50 mm, there is a risk that one of the scopes will be pointing at plastic, not the night sky. HTH. Regards, Hugh
  11. One thing to bear in mind about the so-called 'aviation' plugs is that their cable clamping range is minuscule. To have the cable securely clamped, you need exactly the right size cable. I know they are called 'aviation' connectors but speaking personally I would never set foot on any aeroplane that used connectors like these. The Neutrik XLR connectors are far, far better. Regards, Hugh
  12. And while we are on the topic, many (really many) years ago an enterprising cousin of mine, young J, decided hot water bottles were just so passe, so he decided to warm his bed by putting a light bulb on an extension cable in the bed for an hour or so before bedtime. No one died but the house was badly damaged and young J had to come and live with us for several months while his house had a new roof put on. Regards, Hugh
  13. I had a spare position on my 8-position ZWO filter wheel, so I machined a solid black Delrin insert to fit in the filter holder. It won't help if light is leaking into the camera itself but it is 100% effective at stopping any light coming through from the telescope. That said, I still take my darks at night, with the end cap on the telescope. Belt and bracers! Regards, Hugh
  14. Come on Steve, admit it! You photoshopped it!! Regards, Hugh
  15. Brilliant! Thanks Dave. Regards, Hugh
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