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hughgilhespie

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About hughgilhespie

  • Rank
    Proto Star

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    First tentative steps in DSO imaging
  • Location
    North Devon
  1. Hi Steve, No problems and I hope you had a good time. I am also off gallivanting with the family for one week on February 15th. We have rented a large house in St Ives and there will be 10 of us there so it should be fun, albeit exhausting! Take care, Hugh
  2. Hi Steve, It seems a long time since the last postings. I spent quite a bit of it looking for an elusive software bug in the MOVING module code. Eventually, after nearly abandoning the whole project I discovered it wasn't a bug at all. My ULN2003 chip had died! Anyway, I have made a bit more progress on the User Manual side and I have now (I think) finally finished the software. It has been tested using my actual observatory computer with LesveDomeNet and everything seems to work as planned. The latest files are attached. Let me know if you have any problems. Regards, Hugh Manual_Rev0.pdf MagicWireMOVING_master.ino MagicWireSTATIC_master.ino
  3. Hi Steve, I have been working on the updated documentation for the PCB version of Magic Wire. It is still a work in progress with quite a lot left to write but I am sending you the document as far as I have managed to date. The last 3 pages are very relevant!! Regards, Hugh LESVEDOME DOME CONTROL HARDWARE_A4_MASTER_1_r1.pdf
  4. I expect the marketing department thought it was a really good idea. Not something that any technically minded person would do but.....
  5. Hi Steve, I have just looked at your latest photos and I am afraid that you still have the electrolytic capacitors in the wrong way round. The RED stripe on the top of the capacitor is on the NEGATIVE side. That may well be why you are not seeing any output from the 3.3 volt regulator on the static board. The correct orientation for the electrolytic capacitors is: Static Board: Side with red stripe nearest to the Safety Sensor terminal block. Moving Board: Side with red stripe nearest to Arduino Nano. For now, I suggest just removing the two capacitors. The boards will likely work OK without them so you can carry on testing before you replace them. I suggest the following order for testing: Static Board 1. Check voltage at Arduino Nano pin VIN - should be close to 5 volts 2. Check voltage at nRF24L01 pin 2 - should be close to 3.3 volts. If not the MCP1826S-3302E/AB regulator may be fried and you will have to wait for the replacement. 3. If the voltages in 1 & 2 are OK, hook up the Arduino Nano to your computer via a USB port as if you are going to program it. Set up in the Arduino IDE Tools menu for: Board "Arduino Nano" Processor "ATmega328P (Old Bootloader)" Port - whatever the actual com port you are using. Now open the Arduino serial monitor by clicking the icon like a magnifying glass in the top right of the screen. After a short pauseHopefully you will see the following MAGIG WIRE: STATIC MODULE STATIC Build Version 1.0 OPTIONS SELECTED ARE: OPTION TWO: DETECT_UNSAFE_CONDITION: This Option is ACTIVE If you see this then the Arduino side of things is working OK. If not, I suggest that you try uploading the code again and retrying. If it still doesn't work after a fresh upload it is possible that the Nano is duff. To test this, try to upload the 'blink' sketch - The command chain in the Arduino IDE is File - Examples - 01.Basics - Blink. if this won't work it is likely that the Nano is duff - so next would be to try the Nano from the Moving board. Hopefully, you will get to having a working Nano on the static board. After this you can repeat the same procedure, but this time with The Moving board. The Serial Monitor message you see should be: MAGIG WIRE: MOVING MODULE MOVING Build Version 1.2 OPTIONS SELECTED ARE: OPTION ONE: USE_LIMIT_SWITCHES: This Option is ACTIVE Shutter State is Case 0: No switches active. Shutter position not known OPTION THREE: CLOSE_ON_LOW_BATTERY: This Option is ACTIVE Shutter will close when voltage falls below 11.20 volts OPTION FOUR: CLOSE_ON_COMM_LOSS: This Option is ACTIVE That's probably enough for now. Let me know how you get on and once you get to having both Arduinos working OK we can do some testing of the radio modules. Regards, Hugh
  6. Hi Steve, Happy New Year to you. I have been out all day so only just seen your message. I will reply tomorrow and we can have a go at working out what's happening. Regards, Hugh
  7. Hi Gina, The input voltage regulators used on the Magic Wire boards only need ceramic caps which makes them easy to use. The electrolytic cap is to give a little boost to the nRF24L01 radio module when it goes into transmit mode. I looked at a few circuits for these and they all recommended using something like a 22 uf cap accross the 3.3 volt rail located very close to the module. So, I just copied what everyone else had done. Regards, Hugh
  8. Hi Steve, The only polarized capacitor is the 22uF electrolytic in the 3.3 volt rail so that shouldn't be a problem. The ceramics can be inserted either way round without problems. What are you using as your 12 volt supply - perhaps that is where the problem is if it's the only thing common to the moving and static boards? Sorry for your troubles. If you can give a bit more information I may be able to work out what's going wrong. Regards, Hugh
  9. Hi Steve, For some really stupid reason the Arduino IDE was updated so that cloned Nano's won't load unless you change the settings in Tools / Processor to 'ATmega328P (0ld Bootloader)' This change has caused loads of problems and caught out loads of people! Regards, Hugh
  10. Hi Steve, Sorry the RF24 library is misbehaving. I am very far from an expert on how to include Arduino libraries and in fact I think it is all a right mess with appallingly bad documentation but what does work for me is as follows. If you follow the link I put in my first post yesterday then you get to a web page 'Optimized High Speed NRF24L01+ Driver Class Documentation. Under the heading 'Useful References' is one called Download. Click on this and you will download RF24-master.zip. Download this somewhere then do 'Show in Folder'. Select then 'Extract All'. This will give you a folder called RF24-master. I then renamed the folder to RF24 and put it in my Arduino directory 'C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\RF24' Then I opened the Arduino IDE and under Sketch / Include Libraries I can see RF24. I click on this to include it and it adds the following to my sketch #include <nRF24L01.h> #include <RF24.h> #include <RF24_config.h> Hopefully everything will now work! Regards, Hugh
  11. Hi Steve, I have been out of action for a few days with some hospital stuff but I'm back at home and looking forward to making some progress. My final tasks are to construct the PCB version of the static module then put everything together in it's final configuration for testing. This will include the K8055 board (many thanks), then the static module -----radio ---radio---moving module, my little relay/limit switch board and my mini-shutter hardware. All this will then be tested using the Lesvedome software running on my actual OTA computer with and without SGP. If that all works I will be delighted and I will then think about producing the final documentation for the project. Let me know how your system works out. It is interesting because you will be using without the Magic Wire manual switch - should be OK but it will be nice to be sure!! Regards, Hugh
  12. Hi Steve, Try these - I think they are the ones I am using. Let me know if they don't work and I will dig a bit deeper. Regards, Hugh Also **See http://tmrh20.github.io/RF24 for all documentation** RF24.cpp RF24.h
  13. Hi Steve, I have modified the Arduino code for the Magic Wire project so that it works with the PCB based project and in particular, allows the manual opening and closing of the shutter using a switch attached to the Moving Module. The code for both Static and Moving modules is attached. The code is semi-tested but I would welcome all reports of bugs, problems, suggestions, etc. Finally - another boo-boo I made. The toggle switch I specified in the DigiKey parts list was meant to be a single pole, 3-position switch that had a momentary action. In fact the switch I ordered is a latching switch so you will have to manually operate and then return to the centre-off position. If the switch is left in either the open or close positions, it will stop the Lesvedome software from operating the shutter. Regards, Hugh MagicWireMOVING_1217b.ino MagicWireSTATIC_1216a.ino
  14. Hi Steve, Well done! But - I made a bad mistake! The DigiKey order I gave you was wrong. The 5 volt to 3.3 volt regulator I specified turned out to be a 1.2 volt output type, not the required 3.3 volts! I only spotted this this afternoon while I was soldering up my boards. I am very sorry about this, but you will have to remove the two regulators, part numbers MCP 1826S-1202E/AB-ND. I suggest just cutting through the legs and then unsoldering one leg at a time. I have ordered the correct parts from RS (MCP 1826S-3302E/AB) and they should be with me on Monday - worst case Tuesday. I have ordered enough for both of us so as soon as I get them, I will put a couple in the post to you. Once again my apologies for the cock up! On a slightly more positive note, I have modified the code for the Moving module to work with the manual open/close switch. This is completely untested and is sure to need some debugging but at least it's done. Regards, Hugh
  15. Points to look for: Does it have a licensed copy of Windows? If so, Pro version allows you to run Remote desktop which is very handy. Will it work from a 12 volt power supply? How much memory is installed? Can you add an SSD? How many USB2 and USB3 ports? Is it fanless? No vibrations HTH Regards, Hugh
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