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DIY powertank - Electrical Diagram

Vox45

By Vox45
in DIY Astronomer

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Physopto

Physopto

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If you really want to avoid soldering and are not happy with crimps try chocolate blocks. They are simple screw connectors. Easy to fit a wire and tighten up with a screwdriver.

This is what I mean if you are unsure.

Don't solder the end of the wire before fitting as some people do, it will just crush and eventually come loose. ( so keep you away from soldering :p )

Derek

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Vox45

Vox45

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I'll use distribution blocks so that's one thing I can do away with soldering. I'll keep in mind those chocolate blocks, very handy :)

I'll crimp whatever I can so, in the end,  I might end up with just a couple of items that will need some soldering.. time to get a book on soldering at the library ;)

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Vox45

Vox45

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I am leaning more on Alien 13 kind of setup so after a good night sleep it came to me that I don't need to buy the Astronomiser kit for the DSLR as I can add a 12V to 8V convertor/regulator in my panel.

So I revised my design and added 3x 12V convertor/regulator and 1x stepdown 12V / 8V:

1x for my 12V 2.5A powered hub

1x my mount

1x spare

1x for my DSLR 8V 1.5A

Added 3A fuses where I won't use fused cig lighter plugs (I'll change these plugs in a futur design)

I realise now that I do not need a regulator for my Startech powered hub as there is already one inside :) so that one less thing to worry about...

Just wondering where I should put the fuses, in my design I put the fuses after the regulators to protect the devices, do I need to put fuses in front too to protect each regulator ? seems like a lot of fuses ;)

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Physopto

Physopto

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I realise now that I do not need a regulator for my Startech powered hub as there is already one inside :) so that one less thing to worry about...

Just wondering where I should put the fuses, in my design I put the fuses after the regulators to protect the devices, do I need to put fuses in front too to protect each regulator ? seems like a lot of fuses ;)

Short answer, YES

Derek

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Alien 13

Alien 13

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You will need quite a few fuses the main one at the input from the battery is there to protect from wiring faults/short circuits within the box and needs to be rated slightly more than the maximum peak load but less than the wiring. Each active component realy needs a fuse on its input and output and its worth having indicator LEDs on each output and the main power switch to warn against plugging/unplugging when live and any psu failures.

Alan

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Snaxmuppet

Snaxmuppet

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I have decided... I am going to give it a go too. My design will basically follow yours except that I haven't yet decided how many outputs I shall have or of what voltages. I shall probably make most of my 12V outputs XLR but this is not yet decided. I shall probably use an XLR socket as the 12V input from a biggish (85 - 100Ah) AGM deep cycle battery which will be separate.

I think I am probably a way behind you in the learning but I'll give it a go :)

I think you can get fuse blocks that use blade fuses so you don't have to use in-line fuses all the time. Anyone know where to get these?

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Lonestar70

Lonestar70

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Here you go...

http://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/standard-blade-type-fuse-holders--fuses-59-c.asp

If you use XLR sockets make sure you use a different pin count for the main battery input (say a 4 way or a 5 way and use 2 pins for + and 2 pins for -) and  3 way versions for your 12v outputs etc... but only wire to the 2 outside pins... that way you cannot plug the main battery into the wrong socket in the dark... and you can't put the 12 volt output plugs in the wrong way round.

good luck with your build.

Best regards.

Sandy. :grin:

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Vox45

Vox45

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I did buy one of those for the fuses ... I'm gonna need a bigger one ;)

I asked Startech if the hub was fused and if there is an regulator inside... The answer is no on both counts. Which is a bit surprising since you can input 7-20V so there must be a step down to 5V (which I assume is the needed voltage for the hub...) and I was under the impression that a stepdown does regulate the voltage to a pure 5V output ?

Maybe I get the electrical vocabulary wrong. I'll write them back on monday to ask them to clarify.

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Lonestar70

Lonestar70

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Hi Vox45,

Are you asking Startech about the correct USB hub?... they make many different ones.

The type you need are the 'INDUSTRIAL' type which have a separate input voltage terminal block for an external DC power source of between 7 - 24v.

These are available in either 4 port or 7 port versions and YES they do have a switched mode down converter fitted internally to provide +5v for the USB ports.

They also make  'Consumer' versions of these... but they do not have a down converter... instead they provide a mains powered power supply which outputs +5v... however, these versions cannot be powered from an external 7- 24v DC source directly, they would need a step down regulator for +5v.

Both types can be powered via the USB bus from the PC/laptop... (limited to a total of 500mA... which is shared between all the ports)

None have fuses fitted... so (assuming you are using an 'Industrial' version) you would need to fit a fuse in the +12v input line from your battery which should be rated at 2 Amp for a 4 port hub... or 3.5 Amp for a 7 port hub.

Here is the spec sheet for the 'Industrial' 7 port version... the 4 port is the same other than having fewer ports.

http://cc.cnetcontent.com/inlinecontent/mediaserver/stech/703/6a5/7036a576c4e84aa9bc2de1bba8487a5b/original.pdf

I hope this helps.

Best regards.

Sandy. :grin:

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Vox45

Vox45

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HA !

Yes, I even put the reference for the Industrial one in my email to their support... Apparently they did not read my mail properly ;)

I was puzzled by the answer wondering how could it be that you could input 7-24v without having a regulator inside ...

Thanks for the specs and your input Sandy !

I just got back from an electronic store and asked some questions on my design, the person there was not very helpful :( I even got a puzzling answer when I asked about the fuses:

- "you don't need fuses"

- "ho?"

- "yeah, the components will burn before they do damages to your equipement"

So, his logic was: let the components act as fuses ??? really strange way to look at it. He also thought the 0.6mm wire was sufficient. When I said I was thinking about 2.5mm wires he rolled his eyes. I don't think I'll return to this store anytime soon.

Even if he his right on both account (I am no electronic wizard) this was real bad customer service.... No wonder the store was empty on a saturday afternoon...

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Alien 13

Alien 13

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Thats very bad advise you got, the issue with most lead acid batteries is that they can supply enough current to vaporise any wiring if there was a short circuit so fuses are vital and components do sometimes fail so its best to protect for all eventualities.

Any wiring used should idealy be rated for 2.5 times the maximum current required so for example a mount needing 2A would require wire rated for 5A  

Alan

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RLWP

RLWP

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 they can supply enough current to vaporise any wiring 

Two stories:

A very young Richard discovered the delights of shorting out a 12V battery with chicken wire. Great fun, the current follows the shortest path and burns out the joints in the wire, spreading out in a fan as they disintegrate

A somewhat older Richard accidentally shorted a 24V battery pack onto an engine. There was a pop, and a length of 4mm cable vaporised instantly, including the insulation

Please use fuses

Richard

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RLWP

RLWP

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OMG ! poor Richard :shocked:

a cautionary tale to remember

It wasn't a problem, I fitted a bigger cable and remembered to isolate the engine next time I removed the terminals. It was quite a surprise though

There's an awful lot of energy locked up in a 12V battery, and it's possible to release it quite quickly

Richard

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Physopto

Physopto

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It wasn't a problem, I fitted a bigger cable and remembered to isolate the engine next time I removed the terminals. It was quite a surprise though

There's an awful lot of energy locked up in a 12V battery, and it's possible to release it quite quickly

Richard

LiFePo batteries are even worse, they can really drop the current out very quickly. USE FUSES!!!!!

Derek

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