OMG - blown away by Atik 460ex first shot

[peroni]

Title says it all really 

FLO delivered my new camera today with NB filters and manual wheel. I spent a few hours phaffing: threads lightly lub'ed, filters in, focus achieved (finally), target found, temp set at -10 degs

I took my first shot at 30 secs exposure with the Ha filter in place, then realised this was wayyy too short. Upped the  exposure to 15 mins and was mightily impressed. Below is a the single frame loaded into PS and the grey point stretched to lighten image.

I'm taking more shots now and will post a stacked image later on. Soooo lucky to have a clear night on delivery day.

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

Nice one. Congrats on your early first light. Must be good karma

[PhotoGav]

Excellent, welcome to the CCD world, you will never look back! Unfortunately all the finest astro gear comes with the first night clear. You then have a taste of how amazing the piece of kit is and have to suffer even more for the following minimum of two weeks before the next clear night. Once you get through this induction period, you will absolutely adore your new CCD and want to spend every night with it!

[peroni]

Excellent, welcome to the CCD world, you will never look back! Unfortunately all the finest astro gear comes with the first night clear. You then have a taste of how amazing the piece of kit is and have to suffer even more for the following minimum of two weeks before the next clear night. Once you get through this induction period, you will absolutely adore your new CCD and want to spend every night with it!

I can feel the bug biting already. I hunger for more data and it's only been one evening on Ha. I understand now why people go for electric filter wheels and triple imaging rigs. 

[Fordos Moon]

Love seeing this image! I have an ED80 on a HEQ5 mount, and I am saving up for that very camera! I may be coming to you for advice in the future! ;-)

[peroni]

Love seeing this image! I have an ED80 on a HEQ5 mount, and I am saving up for that very camera! I may be coming to you for advice in the future! ;-)

You are more than welcome. I um and arr'ed for ages but took the jump and don't regret it. I'm on another steep learning curve now but lots of people on SGL to help 

[PatrickGilliland]

Welcome to the club!  CCD is the way forward and you are in for a more and more treats.  Probably don't need to stretch that much once you have a set of lights, just you wait and see how much better your images will be.  Good luck.

Paddy

[peroni]

Here is my second attempt. I'm messing about on Photoshop before I nail down a workflow. This image is 150 mins of Ha with flats and bias added. I haven't cropped it yet as it's a work in progress.

I Had a moment with the meridian ( I think that was the problem ). I start imaging and track object but then during the run the scope fouls the tripod. I repointed to polaris and then back to IC1805. Scope ended up on other side of tripod and not fouling. I'll have to plan for those events now. I think this is what people refer to as meridian flip ( I'd always assumed this was about scope balancing and not scope fouling ). Another lesson learned.

I'll grab some darks tonight; I tried today but seem to have some light bleed/detection even though I've covered scope and filter wheel with a sleeping bag. If I run the darks tonight there won't be any questions as to whether it was dark :-)

A side by side comparison below of 150mins (10 frames stacked) and 15 mins (1 frame)

 

[PatrickGilliland]

I think you are still pushing too hard - ccd narrowband data can be coaxed rather than forced.

You are loosing detail (dynamic range) through the stretch.

To assist I have attached an old IC1805 HA image.  This is not great but for your reference it will be good to view brightness/stretch.

What capture and processing tools do you have?  See you have PS do you have astronomy tools and Annies Atsro tools.  If you are going to process in PS then these will be invaluable to you.

Hope it helps - give me a shout if I you need any assistance will try to get back to you.

You actually have a nice bit of data there (more than in my example) so should be able to work into a nice image pretty soon.

Paddy

[PatrickGilliland]

PS: This is not the standard I expect of myself now and you should be aiming for better too.  Was taken about a month after my CCD acquisition but will return too shortly.

[PatrickGilliland]

Also get something for PS that can use fit files like fits liberator if you do not have, similar to PI (STF) or Maxim (DDP) for stretching the image better.  You can use a log stretch then rather than linear.

[peroni]

Also get something for PS that can use fit files like fits liberator if you do not have, similar to PI (STF) or Maxim (DDP) for stretching the image better. You can use a log stretch then rather than linear.

Thanks for the tips Paddy. I'll post another attempt later on. [emoji12]

[perfrej]

High sub numbers really make a difference. My Melotte 15 uses over 60 subs per filter, and while the diminishing return principle does apply, there is no substitute for more data. With "tall stacks", processing becomes more of a "flavour" choice than a "extract" work-load.

If I load the Ha stack and just click PI's auto-stretch I end up with this, which is virtually noise free when properly stretched and inserted into a Hubble:

So, wait it out, gather more data (I know, difficult given weather) and be patient. 

All the best,

Per

[peroni]

I definitely plan to spend time on this target gathering more data. 2.5 hours last night for my first session was OK. I'll probably grab some Oiii on the next session then switch back to Ha.

This image will be a long haul.

I'll try to remember not to be to heavy handed on the stretches. It might take me a while as with DSLR I had to stretch heavy to see things.

[perfrej]

Ah, I missed the DSLR thing... Difficult!

/per

[peroni]

Ah, I missed the DSLR thing... Difficult!

/per

The images I posted in this thread were not taken using a DSLR. What I meant was I'm used to using a DSLR and processing DSLR images. This is my first CCD image taken and processed so I have a lot to learn 

[peroni]

How about this version then...

I downloaded the FITS liberator and followed this workflow:

Import DSS stack into fits liberator as autosave.fits file (32 bit)

Extend black and white points to cover full range

Hit auto scaling

Stretch function arcsinh

Scaled peak 100

Save and edit

In ps, convert to 16bit, 

Choose equalise histogram

job done! Although I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be that simple :-/

Again 10 frames and 1 frames compared side by side

 

[PatrickGilliland]

A lot better - lots more that could be done with it but data is also the key now.  Lots more subs will provide the detail.  As a rule of thumb I aim for a minimum of 3 hours but ideally 5 or more.  But I am on 1800 sec subs typically.  You will have to get used to/work out you system and when the SNR ration means more subs become less beneficial etc.

Yes it can be that simple though what you will find is that with all the tools now available you can get more from the data you have.  May not be stuff you wish to publish but you have enough data to start to learn with.  Contrast enhancements, high pass filter, smoothing sharpening etc all can add (or if used poorly subtract) from the quality of image.

You have the foundation in place now about learning your processing preferences.

If using PS have a look at the tools I mentioned - read up first as if no use to you no point spending.

Paddy

[peroni]

This is the best I can do currently. I've stacked the 10 lights with 50 bias, 50 flats, and 20 darks. Saved as a 32 bit TIFF, imported into PS and HDR converted. Stretched a couple of times using curves, then enhanced contrast and reduced noise using noel carboni PS tools.

I'll post again when I get more data.

10 frames with darks and 1 frame only comparison below:

 

[peroni]

3.5 hours OIII and 2.5 hours Ha

I stacked OIII and Ha independently then put them into PS using the clipping layer masks method.

OIII was green and blue, Ha was red channel

I flattened the layers and did a bit more tweaking in the single layer. Result below for comments please.

One problem I had was the OIII and Ha data was taken on different nights and didn't align exactly. I moved them around in PS to get them rotated/aligned but it was by eye. Is there another way to do this?

[Wailin]

Hi peroni,

I just got the Atik 460EX (today in fact!) and I have the Skywatcher ED80 with 0.85X focal reducer. Just wondering what adaptors did you use to attach it all to get the 55mm focus distance? I have the manual Atik filter wheel also.

Tony

[peroni]

Hi peroni,

I just got the Atik 460EX (today in fact!) and I have the Skywatcher ED80 with 0.85X focal reducer. Just wondering what adaptors did you use to attach it all to get the 55mm focus distance? I have the manual Atik filter wheel also.

Tony

Hi Tony

This thread has all the info you need. http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/232729-how-to-connect-atik-460ex-to-skywatcher-ed80-scope-with-fffr/

[Wailin]

Ah great, thanks!

[Ewan]

Peroni if using DSS to stack the subs try this method.

Load first batch into DSS, lets say the Ha files, ONLY register all the files first, DO NOT stack them at this time.

Once all files are registered select one file (I normally go for the highest scoring file), RIGHT click this file and select Use As A Reference Frame.

This will put a little star next to the file.

On the Stacking Results page make sure you select STANDARD MODE as the stacking option, then stack the files as they have already been registered.

Save the resulting stacked image as normal.

When this completes you want to do the O3 files.

Clear all the previous files ie the Ha data EXCEPT the reference file, darks etc, this is important as the reference file will be used again & has to stay in the list.

So you will now have ALL your O3 data files & 1 Ha file.

Now register ALL the files, once registered you have to UNTICK the little bow on the left of the REFERENCE file (if you don't DSS will stack all the O3 files & 1 Ha file)

Now DSS will stack the O3 files in relation to the Ha reference file.

Save this out when done.

Load these 2 files into PS as a stack if you wish, select Blend mode Lighten or just change the Opacity level to 50% to check the alignment of each stack, double check you are happy with it by using the ARROW keys to move 1 file up & right.

Depending on how you setup your gear from the previous imaging session or your ccd is not in the exact same position you will need to crop the frame slightly.

Hope this helps.

Hope this helps.