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IC410 from hybrid setup (and first light for SW 130PDS)


Epicycle

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Hi,

this one is a double experiment. Motivated by Rob's recents posts I've decided to get a 130PDS to have a fast medium focal length scope to use with my SXVR-H9.  Here is

my first (decent) image using the scope which consists of 18x20m subs with an Ha Astrodon 5nm filter. The scope was guided off axis using the SX minifilter wheel on an HEQ5.

The image uses OIII captured earlier with my Megrez 72 @ 4.8 and since this data is used just for colour, resolution is not lost (the 130PDS with the H9 is about 2" per pixel and the Megrez 3.8" so this is

a bit like "binning colour").  Registration and processing was done in Pixinsight.

I think I'm quite happy with the scope, which for the price is unbeatable. I have Rob (Uranium235) to thank for many tips and hints, but unfortunately my stars still don't look as good as his! I'm yet to find a reliable way of collimating

the scope, but the main issue is the focuser: the draw-tube gets too much into the light-path producing some darkening and distorting stars a bit (although flats will correct the darkening).

Also the 2 thumb screws produce some tilt which I'm hoping to fix with a third screw, but so far, it's been fun playing with it.

For more details on the image here is a link to Astrobin: get.jpg

Big: get.jpg

Comments and suggestions welcome, in particular if you are a SW 130PDS user or similar and you have some tips, please let me know!

cheers

Epicycle

post-25876-0-89669200-1394576445_thumb.j

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Looking good mate :) Though I dont see any evidence of star distortion in that image.

I know it may sound a bit drastic, but if you are using the Skywatcher coma corrector then you can can actually saw off the collar and file it back to the 2" barrel - then you can mount it inside the drawtube, which then means you have to rack the focuser out to get focus (my drawtube is now completely clear of the primary). But in doing the above you have to be consigned to the fact that you might wreck it slightly, youve just got to ensure no bits of metal get on the optics, and if it gets a bit hot - take a break and wait for it to cool.

The best route Ive found is to persue a completely threaded connection, look at all your bits - see if there is anything that can be put together to create a threaded connection. Failing that, you can try this to internally mount your corrector (and achieve threaded collimation):

http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p203_TS-Adapter-from-M54-to-T2---low-profile-for-Skywatcher-Crayford-focuser.html

One word of caution, the M54 thread on that is a bit short IMO - and it doesnt like repeated removal (the threads gave way after a few months, no longer deemed as safe). Oh, and you cannot use it for the MkIII Baader (not enough out travel). But either way, if you want to internally mount the SWCC - a hacksaw and elbow grease will be required! :)

But, the golden rule is:  If it aint broke....

Stars can be worked on with processing, the appearance of medium to large stars can be reduced by using a layer mask - but you have to take time to remove the nebula with an eraser on the mask layer.

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Very nice image, the tadpoles have good resolution & stand out very clearly,

Thanks Martin!

Looking good mate :) Though I dont see any evidence of star distortion in that image.

I know it may sound a bit drastic, but if you are using the Skywatcher coma corrector then you can can actually saw off the collar and file it back to the 2" barrel - then you can mount it inside the drawtube, which then means you have to rack the focuser out to get focus (my drawtube is now completely clear of the primary). But in doing the above you have to be consigned to the fact that you might wreck it slightly, youve just got to ensure no bits of metal get on the optics, and if it gets a bit hot - take a break and wait for it to cool.

The best route Ive found is to persue a completely threaded connection, look at all your bits - see if there is anything that can be put together to create a threaded connection. Failing that, you can try this to internally mount your corrector (and achieve threaded collimation):

http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p203_TS-Adapter-from-M54-to-T2---low-profile-for-Skywatcher-Crayford-focuser.html

One word of caution, the M54 thread on that is a bit short IMO - and it doesnt like repeated removal (the threads gave way after a few months, no longer deemed as safe). Oh, and you cannot use it for the MkIII Baader (not enough out travel). But either way, if you want to internally mount the SWCC - a hacksaw and elbow grease will be required! :)

But, the golden rule is:  If it aint broke....

Stars can be worked on with processing, the appearance of medium to large stars can be reduced by using a layer mask - but you have to take time to remove the nebula with an eraser on the mask layer.

Thanks Rob. If you zoom in you'll see that stars still don't look perfect, but I can live with it... I have the Baader MPCCIII and not the skywatcher, so I guess I'll continue a little more

with the way things are at the moment (I got the third screw already, so I should have a squared camera...)

cheers

E.

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