1100D Debayer

[Gina]

That's a great result   Very encouraging, I might try that myself  bit later.  I think I'll get my 450D setup going first and see how that performs.  The extra ISO range of the 1100D would be very useful

[russellhq]

A short update:

I bought a faulty 1100D to replace my existing sensor that's showing the couple of dead rows. So I though it might help if I took a video of the glass removal process I use, so here it is:

Let me know what you think.

[TCWORLD]

Brave soul. I'd never dare take a blowtorch to any bit of my camera!

[Luis Campos]

Hi Russel!

That's cool...or should I say hot?

Is that sensor still alive? I've read somewere that the sensors can take something like 150cº with no damage so I guess it's ok

Congrats on your adventure, hope all goes well for you with debayer, I know I love my 350d and 450D working with a 7Nm Ha filter

Cheers,

Luís

[tonedeaf]

woohaaa...

fine solution for the removal of the coverglas

cheers for that...

[Baffa]

I bet these sensors can take a peak well over 200C - after all, most of these things are soldered in an oven, need some 220'ish just to melt the solder. There is a few things that you might want to consider heating things like this.

Might be a good idea to bake the component for a long time to ensure there is no trapped moisture, it needs to be really low. I work with surface mounting at work and we must all the time make sure things is dry or things might go POP! in the oven, or worse, cause a latent fault in one of the components.

ESD, extremly hard to control but, no plastics, fabrics other than cotton. Things need to be earthed, a wristband is probably a must have. I have no real experience with the interiors of canon cameras, but looking at some pictures I can clearly see some delicate components that only can take around 50V before risk being damaged. By comparison, by just walking around on a wooden floor with everyday clothes will charge you with some 500-1000V or similiar, you might not even feel anything when it's discharging.

[russellhq]

Hi Russel!

That's cool...or should I say hot?

Is that sensor still alive? I've read somewere that the sensors can take something like 150cº with no damage so I guess it's ok

Congrats on your adventure, hope all goes well for you with debayer, I know I love my 350d and 450D working with a 7Nm Ha filter

Cheers,

Luís

Yeah, sensor is still alive. This is the second sensor I have done this 2 and both worked after heating.

[russellhq]

Thanks to Ray for sending me a piece of melamine; this allowed me to get started with debayering the second sensor. This time I've decided to do half the sensor for comparison tests.

Here's a shot of the first pass (no cropping):

The Melamine scrapes well but it's difficult to get rid of all the residue, as you can see from the image. It also lets you get nice and close to the edge as it's a more controlled scrape.

To minimise the chances of scratching the sensor, when scraping I only scrap on the forward stroke and then lift off. This way I'm not scrubbing the sensor.

[libraryman]

That is looking good Russ, you have indeed managed to get quite close to the edge and the Melamine looks effective, in all the (scraping) attempts that i have seen, there appears some difficulty in removing the residue.

Perhaps a final rub with the scratch 20  would remove it?

The question i guess, is; how would you rate the Melamine against the other materials that you have tried,  would you consider the melamine to be better or equal?

Ray

[russellhq]

That is looking good Russ, you have indeed managed to get quite close to the edge and the Melamine looks effective, in all the (scraping) attempts that i have seen, there appears some difficulty in removing the residue.

Perhaps a final rub with the scratch 20  would remove it?

The question i guess, is; how would you rate the Melamine against the other materials that you have tried,  would you consider the melamine to be better or equal?

Ray

Melamine works much better than all the other scrapers I tried. It takes little effort to scrape off the colour filter but like other scrapers it leaves a residue. I'm still struggling to get a wide scraping blade though. I can only scrape about 1mm width at a time which makes it very tricky to get a good overlap between scrapes which is probably exacerbating the residue problem.

I'm trying to avoid using the polish for now. It works well but it does make a mess and cut's into the silicon.

[libraryman]

Sounds good Russ, when you say that you can only get 1mm width have you tried to dress the edge to give you perhaps 3/4mm?

having tried this myself, i have to acknowledge that it's not easy to get the edge level, if it was level then i suspect that the residue would be easier to remove!!

The other option is to apply some isopropyl alcohol from the local chemist, this may well remove the residue? 

Ray

[russellhq]

Sounds good Russ, when you say that you can only get 1mm width have you tried to dress the edge to give you perhaps 3/4mm?

having tried this myself, i have to acknowledge that it's not easy to get the edge level, if it was level then i suspect that the residue would be easier to remove!!

The other option is to apply some isopropyl alcohol from the local chemist, this may well remove the residue? 

Ray

Thanks Ray. I've tried dressing the edge, but can't get it better than 1mm. Like you say, it's not easy getting it level. Have you got any tips on how to do that?

Here are some before and after shots of an attempt to clean up the sensor. I tried using sensor cleaning solution and clay bar (used to clean up car paint work without scratching).

Before:

After:

[libraryman]

Well it's looking better isn't it? with respect to the width; you should be able to file the edge to increase it, the problem is what type of file you use, i would suggest a riffler!

they come in very smooth options and are quite good for this type of work and should enable you to get a flat edge,  the other method i used was an oil stone if you have one.

i steered away from using wet or dry paper because of the risk of carborundum getting embedded into the edge of the melamine.

other than that, i have no ideas, but good luck to you, i am waiting for my 450D to arrive and i start my attempt next week!!!

Ray

[russellhq]

Something like this?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p24550

I've done some more cleaning but it's proving tricky to get the edges cleaned up nicely.

Here's another flat:

And here is the same flat but with levels adjusted:

Good luck with your 450D. Hope it goes well for you.

[libraryman]

Hi Russ yes those are rifflers, how's it going, I have dismantled my 450d and ready to start

Ray

[russellhq]

Hi Ray, I'm on hold at the moment. I've decided to stop using the clay to remove the residue as it's left 1 or 2 scratches in the surface that I'm not comfortable with. I may have to revert to using the car polish for clean-up, as that seems the only other option to using a rotary type device with felt or silicone heads.

Also, I've actually decided to try and cool the sensor down. So I've got some parts on order and hopefully give something a go this weekend.

Another thing I'm going to try is baking the old sensor in the oven with the glass cover on top and see what temp the epoxy melts at. That should provide some useful data.

Will be interested to see how you get on with the 450D. Keep us posted.

[libraryman]

We are very much following the same road, I have taken out the sensor and I plan to cold finger it, serial options are available to cold finger and i don't know which route to follow yet!

Ray