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Whats wrong with my Flats?


Keener_7

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Was trying to take some flats for the first time last night but didn't have much luck. I was using the white laptop screen method. When I would try and use Av mode on my cannon 1000D the camera would take 8sec exposures and the histogram  would be all the way to the left. Then I tried to use manual mode, when I manged to get the histogram about 1/3 of the way my flats all had lines running through them. 

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I tried 2 different exposure times where the histogram would be in the correct location and always the the lines. Could it be the shutter moving across the image or is the exposure time somehow matching the refresh rate of my computer screen? So any ideas on what is causing this or how to correct it? 

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when you take flats put the camera in AV mode and use the same iso as when you was imaging HTH

Dan

I tried using Av mode. For some reason when I would do this the camera would take an 8sec exposure and the the image would be completely blown out. Not sure what was happening there.

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Yes, I had it very close to the scope held up against the dew shield. I just did a quick test point at the sky, ( its evening here and clear) and my flats seemed to come out fine! I also tried again with the laptop screen and got the same result. I really think the camera is catching the refresh rate of the laptop screen, looks like taking flats that way may not be an option for me.

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What I did with flats using a computer monitor was to set the camera's ISO to the lowest setting which increases the exposure time. This helps to eliminate shearing problems caused by display refresh. Used AV mode with +1 EV to get the histogram above 1/2 way mark.

Some monitors are not evenly illuminated though (invisible to the naked eye), so this may not work.

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Oh?!?!

I didn't know!!! I can use other ISO's for Flats??!! Great!!

I'm not sayng you can but I can't see why you shouldn't! I don't use DSLRs but as far as I can see the only thing you are trying to get is a brightness value per pixel. You do need to calibrate flats by subtracting a bias (or rather a master bias made of a couple of dozen average combined.) You could shoot dedicated darks for your flats but they will do nothing that a bias won't do and you only need one bias. Now, how do bias frames work on DSLRs? Do they vary with ISO setting? If so then the bias need to be taken at the same ISO as the flat. Someone will know.

Olly

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