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The Swan (NB) and Milky Way core


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Hi all.

For quite some time I wondered what could I capture with my Atik 383L mono camera using a normal DSLR objetive (Tamron 18-200 in this case), so I built myself an adaptor that would allow me to hook up the objective to the filter wheel and reach the required 44mm backfocus.

Off I went with my imaging mate (who acted as "automatic" focuser) to try out this setup and shot at Cygnus in narrow band (Ha and Oiii). It as a rather bad night in terms of seeing, quite humid and with little time as we knew clouds would roll in eventually. So, for the trial, we went bin2x2 to keep exposures short. It was just a trial, after all.

As expected, clouds rolled in but we did manage to take 7 subs of each filter of 600s duration each, and this is what we got.

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I must admit I was fairly surprised!. You can see it at full resolution here (bin2, so it doesn't get all that much bigger). I will have to reshoot this one at bin1 sometime!

The second image is of the core of the Milky Way in LRGB (8x600s in luminance bin1, 6x250s in each RGB bin2) just over a week ago. I had to crop quite a bit the left side of the image due to trees and horizon getting in the way.

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Not much one can do to those stars in the corners...

Full resolution here.

I hope you enjoy them!.

Dan.

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Fantastic widefield. How did you put together an adapter from the lens to the CCD with the correct back spacing that gave you enough space for a filter wheel?

I first figured out the required extra distance to reach the 44mm backfocus, which I think was 5mm. Then I picked up aluminum plates of 2 and 3mm, as well as the thin metal pressure adjustment ring (or whatever its called) from an old EOS 20D. I had to machine all the parts for them to accept a canon lens as well as to be able to fit the thin metal ring inside the two aluminum plates. Get the holes in the right places to screw tha adaptor to the filterwheel and that was it.

About all I have to do all this is a small drill press, a fretsaw (yes, I did most cutting of aluminum with this) and some dremmel bits, so it all was fairly complicated. Took me a whole weekend...

There are adaptors to get just this for the 383L, using a single filter box but, considering their price, I decided to build it myself with scraps I already had lying about and still use a filterwheel. The cost was just a weekend of fun (right until I ask for a spare part of that thin metal ring to put back into the EOS 20D)

Fantastic! I take it you were imaging at 18mm?

Somewhere between 18 and 35mm, maybe around twenty-something, can´t really say which. Since there is no communication between the camera body and lens, the information is not recorded.

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