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Gluing power cable in place?


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I power my Celestron Nexstar 127 SLT from the mains using a power cable. However, the power cable jack and and the socket on the mount are poorly designed, because the slightest tension on the cable (e.g., when slewing) will cause the jack to work loose a bit, breaking the electric connection, which means I then have to go through the alignment process all over again, and there is a good chance that any go to will abort when the power is lost. I don't use batteries as a back up, because when I tried this I ended up draining the batteries very quickly as I did not realise I was no longer on mains power once the power cable jack had worked loose again. In short, this is really beginning to annoy me.

I guess the simplest solution would be to glue the jack into the socket; I've already tried blu-tack, but it is not strong enough. Is there any particular glue I should use, bearing in mind it must not act as an electrical insulator? I thought I would try some all-purpose adhesive I have already.

And then I could put a inline connector into the cable so I can easily disconnect the cable from the power supply, but I am not sure what type of connector to get.

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The mount looks similar to the Skywatcher AZ GOTO which needs a linger pin on the power lead to prevent the same problem you appear to be having. I would try a longer plug before gluing anything to see if that helps.

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Loose conections on Go-To Celestron scopes really seems to be a widespread problem. From what i have read, its the pins on the jack on the AZ mount that cause this problem.

I have a Celestron 8SE and have to say that i have never suffered a power failure while slewing.

What about a self adhesive cable clip to hold it so the gravity of the cable doesn't work it loose?

I think this will work. If you stick the cable to the mount with blu-tac or something similar and leave enough play on the power cable to allow the scope to slew in any direction then the problem may be solved.

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Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Maybe it is the wrong sized jack, although the cable is advertised for this mount. But the jack is just a push fitting, and does not require much force to work slightly loose, sufficient to break the power. The socket is on the mount and the whole mount rotates when slewing, which means it drags the cable round with it. This means it is very easy for the jack to work loose. I may try a longer jack.

I like the adhesive cable clip idea - I am going to have a look tomorrow in the local DIY shops to see if there is anything suitable. I am not sure it will be sufficient though; I have a feeling that just the weight of the extra cable when it plays out as the mount is rotating is enough to break the connection. I need to look at it agan in daylight. Maybe duct taping the jack in place would work?

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I would be tempted to clamp or somehow cable-tie the cable a few inches from the plug to the same part of the mount that carries the power socket, leaving the plug itself under no tension. I'd say it's generally good practice to arrange for plugs to be in a position where they can't be put under tension.

James

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I solved a similar problem on my EQ6. I got some self stick velcro strips and folded a 1" piece of 'loop' over the power cable very near the end, and stuck a 1" piece of 'hook' on the mount just above the port. The velcro keeps just enough tension on the plug to keep a solid connection and there is no pulling on the plug as the mount slews.

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I would be tempted to clamp or somehow cable-tie the cable a few inches from the plug to the same part of the mount that carries the power socket, leaving the plug itself under no tension. I'd say it's generally good practice to arrange for plugs to be in a position where they can't be put under tension.

James

Bang on. That will solve any loose connection that may exist.

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The basic problem that these DC connectors are built down to a price, pennies, to a vague specification, interpreted differently by different manufacturers.

I'm not picking on any particular mount type, or manufacturer. Just the choice of connector.

Connection problems are frequently reported.

The DC connectors have no physical lock or latch.

The metal spring inside to hold contact pressure is often susceptible to weakening.

Contact plating is inconsistent.

But when we are all looking to pay a few £££ less, the manufactuers have to cut corners.

A far better solution (after purchase) is to solder wires inside the mount and take them out to a more reliable connector.

There does not seem to be an astro accepted standard for a decent power connector.

A good example though used by some are the XLR series connectors.

These have a long history of stage use and surviving abuse.

They are available in various combinations of pins, sockets and number of poles for easy correct assembly in the dark.

Different XLR connectors can be used for power, dew heaters, USB devices, etc.

They are more than able to handle the power and they have latches.

Just my take on the (in my view) wrong connectors fitted by the big names.

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Hi Shellshock, I have the same scope and I have made a little velcro strap that fits all the way around the mount just above where the power socket is and have found that if you clamp the power lead a couple of inches above the power socket ( I have the connector which is an elbow shape (90 degrees)) it holds it in place (as said before - these connectors are not the best - but the halfway round the velcro strap I have have a piece of elastic,this tensions the cable well enough for a good nights viewing with no power failures. I have also had to tape the elbow to the connector - this wasn't a good fit either - just 2 pins going into 2 holes - really loose fitting - here I used some very strong tape not sure what sort it is but its a very wide black shiny reel and has "Ticki Tape" on the inside of the cardboard inner similar to this :-

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c2e2fc079

Its really strong - you may find it locally.

Just another point - if your using the standard mount - be careful - I broke the centre plastic "spreaders" on mine and have replaced them with chain - not the best but works fine -I was a little heavy handed when spreading the legs of the tripod - they're very fragile. Hope that helps and welcome to the SGL. Paul.

IMAG0004_zps72f90eef.jpg

Heres a quick pic (should have just put this up in the first place.)

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Thanks everybody for showing me the error of my ways, and keeping me away from the glue pot! I have also become a lot tidier; I have bought some cable ties to tie the power cable to one of the tripod legs, which takes most of the weight off the plug. I have also taken up Northern Soul man's suggestion in tying the cable to the mount above the power socket. I can now get a full rotation of the mount without the power disconnecting. Fingers crossed that this will work in the wild. (see attached picture for details).

post-27215-0-76391600-1357244243_thumb.j

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Nice 1 Shellshock - "its not the error of your ways" its just a little help and advice that - on here - there's bucket loads of it. If at anytime your a little unsure about something - always fire the lappy up and pop on here.

Once you get to grips with the scope and finding your way around the sky, the scope will come into its own - as a starter scope I think these Maksutovs are really hard to beat - I've owned a lot of scopes over the years from the Celestron 127 I have now to an 8" Newtonian - then an 8" SCT - then a 12" dob, and now the 11" SCT - I must say that the 127 is an amazing scope for its size - really performs well on the Moon and Planets - having a focal length of nearly F12, the Moon and Planets are great - even on the brighter Messier objects its a very capable scope - so enjoy and keep us posted on the nights you have under the stars (if these clouds ever move on !!!). thanks for the update Shellshock and regards Paul.

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